Wow...this has turned into a job...
Got a (I guess) Dana 60 mono front on my 4x4 dump bed. I finally got the right 4 pronged socket to remove the axle nuts holding the hub (The outer was real tight) I got the hub off, and I can't get the bolts out that hold the rotor to the hub. A regular hub has the studs pressed in. This extended hub appears to have bolts holding the rotor to the hub. (an 1/8 inch is protruding from the hub, and appears to be threaded) Are these pressed in as well, or threaded? Any advice /help appreciated.

 

im curious about this as well snow started falling out here today pretty good.and when i put my truck into four wheel it squalls bad so im just gonna redo the front end while im in there.somebody will chime in but i wanna say they are pressed ill check my book when i get off work.

 

If its like the ones we have at work, You take the bolts out inside of the back of the rotor with an impact, (Or hand ratchet if you perfer). More than likely they will be super super tight. I had to use the 3/4 impact at work to get them loose on a truck. There a bear to get loose. I haven't taken mine off yet but I have the extened hubs on the front for the dully rims but its not 4x4 so I don't know if there is any difference as to how the rotor and wheels are mounted to it. I will have to do a brake job this spring/summer on mine so Im somewhat curius as well to know what to expect.

As for advise, Heres my thoughts, wether they are right or wrong, Its what I do. If your having trouble getting the bolts loose, this might help, you may already have your own plan though. These bolts should be smaller than in the trucks at work so you might get them out with a 1/2 impact. To get the most out of that impact, use a deep drive impact socket with no extension or addapters, If you can get a shallow socket in there, then use it. You will get alot more torque to the bolt this way and the black impact sockets are softer and for some reason work better on an impact. The chrome ones are too solid and bounce around too much and take away from the torqe to the bolt. You may even try to tighten it then loosen it. It really helps to break things loose that are stuck. I know it sounds weird but it works. For instance, sometimes I can't take a drain plug bolt out with my electric impact with a 15/16" chrome socket. I go and get an impact 15/16" socket and she comes right out. Depending on what impact your using and how old it is will have a large effect as well.

If you don't have an impact, You may end up having to mount the hub back to the wheel/tire to hold it or a large vise or that chain type pipe holder and use a breaker bar to get them loose. I did this the first time around before I found the 3/4 and then I finally bought snap-ons biggist 1/2 drive impact. Now I have no trouble. I didn't use any heat and I havn't broke one yet....(yet). I wasn't sure if heating on a hub was a good idea so I skipped it till a last resort. It may not hurt it but wanst' sure about weakening it. Luckely I didnt need it. If you do use heat, get er real warm but not red hot and try it. well, Good Luck

 

Well I got them off, I had a friend wedge a 5 ft wrecking bar on the lugnut studs (with the lugnuts on to save the threads) while I put my 3/4 in drive ratchet with extension on the bolts and leaned on them, all 200 lbs of me. Now I can't find a new inner bearing seal (no one on island has one) so I gotta try to repack the bearing under the seal. I've read here that Ford wants some super-duper ford grease on the wheel bearings, I bought some Valvoline stuff that says good ford wheel bearings all Ford-Mercury-Lincoln and meets Ford M1C75B specs, what ever the he11 that means. Have you ever tried to pack the inner bearing without taking it out, like I'm gonna try?

 

don't know if this helps but I did this a while back and here is a thread i started.

I was able to replace the seal though, so I had the inner bearing out for packing.

anyways, a couple of pictures from my experience are in there.

Good luck and hope your enjoying island life!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...hange-out.html

 

Yes, I saw your thread and looked at your pics, it helped me because I realized my hub was different. I guess with dual wheels you have extended hub in front (Like mine) so the lugnut studs are not part of the rotor. Did you pull off your spindles and check your spindle bearings?

 

freightdogfred
you could try a meat injector to grease the bearings or any thing that is like a large hypodermic needle
large enough to pass the grease but small enough to fit in between the rollers
good luck

 

Well, I took the end off a small grease gun and used that to try and force grease into the bearing, i got as much as I could in. This was the wheel that had the wiped out rotor, the other rotor was fine. All the pads had about a third of life left except the one on the inside (next to the caliper piston) and it was metal to metal, and had wiped out the rotor. For some reason the caliper was not sliding on the rail pin I guess. New pads, rotors, rebuilt calipers and tomorrow I'll put in a rebuilt master cylinder. New hoses, and try to fabricate some new metal lines from the master cylinder as well. The grease in the RF tire looked pretty good, the LF with the bad rotor looked like engine oil. I'm worried about that needle bearing under the spindle, my books says I need yet another special tool to pull it. Any body chime in on how hard it is to remove?

 

I like to cover both rails and both grooves in the caliper with never sieze when I have my brakes apart.

 

I was thinking bout that as I was drifting off to sleep last night...I'm gonna take those calipers off, put some scotch brite on it and put some anti-sieze on it like you said. That caliper was definetly hanging up on the rail. It's a nice design for removal/installation but it's got it's flaws.

 

I had grooves worn in the ones on my original 44 IFS.

The caliper slapping up and down at low speeds about drove me nuts.

A little work with a welder and small grinder and they were like new again.

 

Welll, this job keeps getting more in depth...What started as changing some pads has gone to repacking wheel bearings, replacement of pads,calipers and rotors, and now the lines and master cylinder. When I pulled the calipers I noticed the flexible lines deteriorated, so I said fine I'll change them. Well, the rigid line they connected to was so rusted the line broke removing the fluid fitting. So, now, new brake tubing is needed. The cheap-azz double flare tool I bought just pushes the 3/16 tube out of the clamp when I compress it with the adapter in place not matter how hard I tighten it. I just bought a SnapOn/Blue Point off Fleabay. Any tricks on a successful double flare?
(I guess I just hijacked my own thread!)

 

I have a really cheap doubble flare kit from harbor fright, bought it on special for like $10 or so. Seems to work great. Just make sure you get it real tight and it shouldn't slip unless its defective. You may try taking a hand grinder and sand down the entire clamping surface of the holder so it will clamp down further preventing it from slipping out. If your in a bind, you may try wraping the line in electrical tape where it clamps. When compressed that tight, it might very well hold it enough so that it doesn't slip. Try it on a pice of spare line cause Im going to expierent with that tonight just for the heack of it. You know, Incase I have to compromise someday, I would like to know if it would work.

Ultimatly though, Im sure that snap on set should work nicly. Good luck

Oh, and what does your name freightdogfred stand for??? no offence, just curius..

 

I think the die to make the inward (1st) portion of the double flare is defective. I set it up according to the diagram but it is too shallow of an inward flare, it just bottoms out before anything happens and then the tube starts to slip. I'm really disappointed, my truck is up on jackstands and generally in the way. I'm hoping I have better luck with this Snap On tool. Does any body know a good supplier for premade lines if this doesn't pan out?

They call me the freightdog because I'm a pilot, I used to fly heavy freight around the world.

 

I use straight sections available at almost any parts house in variable lengths.
Get the closest longer length replacement line and a steel tubing bender to make your own lines.