stud nut snapped off while changing over my Summer tires. Does anyone know how big a job it is to replace, and what would be a reasonable cost at a tire store?
Do they have to disassemble the rotor to install it, and is it a bad idea to replace just one, or do em all so they're all the same age?

 

to clarify, it is the bolt that broke, and the outermost piece is stuck in the nut, so needs a new stud+nut.

 

They will most likely have to remove the hub to push the lug bolt backwards and out of the hub, as they are pressed in hydroclically by the manufactorer. As for replacing the others, with the truck being a newer model, unlikely you will need the others replaced, and its most likely a flaw in that particular bolt. Older trucks with more miles (over 100000) I would replace them all if I get a snapped one. Cost, the lug bolt should be about $10, and shop fees run anywhere from 35-65 an hour, with a 2 hour minimal charge. It should only take an hour or two tops to do it.

 

so should these have been lubed in the Fall, and on the threads or where the nut meets the rim? Everybody seems to have a different opinion in the readings on this so I didn't bother, gambled & lost!
:-(

 

I would do the job myself. I had a few old chevies that I over-torqued a few times. It's a fairly simple repair. And worst case, you waste 1-2 hours of your time if it's beyond your mechanical abilities. You aren't exactly gonna break anything attempting the repair.


it's a bit more difficult since you are 4x4 though...sucks. a 4x2 is easier



pop the tire off, remove the brake caliper, remove the rotor. see if there is clearance to get the old stud out, install new stud.get a big hammer/chisel and drive that old stud out. then insert the new stud and use the new lugnut to pull the stud up and seated...I usually used a 1" drive socket as the spacer for something that the lug nut could snug up against


you'll need 2 things for sure: new stud, new lugnut....might need a new castle nut for hub if there isn't enough clearance.


Hope the following helps out.

 

I remove the caliper and mounting bracket. Then using a large C-clamp and a socket and a bolt, I place the socket so that when I crank the clamp down on the bolt that is aligned on the broken stud it will press the stud back into the socket and pop it out. Now you can insert the new stud and using the lug nut with the flat side against the rotor draw the stud into the hub by tightening it up.

 

Turus has a very good explaination. Mine differs only in that my hub was within warranty so I merely pulled the hub, replaced the inner and outer bearings and seal. The antilock signal disk would have otherwise had to be removed to retrive the head of the broken stud if I were to keep the hub.

This is not a hard job.

I usually take the time to clean and repack the bearings, lubricate the brake pins and re-torque everything back to specs.

Why did my stud break??? I suspect it was defective, these are quite stout and should never break under normal highway conditions. That said, off-road use increases the load and stresses on such a stud.