What years models and what not will go into the 10.25?

I am looking at one from a 03 F-350 35 spline. Will it work? Do the 350s have the 10.50 in the rear or is it different?

Also I cant find a rebuild kit for the 10.50 limited slip, anyone know where to find one?
Thanks
John

 

as long as that 350 is not a dually it will bolt right in. and i've never looked for an aftermarket rebuild kit for one, ford definatly has them though

 

I take it this means that there is no difference in the spline tooth count on the axle shafts between the 10.25 and the 10.5 ?

Looking at an alternative diff for my 1997 10.25. It would be based on the 10.5

Rory

 

The LS will only work.....the gears will not.....you will have to buy 10.25 gears if you want to change ratio's.
The '99+ 10.5 axle is a bolt in.....but the lug pattern is different.....I am still researching on if its possible changing the lug pattern...I am sure it is,just have not come across it

 

Anyone know on the spline count? What spline are the 10.25s?

 

they are both 35 spline, the carrier is all you need, it is a direct bolt in from your stock 10.25.

 

Ron,
The SD 10.5 has a larger u-joint so you'll have to either change the pinion yoke or the one on the back of the driveshaft, also the shock mounts will have to be relocated as will the brackets for the parking brake cable

For the front of a 2WD you can use the SD hubs, brakes and wheels. The bearings are the same and they will swap directly onto the OBS spindle.

 

Yep, you can change the lug pattern by re-drilling the axles.
Sorry I mention this before in our PM's.

Moser Engineering

 

Rod, is that just for the SD or all 10.5 axles? I'm thinking about doing the same as Ron, swapping in a disc brake rear axle.

 

No I am confused......how would we redrill the axle?????It is a full floater.....it would have splines on each end(not like a c-clip axle)......I found this but have not read through it yet

Ford 10.25 & 10.50-Inch Axle Tips - Four Wheeler Magazine

I was wondering about the 10.25 hubs going on to the 10.5...then getting disks with 8x6.5 pattern.

 

Jim
Hell I don't know, what else uses the 10.5? I bought an axle out of a 2000 SD because it had discs and 3.73's but things came up where I had to move back here from Az and I ran out of time so I left the axle behind to make room for the rest of my junk.
Oh, and the wms-wms is 2" wider on the SD axle.

 

That would almost as nice as having the disc brakes! No more need for wheel spacers to get track width the same front and rear!

 

Well....after alot of searching and reading I have come up with some info....


1985½-1998 F250 and F350 trucks with both single and dual rear used a 10.25" Corporate rear axle with the same wheel bearings for either model. These axles use a left hand thread ratchet lock nut on the left side and a right hand thread ratchet nut on the right side. The nuts are reusable but are subject to wear. The axle shafts seal with o-rings instead of gaskets. The wheel seals are of the oil bath type, but oil leakage past the seals is a common problem with this axle. There are several possible causes of leakage with a plugged vent hose and/or fitting being at the top of the list. Chronic leakage can often be traced to improper seal installation or a defective hub (seal bore is off center or damaged).
10.5" Corporate rear axle is similar to the older (1985-1998) 10.25" axle, however, the inner wheel bearings and seals are different.

I would like to see and mic out one of each hub inners to make sure that they are the same......
If they are....I do not see a problem with swapping them over....then the only problem would be rotors...but with alot of measurements,and a trip to a auto store...... start looking at rotors to slip on.

I am going to call around tomorrow and see if anyone has a hub for each on the shelf and take a trip if I can find them

 

Rod
I did not see this post........that is good to know........but the only way I will get rid of these wheels is if I go to 19.5's.......and that price tag is a little high for me right now


EDIT.....changing it on the d-shaft would be easy enough not to worry about it.....the wife has the spin down-pat as I weld...LOL

 

Ron the Rotor is the easiest part of the whole project. The Rotors from an E-series are exactly the same as a pickup but have 8x6.5 bolt holes. Now the only problem may come is if the wheel mounting surface different that Rodney is talking about is in the hub design. IF the wheel flange is in a different position from the two hubs then the hat distance on the rotor will be incorrect.