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Hello to all I'm new here and recently bought a 78 F250 4x4. It has new axles and recently rebuilt motor and trans with six inches of lift. Its a work in progress and I cant wait to see her done as I'm starting to restore her I was wondering if anyone could tell me why my master cylinder leaks from the top with the cap on as I apply the brakes? I replaced it because of this leaking but it still does it with the new one. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you-Rich
i honestly have no idea why it would do that except to say that there is excess pressure somewhere, either in the lines or possible the brake booster. One upgrade for your brake that you may want to consider is upgrading your rear wheel cylinders to the 31mm produced by gm that they used in there 1 ton duallys with the dana 80 rearend. i know that i may be frowned upon for suggesting this but it does greatly increase your braking performance. have done in to several trucks and i was well worth it. no modifications neccesary it just bolts in place. also welcome to FTE. i am also new here and have found this place very informative.
i honestly have no idea why it would do that except to say that there is excess pressure somewhere, either in the lines or possible the brake booster. One upgrade for your brake that you may want to consider is upgrading your rear wheel cylinders to the 31mm produced by gm that they used in there 1 ton duallys with the dana 80 rearend. i know that i may be frowned upon for suggesting this but it does greatly increase your braking performance. have done in to several trucks and i was well worth it. no modifications neccesary it just bolts in place. also welcome to FTE. i am also new here and have found this place very informative.
Thank you for the info, def. look into that. It just started doing it 2 days ago and whats weird is you can still bleed the lines. I noticed tonight as you press down on the brakes you can here an air leak coming from the booster. Thanks again-Rich
Welcome I had the same problem with mine. First try replacing the vacuum linethat goes from the back of the intake to the brakebooster. If its not that then then you need to replace the booster. I got mine from NPD. they are nice people. cost about 100 bucks but comes with a new master cylinder. You can disconnect the master cylinder from the booster with out un hoking the lines.
Welcome I had the same problem with mine. First try replacing the vacuum linethat goes from the back of the intake to the brakebooster. If its not that then then you need to replace the booster. I got mine from NPD. they are nice people. cost about 100 bucks but comes with a new master cylinder. You can disconnect the master cylinder from the booster with out un hoking the lines.
Thank you for your reply, I will try that today. This is a great site-Rich
Welcome I had the same problem with mine. First try replacing the vacuum linethat goes from the back of the intake to the brakebooster. If its not that then then you need to replace the booster. I got mine from NPD. they are nice people. cost about 100 bucks but comes with a new master cylinder. You can disconnect the master cylinder from the booster with out un hoking the lines.
I went out to look and noticed that the line runs to the back of the carb, Its supposed to be hooked to the intake correct thanks-Rich
I went out to look and noticed that the line runs to the back of the carb, Its supposed to be hooked to the intake correct thanks-Rich
It really should be hooked to the intake manifold. The manifold itself serves as an intake plenum and while it is not much of one it does serve to dampen the vacuum fluctuations you get at the base of the carb.
it was almost to easy to install and it didn't make me go broke. i like knowing that i dont have 80 pounds of rotating weight now with the disc and there cheap and easy to maintain.
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