TDC for 96 Ranger 3.0
#1
TDC for 96 Ranger 3.0
I need to replace the camshaft synchronizer and my Haynes manual says to put motor to TDC by feeling air in the #1 plug port. I see the TDC mark on the crankshaft but where is the pointer to align it up with? Anyone have a picture? And how can this be done with a remote starter? I have one but don't know where to hook it up. Help
#2
#3
Maybe 15 years ago when I bought it. Can I hook it up to the starter relay which is beside the battery? This is how I think I did it years ago. Anyway I found the engine can be turned by turning the alternator bolt. I used a 15/16 inch socket and a pair of vice grips. It was near impossible for me to get a socket on the crankshaft. I could not fit my hands in that small space between the fan and the crankshaft.
What does the TDC mark look like on the crankshaft? I have one that is a deep long and wide groove. But the other end of the crankshaft is the markings and degrees.
What does the TDC mark look like on the crankshaft? I have one that is a deep long and wide groove. But the other end of the crankshaft is the markings and degrees.
#4
OK done. Once I figured out how to get it at TDC I was ok. TDC is marked and at zero degrees. I was incorrect earlier when I was looking at that notch. As I stated earlier, I turned the motor at the alternator. In order to do that I had to remove the air cleaner hose. The first rotation of the TDC I didn't feel air but the second rotation I felt the air puffing on my thumb (only my thumb would fit in there) then I aligned the zero with the pointer beside the sensor. It is about the 10 o'clock position and to the right of the sensor and looks like a large point.
Now before I removed the old synchronizer, I marked where the center of the broken "C" part would have been on the top stationary part of the synchronizer. Then to a reference point on the motor. I also put the special tool on the old synchronizer before I removed it and marked where the arrow was pointing on the cables above. I was able then to remove it and put the new in the exact same place since I marked it good.
Started it up and cleared the code and drove it. All is good.
Now before I removed the old synchronizer, I marked where the center of the broken "C" part would have been on the top stationary part of the synchronizer. Then to a reference point on the motor. I also put the special tool on the old synchronizer before I removed it and marked where the arrow was pointing on the cables above. I was able then to remove it and put the new in the exact same place since I marked it good.
Started it up and cleared the code and drove it. All is good.
Last edited by royt911; 12-03-2008 at 04:48 PM. Reason: updated information
#5
OK done. Once I figured out how to get it at TDC I was ok. TDC is marked and at zero degrees. I was incorrect earlier when I was looking at that notch. As I stated earlier, I turned the motor at the alternator. In order to do that I had to remove the air cleaner hose. The first rotation of the TDC I didn't feel air but the second rotation I felt the air puffing on my thumb (only my thumb would fit in there) then I aligned the zero with the pointer beside the sensor. It is about the 10 o'clock position and to the right of the sensor and looks like a large point.
Now before I removed the old synchronizer, I marked where the center of the broken "C" part would have been on the top stationary part of the synchronizer. Then to a reference point on the motor. I also put the special tool on the old synchronizer before I removed it and marked where the arrow was pointing on the cables above. I was able then to remove it and put the new in the exact same place since I marked it good.
Started it up and cleared the code and drove it. All is good.
Now before I removed the old synchronizer, I marked where the center of the broken "C" part would have been on the top stationary part of the synchronizer. Then to a reference point on the motor. I also put the special tool on the old synchronizer before I removed it and marked where the arrow was pointing on the cables above. I was able then to remove it and put the new in the exact same place since I marked it good.
Started it up and cleared the code and drove it. All is good.
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