Hi guys i just bought a 77 highboy its got an 8ball on the transfer case shifter and i dont know where the positions are can anyone help? its got a 351m and a manual tranny. id like to do the fluid in the tranny and transfer case too can you also tell me what to use? and any idea about headlights burning out both the lights burnt out and wont work at all do i need a voltage regulator or somthing?

thankjs for your help guys. cheers.

 

The sequence is ........ 4L-N-2H-4H. (4L being all the forward)

Others might chime in on what to use in the transfer case. I used a synthetic 80-90w I think (from my brothers mechanic shop, he said it was expensive anyway). But, I believe any standard 80-90w would work.

The headlights may lie in the switch being bad. Have you replaced the lights just to make sure and if you have, do they work for a bit and then burn out, or not work at all?

 

Sometimes the floor high beam switch goes bad. Turn on the lights, click the switch on the floor several times. They might just surprise you and start working again. Then check if your marker lights work, if they work, that means you at least have power going to the switch. If no marker lights, check your fuses, etc etc. Do a search for alvin in az, he does alot of posts on diagnosing electrical problems.

 

My factory shop manual says to use SAE 50 in both the trans and Tcase. Both shift smoothly, even when it is colder. The only stuff I could find locally was Valvoline Racing. It isn't as cheap as regular 90W, but I am glad I did it.

 

thanks for your reply fellas much appreciated !

 

Cool. :)

50 weight motor oil is the same viscosity as 90 weight gear oil.
But is it 10W 50 motor oil that is the same as 80W 90?
Or is it 15W 50? :/
I don't remember, didn't think the difference was important. ;)
But the newer stuff I see is 75W 90 gear oil anyway. ;)
Ford sez you can use either one, the motor oil or the gear oil.
I use gear oil. YMMV :)
I hear some of the newer manuals uses ATF tho.
Thin for fuel savings I'd guess.

Alvin in AZ

 

Beavis' dimmer switch idea sure sounded like a good one to me! :)

BTDT on a InterTrashional Eagle one time.
(is that what they call their big rig?)

Was fixin to wire in a spare I have for my pickup but the switch was
different inside so they shipped one to me the next day and installed
it for them. :)

The replacement comes with a 2 foot pig tail and connector.

I had used a meter and explained the situation to trucking company's
electrician and he felt confident to ship me the part instead of having to
pay an outsider to replace it.

All because I had a meter! LOL :)

Man, a meter can make you look and sound like you know what you are
doing. No kidding on that. Worked for me. :)

The idea was to splice my switch in and they could change it out and give
me back my switch but the switch wouldn't work. Wanted to wire up the
low beams, but that's a big fine if she (ex-GF) got stopped and inspected.

Anyway... a cheap analog meter will be cheaper than throwing parts at the
problem and the meter will still be good for more problem solving later.

AutoZone.com | Shopping | Accessories | Product Detail - Actron Pocket Electrical Tester

Butthead in AZ

 

I run sythetic 80w-90 weight in my 203 transfer case for a lot of years. Never had any problem. Have to let it warm up good before I can go anywhere though. Got down to -35F here one night last month. Lots of warm up time that night.

 

The roof marker lights do still work, i went down turned em on and clicked the dimmer a bunch but nothin happened, im thinking that once i sell my 98 ill just get the lights re wired, the wiring in there is pretty bad hard to make heads or tails its so messy, i do plan on making this truck my dd once i sell my newish one things i need to do are 1 headlights
2 fix vacum leak so i can
stop maybee get a
new booster or switch
it to manual breaks
3 get a rear bumper
4 get fuel sender hooked
up
5 get dash lights in apparently the guy who had it before blew them all somehow.

 

[quote=Alvin in AZ;7116888]Beavis' dimmer switch idea sure sounded like a good one to me!

I had used a meter and explained the situation to trucking company's
electrician and he felt confident to ship me the part instead of having to
pay an outsider to replace it.

All because I had a meter! LOL

Man, a meter can make you look and sound like you know what you are
doing. No kidding on that. Worked for me.
quote]


Knowing what you're doing helps a lot too Alvin. The meter just proved it.

I got a multi-meter, wonder who I can fool.


Just kidden, I don't roll like that.

 

ACES!!!!! on the gear location and the gear lube used. cept i use just plain 80w 90 gear lube( cause im cheap ) 80/90 is the recomended lube in the t-case,tranny, front and rear.

From Chiltons Manual:

Transmission:

all manual = 85w/90 gear oil
c4 = type f
c5 = type h
c6 = 1976 Type f ; 77-86 dexron II
AOD dexron II ATF

Transfercase:

dana 21: SAE 50W motor oil
NP203: Below 32 degrees F = SAE 30W, above 30 degrees F = 50W engine oil
NP205: 1976-1977 = SAE 50W engine oil; 1978 and later = SAE 90W gear oil
NP208 = Dexron II ATF
Borg-Warner1345 = dexron II ATF

front and rear ends:

SAE 80w or SAE 90 w gear oil (add limmited slip additive if you have a limited slip diff, if its not includes in the gear oil)

 

Did you ever figure out the t-case.
There are three options here.
Two are covered above with regards to the fluid used, but as far as the shift pattern is concerned, you have to determine whether or not you have a 203 or a 205.
If you have a 205, then you have good information.
If you have a 203, then you need a different pattern. To really stir the pot, it is posible that you have a 203 converted to part time.
If this is the case, then you have to be reminded to run the correct oil, too think may not work so well, and will burn up a part time 203 in a hurry. You should also know to engage the hubs once in a while, or engage the front output (engage 4wd) for a few miles to fill the fluid reservior in the output section of the case.
See since the chain no longer spins after the conversion, the rear output lubrication reservior will run dry and will not lube the output bearings. This will kill a converted 203 in a "New York Minute".
Verify which case you have.

 

while trying to find #s on the t case i found a C11415 and below that a 2
2

i found a # plate close to the rear output shaft but its badly rusted and hard to read from what i can see it looks like X1817 i think im gonna go at it with a rag and some lighter fluid and see if i can make it more legible

 

the tcase also has a P A on it with a symbol in between the letters

 

Just take a pic of the output shaft and housing. I will tell you within a few seconds of viewing it.
The numbers will not tell you whether it has been converted either, so we will have to do a little more investigating.
First determine whether or not you have a 203 or a 205.