I'm trying to remove my old, and very rusted rear brake drums on this truck. They won't budge. I think that the wheel cylinder has blown, (the small reservoir in the master cylinder is low). I suspect that I need to back the shoes off via the rear plate access opening but my question is:

Do I need to remove the six bolts on the center hub plate as well to remove this drum? (this plate is very rusted too)

Thank you

(sorry for posting on this thread, I guess this should be on the 1967-72 thread :-( )

 

BFH Beat the heck out of it with a big rubber mallet.

 

Agreed......heat them 'till they are tinging and popping and beeat them silly. Once they are off, time for a good wire brushing, and maybe even a taste of tremclad (rust paint).

 

wd 40 soak it, beat it with the biggest hammer youve got. should be able to slip the drum over the studs.

i broke a 4lb, and bought a 12lb sledge, the drums came off in pieces

have very sturdy support, ya don't wanna drop it

 

My 66 was tough to get over the outer hub plate. I sanded the nicks off the plate and the id of the drum and it was a tight fit but came off. I finally jacked the rear wheels up and put the truck in gear and used a belt sander with medium paper and sanded all the rust and dings off. The 66 has two screws that hold the drum to the axle flange. Does yours?

 

I have had to deal with mine...also a real pain...I sanded the edge of the axle clean as a whistle and knocked the shap edges down and worked the drum in and out on the hub itself thus knocking some of the rust and crud from the hub as well as the drum...it takes a good bit of wriggling to get it off but it will come off w/o having to remove the axle. As for getting the shoes to close in away from the drum...if you know positively its a blown cylinder, I would see if the star wheel will back off easily or not...if not I would crack the bleeder screw and try to get in there with what you can and shove the top edges of the shoes inward which should give you enough room to work it off the shoes and off the truck.


Hope this helps...

- cs65

 

To answer 1966CCCamperspecial and camperspecial65,
1.) Mine is a '68, sorry I posted on the wrong thread but no, no screws that appear to hold the drum to the axle flange.

2.) I'm not positive that it is the wheel cylinder but when things went awry, the brake pedal went almost to the floor, the fluid in the smaller chamber of the Master cylinder was very low and there was a small amount of fluid behind the left rear wheel so I'm assuming that the wheel cylinder is blown...

As no one has addressed the question of the eight bolt axle hub, I'm assuming that I don't need to remove this to get drum off.

Thanks to everyone who has taken time to reply to my question, I appreciate the help!

 

You don't need to remove the studs if that's what you're asking. It's just a tight fit and probably used to being there. It took me a while to get mine off even after having them off recently. What part of our snowy state are you in? Could help if the weather wasn't so rediculous.
Good luck
Rob

 

What Camper Special is this? The F250's use different brakes than an F100.

The drum removal is not the same.

 

looks like it's a 250 Bill not sure of the rear end though. Oh Yea he said there were 8 lugs.

 

capt mike if you are talking about the bolts that hold the end cap on the end of the hub. tha under ideal conditions does not have to come off. In previous hub I wasnt very clear but that is the outer diameter I sanded the nicks off with belt sander and wheel turning.

ED

 

You might want to consider loosening the brake adjuster up until it is real loose or falls out of place. Sometimes the shoes will wear into the drum leaving a ridge on the drum. Of course then when you pull on the drum you are also pulling on the shoes. If you loosen the adjuster enough they will collapse in enough to clear the ridge on the drum.

ED

 

Just a thought...I've seen guys trying to remove rear drums with the parking brake set.

Make sure it has fully released.

 

Cap'n

I soaked and beat on my '66 F250 C/S rears for several days until someone told me I had to pull the axle shaft to remove the drum. I don't know if it was completely necessary, but with the shaft out, the drum came right off. It looked like the drum and the hub riser were one piece, not sure.

Rich

 

RICH

The first time I did the brakes on my 66 camper special I took th axles out too. But it is nit necessary. As you know when you pull the drum off an dtry to slip it over the end cap on the hub it doesn't wanto come off. That is why I jacked the rearend up and used a 3/4" air belt sander to take the dings and rust off the end caps then the drum cam off. I am thinking of getting another set of end caps and having them machined down .010 so I won't have that problem any more. It is a lot easier, faster and less mess than pulling the axles.

ED