Truck won't idle after header install
#1
Truck won't idle after header install
Anyone with the fuel injected straight six ever have problems getting it to idle after removing the EGR and air pump? I had to do this to install Hedman headers. My truck ran perfectly before, now it starts, then dies immediately. Give it throttle, and it revs higher, then dies immediately. It's a 96.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
#2
You can't just remove the EGR. The computer expects it to be there. You will struggle forever with it if it's not. Get the right headers for your truck and you won't have a problem.
BTW, headers for a straight six are just about useless. The EFI manifolds that you took off flow as well as any aftermarket header.
BTW, headers for a straight six are just about useless. The EFI manifolds that you took off flow as well as any aftermarket header.
#3
#4
So I do need the EGR, that's what I was afraid of. Funny, I took the EGR completely off a Mitsubishi of the same year and had zero issues.
Anyway, it wasn't the EFI manifolds I had a problem with, it was the ugly crush bent downpipes, and these headers replace both.
So I guess I'll try re-plumbing the EGR pipe, unless the computer can be fooled somehow?
Anyway, it wasn't the EFI manifolds I had a problem with, it was the ugly crush bent downpipes, and these headers replace both.
So I guess I'll try re-plumbing the EGR pipe, unless the computer can be fooled somehow?
#5
#7
You could be right, I was just going off what the EGR Eliminator webpage said.
"Also works on most 1986-95 Ford that uses the Light Gray EGR valve position sensor; which has a closed reading of 0.24 – 0.67 volts. Without this the computer will assume the EGR is stuck open when removed, causing a rough running engine. We can’t guarantee these will work on every 1986-95 Ford, but the only other option is a custom chip for the computer, which typically costs $350 or more. While the only option for 1996 and newer Fords is a custom tuned chip for the computer."
My truck doesn't have the sensor on the EGR valve, so this isn't an option for me. However, I think I have a vacuum leak to track down and fix before messing with the EGR any more.
"Also works on most 1986-95 Ford that uses the Light Gray EGR valve position sensor; which has a closed reading of 0.24 – 0.67 volts. Without this the computer will assume the EGR is stuck open when removed, causing a rough running engine. We can’t guarantee these will work on every 1986-95 Ford, but the only other option is a custom chip for the computer, which typically costs $350 or more. While the only option for 1996 and newer Fords is a custom tuned chip for the computer."
My truck doesn't have the sensor on the EGR valve, so this isn't an option for me. However, I think I have a vacuum leak to track down and fix before messing with the EGR any more.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Kilo Sierra
335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland
5
09-14-2012 03:07 PM
fairfield86f150
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
13
04-01-2012 01:44 PM
cj96f150
Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300
19
11-17-2008 02:15 PM
Wakeboarder141
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
32
04-02-2004 06:46 AM