I cold bent the beams and cut 2 coils , dropped it 4 inches , the air shocks lift it and lower it 3 inches . It used to hit the crossmember once in awhile on potholes . With the air shocks it does not bottom out anymore and the ride is like a caddy .

 

Thank you for the clarification, I didn't want someone not as familiar with suspension getting confused and really screwing something up.

I always wondered if the hole for the pivot end could be redrilled higher up, therefor raising the entire ibeam. The crossmember would have to be modified I think, but it always looks good in theory when I am laying under my truck.

 

I thought the same thing. I was waiting until I reassemble my fame and I was going to bring this up. Rather than redrill the hole I think you could raise that part of the bracket. It seems to me there were holes already there that looked like they would work. The only problem I can see is the reduced travel before hitting the frame.

I should be putting my frame together next week, I may start a thread on this.

 

I'm assuming you had to fabricate a new lower shock mount b/c it's position changed once you cut the coils right?

Which Monroe Max air shocks did you use?

Did you change the spring perch positioning?

How much suspension travel do you have on the front end?

Did you notch the cross member?

What did you do for air supply?

Do you have any pics?

This seems like a viable option for me until I can save up some money for drop beams & I'd like to make sure I fully understand what you did.

 

Pics in my gallery , made a lower shock mount and removed stock mount . Bolted new shock mount to radius arm , 4 by 6 inch plate and drilled 2 holes . This has to be done to turn shock body with the valve going to the side where the air line go's . The height is the same , 4 inch drop . When filled lifts about 2-3 inches . They also work without air . The spring is rubbing the shock body in one spot , may go to 3.5 inch coils to solve that . Always fabricating . The shocks are 12" comp and 19" full length , you can look up monroe for lengths . On a stock truck the length would be ok but still would have to bolt shock to radius arm at 90 dagree . And remove shock mount . Since mine is lowered had to move shock mount down 3-4 inches so it wouldnt bottom out . Hope this helps . So far works amazing .

 

Forgot to add that I used the stock lower shock mount to mount the bottom of the shock to the plate for strength , you can see it in the pic .

 

This topic has heen very helpful. I was looking st the supension on ky 78' shortbed today pondering on how to get it closer to the Earth.

 

What air-shock controller are you using?

 

 

hey,brad when you lowed your truck with the djm lowering kit. did yours ride different rough....mine ride kind of different,and a little rough..i was told when u lower a truck its gone ride a little different...

 

I'm not really into lowering but after I replaced the coil springs on mine it just didn't look right. I ended up taking them back off and cutting a coil and half off to get this posture. I don't know how much it lowered it from the factory stance but I like it. The camber is off a little but this will do until I can invest in some drop beams. But it rides and corners just fine though...

 

This I like

 

Just finished mine up. Cut two coils in the front and flipped the rear. Gutted the interior and freshed everything up, too. She runs and drives nice! A big thanks to this forum and its members for being my inspiration. I had been wanting to build one of these trucks since I had my old '69 F100 back in high school.

 

Looks good man. Are you trying to sell it already?

 

Ya, got my eye on an ol' '62 F100 that has just right amount of sky blue and rust. Can't have 'em all. Are you on the NLOC forum, too? Your truck looks familiar. I used to have a black '93.