Hi guys I am wanting to build a 351w with 300 to 400 horse power. I would like to try to get to the high 300 or even over 400. I wont to know if there is a sight or even if any one knows what components I could but in the motor to get the horses I want. I have been trying to surf the web for days and no help. The motor is going in a 81 f-150 4x4 it has a straight six in the truck now yes it is going to be a every day driver and I also want to enter it in the county fair truck pulls. I dont want to build a big block I have a 351w now out of a truck and I want to build that motor so if anyone has info please help me out. thanks one more thing I would like to stay under 3000 dollars if i could.

 

Your prior post:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...nd-winsor.html

 

AFR heads! stock bottom end, mild cam, and an intake to keep up with the air flow. $3000 is a good start.lol

 

Here's a combo for you.

Rebuilt bottom end with I-beam rods, new bearings, and -80cc pistons. The rods are no more expensive than having ARP bolts added to the stock rods and they're WAY stronger. This eliminates the weak link in the bottom end.
Crane 523921 cam
Dart Iron Eagle cylinder heads, 2.02/1.60 valves, 62cc chamber
Eddy Vic intake and 650cfm carb.
1.5" longtube headers and mufflers.
393HP and 405ft/lbs TQ.

 

thanx would it change if I wanted to use roller lifters and stuff like that

 

The cam grind number would change but the power curves wouldn't change much if any. If you have a roller motor(F4TE casting number) with lifters and spider assembly then sure..use it, but if not I say don't bother. The link-bar lifters necessary for the early blocks are stupid expensive($350-500), and it really won't make much performance difference over a flat tappet cam.

 

what year did they but roller blocks in the f-150. I also like the fast revs you get out of a roller engine too.BTW are timing gears worth the money or not?

 

Roller blocks started in '94, that's what the F4 in the casting number stands for. Timing gears are good but hardly necessary on a roller motor since the biggest source of friction has been removed. It'll make the motor a bit more bulletproof, and there are silent versions available too, so you can have the advantages without the noise if you so desire.

 

ok if i get the engine out of a 94 do I have to worry about all the emissions that come with or do I just have to worry about the emissions crap that is on it now?

 

hey conanski could you but the cinfiguration on your dyno and show me what it says. 30 over block forged flat top pistons 10,5:1 compression stock crank stock rods comp cam extreme energy 262 Hydrraulic flat top cam comp cams roller rockersgt-40p heads with 1.94/1.62 vavles eldelbrock performer rpm intake with speed demon 750cfm carb MSD ignition and 1 5/8" long tube headers

 

who makes the best flat top pistons for the buck and whats better floating pin or pressed.

 

You're not using the EFI system so you don't care about the emissions stuff either.

 

I guess you couldnt give me a dynoe reading

 

The Hot Rod article I told you about has 3 or 4 dyno charts for a 351w, and they tell you all the parts they used. It might be an EFI motor. But, their mods alone are close to $3000, so the idea of a 400 horse 351w for $3000 is going to require a lot of your own work. Since I doubt you can cast and machine heads, think more like 300 horse for your budget.

Do you have smog inspections? Usually, your minimum compliance is the year of the vehicle. Some require vehicle or engine, whichever is newer. Clear that up before you spend any money.

http://www.dep.state.pa.us/aq_apps/emissions/test.htm

 

Patience.......