I have a question. The bearing ball in the bypass line, is it installed on the trany side of the spring or on the bult side of the spring. Also can I eliminate the the trany fluid going thru the radiator and just use the trany external cooler? Will it cool the trany fluid enough?

 

The original 99's did not have the oil-to-water cooler in the bottom radiator tank, and only had an oil-to-air mounted.

They added it to the 2000's because they had problems with inadequate cooling.

They don't ADD one cent to the cost of production if it's not necessary.

I wouldn't second-guess all those engineers at Ford.

Pop

 

Thats right Pop. Sounds like something my old auto shop teacher back in high school used to say.
The auto engineers spend millions in research, they're not going to add a bypass if it had no purpose. Everything is there for one reason or another.

 

Ok, I finaly got around to ordering the bypass line for the tranny. Upon inspection ot the part, I notice that one of the bolt(smaller one) is packed with grease. Should I remove the grease or just leave it in and the trany fluid will do the rest? I dont want it to mic with the trany fluid and case any damage or if i leave it in will it act as an obstructiion in the line?

 

That grease might be there to stop corrosion while it sits on the shelf.

I don't think it would be a good thing to let flow through the lines.

 

So far I have changed my bypass line, filter, and oil on my 1999 e250 tranny. I am still getting a little reving of the engine on 1st gear. I loaned my friend my van because his auto was down. He had it for a few months. After a while he jokingly told me he drove with the over drive off because it saved more gas. I never heard of that. Before I gave him the van to use, it ran fine untill I got it back. Would running with the OD distroy the tranny? Is it possible that the torque converter is bad? How would I check the TC? I am weighing all my odds before replacing the tranny. Reverse is fine.

 

What do you mean by "a little revving of the engine on first gear?"

Neither running with the overdrive on nor off (you post is quite confusing on which you mean) will hurt the transmission. Running with the overdrive off will just burn more fuel, it won't hurt anything except the wallet of whoever is paying for the fuel.

It's possible that anything is bad. I need more description of what is wrong before I can even guess if there is something wrong.

If the torque converter is bad it will be bad in all gears, not just first gear.

 

hello Mark. I apologize for the confusion. I was writing the post from my phone. This is the situation. Before i loaned him the van it ran fine, switch gears fine and everything. The problem tarted after i got it back. I drove it down into town about 20 mile. It ran fine going but while i was in town with it, i noticed that when i step on the gas to move off, it would rev a little before the van started to move. as i started heading back home, i noticed it reved even more before moving off. On the highway back home it ran fine until i exit off then the reving increased before the van moved off. I havent driven it since that happened for fear of doing more damage to the trany. last week i changed the oil and filter and install a new bypass line because the old one sprung a leak. I noticed that when i put it in gear, the tranny dont ingage like it do when i put it in reverse. And the situation is more noticable when i let the van warn up somewhat. the reving of the engine i am refering to is not a high reving when the engine is cold. hope this help clarify.

 

Can someone tell me if the tranny bypass line should be warmer than the cooling lines going to the radiator. What temp should it be running at.

 

I want to know why the tranny builders wont chime in on this subject? I believe WE should hear both of their reasons for keeping and not keeping the bypass line. As i stated above i had had mine in for almost four years and my tranny is still living strong.

 

Since the bypass valve stays closed all the time unless the resistance to flow in the cooler circuit exceeds the bypass pressure threshold, all the flow is SUPPOSED to go through the cooler lines, and none through the bypass line.

The cooler line out (front-most) should be warmer than the bypass. If not, you are in an abnormal condition. That can be caused by two things.

1) The cooler circuit is blocked by crud of some kind, and won't allow fluid to flow through.
2) The bypass valve has failed and is stuck open, allowing the cooling fluid to immediately return to the rear port without being cooled.

To test it, remove the REAR cooler line (the return from the coolers) and stick it into a bucket. Run the engine for 15 seconds. You should have at least 32 ounces of fluid in the bucket, and NO fluid coming out of the open trans port. You might want to put a pan under that port, as you will most likely have fluid coming out in your situation.

If everything fails the testing, how do you determine which reason is causing the problem? You need to somehow block off the "banjo-bolt" of the rear bypass tube, and repeat the test. I've found that a couple of steel washers, a couple of rubber washers, and a bolt and a wing-nut make a suitable blockage device. If you then get your 32 ounces, it's the valve, not the coolers. If not, then you have a legitimate cooler blockage, and the valve is just doing its job.

Here's a valve repair kit if the valve is the problem:
http://www.sonnax.com/system/instruc...605-02K-IN.pdf

Pop

 

the check ball that i see is in the return fitting bolt.

 

Can anyone tell me what the symptoms of a bad or going bad 1st & 2nd gear solinoid valve are and would they be hard to change out on a 4TH100 trany? Ford e250, 1999

 

The symptoms on a 4R100 (I don't know what a 4TH100 is) would be problems making the 1-2 shift, if it will make the shift at all. It's easy to change once the pan is off.

 

Your right, 4R100. Is it one solinoid for each gear? I have changed the oil&filter, and bypass valve. I have yet to check if the fluid is going thru the bypass valve instead of the cooler. The symptoms improve when I changed the above parts (the engine would rev slighty before 1st gear engage. Also when in Drive and on an slight incline, the van would roll back if I release the brake untill I give it gass). I think it would be a cheaper fix to change the solinoid before reverting to changing the trany. Your input is very helpfull and appreciated.