This is my first post, and I would just like to say that I really appreciate how everyone on this site is so helpful. I love my truck but I can’t afford to always have Ford rape my pockets, especially at Christmas time.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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Anyhow I have a 2000 7.3 and the #8 injector has failed. Or at least that’s what the service advisor believes. He said it could be the harness or the injector, but everything I read about tells me that it’s the injector. I decided to not have Ford do the work and I was going to get a remanufactured injector but I was wondering if I should replace all of the injectors? I have 170K on the truck and I don’t want to have to go in twice. I found the injectors from injectorwhse.com and they are 149.00 each.<o></o>
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Your comments are appreciated.<o></o>
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Thanks<o></o>
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Mike <o></o>

 

Thread moved to the 7.3 forum - Good luck

And WELCOME to FTE!

 

Do you have light? (code) This is the place to come with questions for sure. Might want to toss up some symptoms. I wouldn't replace all the injectors. I seen on ebay a place in Florida that sell #8 reman ll's for $99. Fairly easy to replace with some hours and this forum. Harnesses problems are also common, some have just came partially unplugged inside the valve cover. Is it running rough?

 

What exactly makes you think the #8 injector has failed? Depending on your answer, there may not be anything wrong with the injector. I've got over 276k miles on my stock injectors, so I don't see any reason to replace all the injectors at the low mileage you have.

Tell us more about whatever issue you're having and we can give you more input than the computer the Ford tech used. If you know what tests the Ford tech did, or any trouble codes he came up with, include those too. They would be helpful. Also let us know if you've had the CPS recall done to your truck. That's been known to cause issues on the #8 cylinder.

Welcome to FTE.

 

Another thing would be to have the Cylinder contribution tests, that would help too wouldnt it Chris??
I agree, there may not be anything wrong, or maybe just the dreaded Knock knock knock at idle??

 

Hope you guys had a good holiday, I just got back from visiting family in Virginia. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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Anyhow, the Ford service department is telling me that the problem is with the injector or the harness and that they would not know for sure until they looked further into it. I was doing about 10mph after a red light and it started to run real rough, and the power was gone. I'm going to pull the valve cover and see if I can wiggle the harness and get a good result. <o></o>
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I’ll let you know what I find.<o></o>

 

Hope you guys had a good holiday, I just got back from visiting family in Virginia. fficeffice" /><O></O>
<O></O>
Anyhow, the Ford service department is telling me that the problem is with the injector or the harness and that they would not know for sure until they looked further into it. I was doing about 10mph after a red light and it started to run real rough, and the power was gone. I'm going to pull the valve cover and see if I can wiggle the harness and get a good result. <O></O>
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I’ll let you know what I find.<O></O>

 

Ask the dealer what codes they pulled to make them think it's the injector or wiring. Have you had the CPS recall done? That can cause a contribution fault on the #8 cylinder. If the truck was not acting up when the dealer looked at it, they will just be looking at whatever codes are stored (starting to sound like a P1316 code).

If you want to check out the wiring yourself, here's a link to a thread where the wiring was the issue. It will help you understand what you're looking for. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6884198

 

Does anyone know how to test the electrical portion of the injector. For example, would I be able to put a volt meter probe on the injector wire and verify that it is getting power.

 

You can test the wiring between outside valve cover connection and the injector solenoid with an ohm meter. That test is described in the link above. To test power from the IDM to the injector, you will need an oscilloscope capable of reading the injector pulse in milliseconds.

 

Quick update. I removed the valve cover and checked all the connections, but it's still running rough. I will break out the old ocilliscope and see if I can remember how to use it and test the signal to the injector. By the way, I did replace the CPS about a year ago and of course, now they have a recall on it. I wonder if I can get my money back? 80$

 

when they did my CPS recall they said they would get me my 150 bucks back but I would need a recipt. so if you have a recipt, I'd say you are good

 

remans,remans id really stay away from them just go new!my 2 cents LOL

 

Anybody know where I can find the engine block serial number on a 2000 7.3? And if I replace #8 injector and the one currently installed is not the LL version and i replace it with the LL, will I have to get any other modification to the computer program? Or should I just stick with the standard injector. I don't know what cackle sounds like but my engine sounded pretty good until the injector failed. I dont see any difference in the number on the injector. I think it's the same as all the others but I can only see the number on the top of the injector right now.


Thanks

Mike