Comprehensive "Steering Wander" Thread Compilation (and Excursion leaf spring spreadhseet)
#31
04-01-2011, 11:28 AM
#32
04-01-2011, 09:01 PM
#33
04-13-2011, 01:00 PM
#35
04-13-2011, 02:02 PM
that only 2x4 models had the coil springs, all 4x4 have leaf springs. I would never put overly soft springs (like the ones from the excursion) on a heavy truck like the f350. Causes axle warp when the suspension moves and causes more wandering and instability in the vehicle. Now if you have track bars... different story... If you are looking for a softer spring that does not support towing like the F350 does... look at Deaver springs (think they are progressive)
#38
05-02-2011, 05:54 AM
when you installed the modified B code springs, did you use the stock Excursion block or did you use the 3.5" F250 block?
#40
06-06-2011, 02:59 AM
It seems that alot of owners are complaining of steering wander AFTER a ball joint replacement. I have come to a conclusion about this and it seems that there is an inconsistency with the procedure for the torquing of the ball joints. I have had a TON of problems with this and have replaced multiple sets of ball joints to try to correct this issue. After this last time I believe I found the culprit and it seems that with one small extra step and re-order of the ball joint torquing sequence will correct this (or it has in my situation).
Most of these problems are because of the upper ball joint alignment sleeve is being expanded too early when the upper ball joint is torqued not allowing the sleeve to move upward causing the ball joints to bind. If the alignment sleeve is fully seated in the axle, the new ball jont will make it expand before it can align with the upper ball joint while torquing the bottom ball joint. Here is what I did to remedy this.
I pressed in new ball joints. I then tapped the upper ball joint alignment sleeve up until it was roughly 1/4-1/2" off its seat. You have to understand, at this point someone will chime in and say that upsetting this sleeve will change your alignment. It wont. It has once side cut flat and can only set back in one positon. Anyway, your sleeve is 1/4 to 1/2" off its seat and you install the knuckle by holding it up and you then install the lower ball joint nut and torque it to the manufacturers spec. At this time your upper ball joint should NOT be seated in the sleeve. If it does seat, tap the alignment sleeve up a little to unseat it. You now thread on the upper ball joint nut and begin to torque it slowly. The sleeve will draw down on the ball joint and stop when its fully seated. Dont worry if the shoulder of the sleeve doesn't seat on the axle all the way. This means your upper ball joint has seated properly and is not going to cause a bind. Swing the knuckle left and right a couple of times. It should be smooth and shouldn't take more than the force of one finger to turn it. If it does, bust it all loose and try again. My left side took two times to get it right.
My experience.... ALL moog ball joints will give you problems. I replaced stiff moog joints for new moog joints and they were manufactured too stiff again. One set I ran for two years without them ever loosening up. NAPA house brand ball joints are spicer and the uppers are the best you can get, even compared to the stock ones. Lower ball joints are a different story. Best you can buy are the motorcraft stockers.... They ARE the standard. Best build quality I've seen for a lower ball joint and there is a good reason they aren't greaseable, the cup is coated with teflon or something to that effect. They have just enough grease in them to last a lifetime and the seal is designed to not be damaged by outside objects.
Most of these problems are because of the upper ball joint alignment sleeve is being expanded too early when the upper ball joint is torqued not allowing the sleeve to move upward causing the ball joints to bind. If the alignment sleeve is fully seated in the axle, the new ball jont will make it expand before it can align with the upper ball joint while torquing the bottom ball joint. Here is what I did to remedy this.
I pressed in new ball joints. I then tapped the upper ball joint alignment sleeve up until it was roughly 1/4-1/2" off its seat. You have to understand, at this point someone will chime in and say that upsetting this sleeve will change your alignment. It wont. It has once side cut flat and can only set back in one positon. Anyway, your sleeve is 1/4 to 1/2" off its seat and you install the knuckle by holding it up and you then install the lower ball joint nut and torque it to the manufacturers spec. At this time your upper ball joint should NOT be seated in the sleeve. If it does seat, tap the alignment sleeve up a little to unseat it. You now thread on the upper ball joint nut and begin to torque it slowly. The sleeve will draw down on the ball joint and stop when its fully seated. Dont worry if the shoulder of the sleeve doesn't seat on the axle all the way. This means your upper ball joint has seated properly and is not going to cause a bind. Swing the knuckle left and right a couple of times. It should be smooth and shouldn't take more than the force of one finger to turn it. If it does, bust it all loose and try again. My left side took two times to get it right.
My experience.... ALL moog ball joints will give you problems. I replaced stiff moog joints for new moog joints and they were manufactured too stiff again. One set I ran for two years without them ever loosening up. NAPA house brand ball joints are spicer and the uppers are the best you can get, even compared to the stock ones. Lower ball joints are a different story. Best you can buy are the motorcraft stockers.... They ARE the standard. Best build quality I've seen for a lower ball joint and there is a good reason they aren't greaseable, the cup is coated with teflon or something to that effect. They have just enough grease in them to last a lifetime and the seal is designed to not be damaged by outside objects.
#41
12-21-2011, 12:05 AM
#44
12-22-2011, 07:28 AM
Hotshot
