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4R100 Bypass Tube Kit, need some input / advise

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  #61  
Old 08-19-2011, 01:38 PM
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There are two shift solenoids. Neither one will cause the problem you're having. You are losing pressure to the forward clutch. There are several things that could cause that:
Low trans fluid
Loose/missing internal filter
Loose feed bolts between the valve body and the case
Worn seals in the forward clutch
Worn pump
 
  #62  
Old 08-19-2011, 04:12 PM
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I can rule out the filter because it was happening before I change the filter and fluid unless there is another filter. I notice when I let the van run(idle) for a while, the bypass line get hot. What do u suggest I focus my attention on girst?
 
  #63  
Old 08-20-2011, 12:08 PM
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Well this whole tread is a good read. And there is 2 sides to this debate but I agree with Mark on this one. BUT the problem is the cheap stock valve that fails. I myself am a big fan of Sonnax transmission parts and they make a upgraded transmission cooler bypass valve kit. I am NOT getting rid of mine I am just going to upgrade it.
http://www.sonnax.com/system/instruc...605-02K-IN.pdf I would also like to add this link to help back up what I am saying http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/36605-02K.pdf
 
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:35 PM
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how/where
do i order this kit
 
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:38 PM
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i have a newly rebuilt 4r100 that still runs hot ,shifts hard and has the flashing shifter
 
  #66  
Old 11-23-2011, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rez runner
how/where
do i order this kit
First of all what is the temp on trans ? It actually sounds like you have other problems. But if it is the bypass valve. This where I get my trans parts. This should help if this is your problem. Make sure you use compressed air to blow out your trans lines before installing. And check to make sure none of cooling lines are kinked.
E40D 4R100 Transmission cooler bypass valve kit Sonnax 36605-02K If this doesn't fix it you have something going on in the trans.
 
  #67  
Old 12-07-2016, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
You need to somehow block off the "banjo-bolt" of the rear bypass tube, and repeat the test. I've found that a couple of steel washers, a couple of rubber washers, and a bolt and a wing-nut make a suitable blockage device.

Pop
Anyone got a picture of how all that fits together (esp the wing nut)?

What size threads are on that banjo bolt?
 
  #68  
Old 08-30-2021, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
Good thought, but life doesn't work like that.

If the cooler is plugged because the fluid is cold it won't flow again until the ambient temperature gets a lot warmer. I've tested this. It does not matter how hot the trans gets, and how thin the fluid gets, the fluid that's already in the cooler stays at ambient temperature and continues plugging the cooler while the trans gets hotter and hotter.

There is also no ATF temperature regulator in the radiator. There is only a trans COOLER in the radiator. It ALWAYS cools the ATF, even when the engine is warmed up and the trans is ice cold. The radiator COOLER is in the cold side of the radiator, the side where ambient air has already cooled the engine coolant. This side of the radiator stays near ambient temperature in cold weather. If it's -20F ambient and the engine is already warmed up to thermostat temperature the coolant in the cold side of the radiator where the trans COOLER is located will be at 0F to maybe -10F. How's that going to warm the trans up?

This is not just me trying to figure out how it works, I've tested this at ambient temperatures from -40F to +115F. I NEVER found a condition where the engine radiator warmed the trans fluid. IT DOES NOT HAPPEN!
I have been reading this thread with some interest however I must disagree with Mark's statement that the radiator never warms the transmission fluid. If we look at the laws of thermodynamics, it states that heat always moves from a warmer to a cooler object, never the reverse. If we assume the laws of thermodynamics are correct, the transmission "cooler" (actually more like a heat exchanger) does heat the fluid when the coolant temperature in the lower radiator tank becomes hotter as the engine warms up, it does transfer heat to the transmission fluid through the "cooler" when this transmission fluid is colder than the radiator coolant temperature. This works in reverse as the transmission fluid gets hotter than the coolant temperature, the heat is transferred to and absorbed by the radiator coolant. Auto manufacturers have been using these cooling tanks in radiators for years not only to absorb heat from the transmission fluid, but also to aid in warming the transmission fluid when the vehicle is cold.
 
  #69  
Old 08-30-2021, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by paul
I have been reading this thread with some interest however I must disagree with Mark's statement that the radiator never warms the transmission fluid. If we look at the laws of thermodynamics, it states that heat always moves from a warmer to a cooler object, never the reverse. If we assume the laws of thermodynamics are correct, the transmission "cooler" (actually more like a heat exchanger) does heat the fluid when the coolant temperature in the lower radiator tank becomes hotter as the engine warms up, it does transfer heat to the transmission fluid through the "cooler" when this transmission fluid is colder than the radiator coolant temperature. This works in reverse as the transmission fluid gets hotter than the coolant temperature, the heat is transferred to and absorbed by the radiator coolant. Auto manufacturers have been using these cooling tanks in radiators for years not only to absorb heat from the transmission fluid, but also to aid in warming the transmission fluid when the vehicle is cold.
You're welcome to disagree. You are correct that heat always transfers from warmer to colder. Other than that fact you're totally wrong.

The difference between you and me is that I have tested this in actual vehicles in actual cold temperatures. I had thermocouples inside the radiator near the trans cooler, and others measuring the temperature of the ATF going into and out of the cooler. So my observations are from watching actual temperatures. You are running a thought experiment where you imagine what you expect to happen. But you DON'T KNOW what happens, you are just guessing.

When the engine is at operating temperature of about 200°F and the ambient temperature is -30°F what is the temperature in the lower tank during your experiments? Did you measure it, or are you just assuming it is near 200°F? I measured this in those conditions. The lower tank temperature didn't rise above -10°F in those conditions. So how much heat is the ATF absorbing when the cooler is in -10°F coolant? The ATF by this time is about 80-100°F.
 
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  #70  
Old 11-07-2022, 01:16 PM
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This thread has made me think that I would like to replace the entire ByPass Cooler line on my 4R100,
I just ran a CARFAX and got a lot of info about my truck, and it has been in the repair shops more than I would like.

I just watched Precision Transmission of Amarillo video and Richard, tells us that if there is any doubt about the valves in the ByPass line, please just replace it, the $20 to $30 is not worth the cost of burning up the gears in the transmission.


but, I can't find a part number to order that entire line, only the valve kit itself.
RockAuto's listing is very lacking in detail,
Silver State Ford which is a nice discount house, does not list the ByPass line, or I don't know how to find it.

Transmission bypass line

and a 2nd video he made on the 4R100
 
  #71  
Old 11-07-2022, 10:38 PM
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2C3Z7H322BA is what you’re looking for, I bought one from rockauto last year in June, was $38 CAD, I see it’s gone up to $73 CAD now….
 
  #72  
Old 11-07-2022, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ifrythings
2C3Z7H322BA is what you’re looking for, I bought one from rockauto last year in June, was $38 CAD, I see it’s gone up to $73 CAD now….

Thank you, Rock auto has 1 left, for $54 US....
to ship it will cost me $35 US

jeezus, I think I can get one at the local stealer for that price
 
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