Heater isn’t very hot!
#17
When really cold out, I've always had trouble getting FE's to warm up, regardless of the thermostat. I've always had to run cardboard in front of the radiator, then when the engine comes up to temp, the heater works fine. I've always blamed this on the bypass hose between the water pump and intake manifold. Does your temperature gauge come up? I normally used two pieces of cardboard that each would cover half the radiator. Then I could adjust it to where the temp comes up to where it needs to be by changing the amount of overlap on the two pieces of cardboard. I've often run with just a couple inches of radiator (a strip top to bottom) uncovered. Of course, you have to watch your gauge if you run into a warm day then just expose more radiator.
#18
I pulled the heater hoses, water flows fine through both ends so i assume the heater core is ok. I removed the old 195 degree stat and replaced it with a new 195. Still problem. Slightly warm air flows through. I have a new heater control to replace my broken one coming to me (its in the mail!). Kinda hard to find them with the factory AC. Anyway i noticed today that if the truck is up to temp and i leave the heater fan OFF for about 5 minutes then turn it on the heat seems a little warmer, might be my imagination. Anything else to check? How many flap panels are there that i need to check to make sure no fresh air is coming in? I only know of the driver/passenger floor panels.
#19
Dave, The heat systems are pretty simple on these old trucks. Basically the heater core is a small radiator like the one in front. It gets hot water from the engine and the fan blows air through it to give you heat in the cab.
The system can get clogged from low use and not flow hot water.
The inline water control valve in the 5/8" hose can not allow enough water to pass. Pull it out and put a 2" piece of 1/2 copper water pipe in for a full flow test.
The hoses can be clogged and not allow enough flow.
The water pump can have it's fins erroded away and not be able to pump the water.
The thermostat and be non functioning (you said that you replaced that.)
The can be trash in the air ducts, or heater box itself that wont allow air to flow across the core to pickup and make hot air.
There can be bad rubber around the doors and windows allowing enough fresh cold air in from the outside that the heater can't overcome it with hot air. (The case with my truck, and the reason that I plugged the fresh air intake to the heater box on the passenger side.)
If you go through my check list and make sure all those items are in good working order you should have heat. The water pump is about the most expensive part in the list.
Folk have had to block air flow through the front radiator because it is working too good, and extra cold air is cooling too well.
Hope you get some heat in your ride.
John
The system can get clogged from low use and not flow hot water.
The inline water control valve in the 5/8" hose can not allow enough water to pass. Pull it out and put a 2" piece of 1/2 copper water pipe in for a full flow test.
The hoses can be clogged and not allow enough flow.
The water pump can have it's fins erroded away and not be able to pump the water.
The thermostat and be non functioning (you said that you replaced that.)
The can be trash in the air ducts, or heater box itself that wont allow air to flow across the core to pickup and make hot air.
There can be bad rubber around the doors and windows allowing enough fresh cold air in from the outside that the heater can't overcome it with hot air. (The case with my truck, and the reason that I plugged the fresh air intake to the heater box on the passenger side.)
If you go through my check list and make sure all those items are in good working order you should have heat. The water pump is about the most expensive part in the list.
Folk have had to block air flow through the front radiator because it is working too good, and extra cold air is cooling too well.
Hope you get some heat in your ride.
John
#21
1 things for sure fzeed i have the factory a/c setup too, and that door that separates the ac core from the heater core has a little piece of foam on it, and mine was deteriorated. i had to take it all apart and fix it, then re-adjust the cable so that when i move the lever and put it on heat, the cable actually pulls enough to open the door completely. i have experimented with taking the cable off and opening that door by hand, and if it is not sealed up by just a hair i can feel the difference in temp coming from the vents. you gotta have 100% airflow going through the heater core only and not the a/c core or the compartment that it sits in, or the passage that the air will try and move through. i'd say the difference between having the duct closed and having it just a hair not closed all the way is MAJOR! for some reason the 71 i owned had the best heater in the world. that heater was rediculously good and hot. i sure miss my 71. but the example goes to show that you should be able to get that ford of yours, or any ford for that matter to bake your butt!
#22
There are 2 cables in that area. Which cable are you referring to? the one closest to the cab or furthest from the cab? I got my new heater/ac control box today. Wow i paid for it yesterday on ebay and BAM its here today. Any this box is like new. The cables look mint!!!! Took me quite awhile to get the old one out and put the new one in. Anyway i lost the retaining piece that goes to the cable on the left side of the heater near the floorboard so thats not hooked up. What does that control? Anyway, the heat is way better, still not HOT HOT HOT but it gets warm which it never did before.
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