Hi I've got a 1984 Ford Ranger 2.3l and its getting pretty crappy mileage, right now I get about 15 in the city and 19-20 on the hwy. I realize that the epa ratings for these years were a bit off but the truck is rated for 24 city and 33 hwy and I've never gotten close to that.
Here's whats been done to the truck so far, me and my dad rebuilt the engine last fall and replaced everything. When i got the truck most of the computer and emissions stuff had been destroyed so I found i non computer controlled Carter YFA carb and rebuilt it. Timing is a Duraspark II and appears to be working, I'm planning on replacing that with a new one as soon as I can. Timing is set per the label on the hood at 6* BTDC but I have also tried 10* because that's what the engine is listed for on this site. EGR is plugged off I don't even know where I could find hoses for that since they weren't on the truck when i got it. Some people say that could have some impact. It does not have a cat on it just a regular muffler and was like that when i got.
I guess i'm looking for ideas on what might be wrong. I've read some things about people replacing the carb with a Weber DFEV like the older couriers had which is an on demand 2 Barrel and might get better milage. I've replaced Cap and rotor and wires so I don't think thats it though it might be since I used really cheap wires. Coil and Ignition module haven't been touched. Sorry for the long post I just wanted to get all the details out there. If anyone has an idea let me know?

Thanks
Shawn Weeks

 

I don't know what system was on 1984 models, but I don't think they had EFI. The had a 'feedback' carb on some models, depending on which emissions system they had.
If you do not have inspections, you can pretty much replace whatever you want. Stuff from Pintos and Mustangs and Capris will bolt on. You could get a Weber 2-bbl progressive as you note, but beware of the black 'charcoal looking' floats, as they tend to absorb fuel, and let the fuel level in the float bowl get too high, leading to an over-rich condition. Your 1-bbl might have one of those.?
I get about 24-25 mpg with my 85, California emissions, EFI 2.3, 5speed. That is country driving, and some freeway. without trying for max mpg.
The Duraspark is a fine ignition system, why do you want to replace it? The 2.3 only had one year of points style ignition - 1974. What were you planning on replacing it with? Do you have the distributor vacuum advance connected to the right spot? Does it work? Does it seem to be running rich - i.e. smoky exhaust , smelly exhaust?
tom

 

I replaced the feedback carb with a standard Carter YFA and the truck ran better, vacuum advance is hooked to the carburetor and I've put a vacuum gauge on the port to verify that it is working. It does not appear to be running rich, the engine has just been rebuilt and their is no smoke it just gets crappy gas mileage and I'm running out of ideas on whats wrong. I've talked to other people with this truck same year that get almost 30mpg on the hwy. The reason i was looking at the other carb was a lot of people were replacing them on their jeeps with the same carter yfa that i've got and it improved their millage.

I don't know where i mentioned replacing the ignition system but i have no intention of changing that since its about the best i can do for that truck. guess i goofed in my long post


Thanks

 

...I noticed my wife's Ranger got widely differing mileage. On the long Highways it got just under 32mpg. Around the county here, some stop and go, fairly rural, it's more like 27mpg. When in Atlanta, it was more like 21mpg.....I'm a pretty big stickler on economy, so I like to watch these things....I got to re-engine that truck too though. I can't complain though, she got over 330,000 miles on it with only one clutch rebuild.....Hers is throttle body injected though...

 

Did you put in a 195 thermostat, or at least a new one? I would check to make sure that the cam is timed properly, and re-check the ignition timing. You should get vacuum to the advance with the throttle open, and, as a general rule, set the timing with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged with the engine at normal idle.
Two other things: Do you have more or less standard sized tires/wheels? Have you checked your odometer using mileage markers alongside the highway?
Pondering continues.
tom

 

Brand new thermostat as of a couple of months ago, timing is set to 6* as per the sticker though i've tried 10* with no change. I've put a vacuum meter on the spark port to verify its working, and I can see it advance on the distributor though I plan on replacing that tomorrow because i'm not sure if its advancing enough. It has standard hwy tires i think they are 195s or 205s and i've checked the odometer with a gps and its correct or at least really close. I'll keep checking stuff

 

Do you have a tachometer? My truck will go 60 turning about 2200 rpms in 5th gear. I don't know the axle ratio I have, but thought the number might be good for comparison to see if you are revving a lot.
mileage things: spark gap, fuel level (mix), air cleaner, tires pumped up, carb power valve not broken - or the wrong one installed, timing correct. And keeping extra stuff at home rather than lugging it around all the time.
I would advance the timing with the vacuum disconnected. The distributor should be able to get the timing advanced up to somewhere near 30 degrees with the vacuum connected. That means about 20+ degrees of advance available by vacuum along with the centrifugal weights.
Does this thing run like it has power or is it logey?
tom