1995 F150 4x4 U Joint Replacement Questions
#1
1995 F150 4x4 U Joint Replacement Questions
I really need to get crackin on my 1995 F150. I'm sure it will snow when I least expect it and I will be screwed. The previous owner told me that the front driveshaft u-joints click when in 4wd. I haven't had time to fully investigate it. Do u-joints have to be very worn out to click? Could I tell which set is worn out by moving the driveshaft? If the u-joints are worn, how hard is it to change those out? Is it something I could attempt in my garage without air tools or something I would have to take to the shop?
With the rear end being an open 3.55, I'm worried that I will put this off until its too late. The weather here in Nebraska is really unpredictable, and its getting to that time of year again.
Thanks to everybody for their input! And oh yeah,
With the rear end being an open 3.55, I'm worried that I will put this off until its too late. The weather here in Nebraska is really unpredictable, and its getting to that time of year again.
Thanks to everybody for their input! And oh yeah,
#2
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Cook Forest and Irwin PA
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if you have a ujoint/bearing driver tool its actually pretty easy to remove them.
IIRC all for ujoints of that vintage are retained in the ears on the outside of the cup, ur under the ears. I do not remember seeing any with the plastic lock
resist the urge to buy 'super heavy duty' anything that is non greasable. it is better to get 'chinese made greasable'. You WILL get water in there. It WILL rust - fresh grease is the only defense.
IIRC all for ujoints of that vintage are retained in the ears on the outside of the cup, ur under the ears. I do not remember seeing any with the plastic lock
resist the urge to buy 'super heavy duty' anything that is non greasable. it is better to get 'chinese made greasable'. You WILL get water in there. It WILL rust - fresh grease is the only defense.
#3
well u-joints are actually allowed a fair ammount of wiggle room before they reed replacement but since they are clicking im gonna say replace em...best way to do it IMO for the front driveshaft is simply pull the driveshaft slap it in a vice and hammer away as they CAN be a biotch sometimes...shouldnt need any tools other than a can of good penetrating lube a vice and a ball peen hammer helps...or a big punch of some sort
#4
That doesn't sound too bad. So I wouldn't have to take anything out to get to the front driveshaft? The Haynes manual simply says to unbolt the u-bolts and pry the u-joints out of the yoke with a prybar. I don't have a vise at home, but I have a few hammers and punches. I have lots a PB Blaster too.
#6
Well, I finally had some time to take a look at the front axle. The bearing caps on the front axle u-joints were totally gone! The u-joint is just flopping around in the yoke . As I turned the front axle, it had about 2" of play. Both ends went "clunk" as they moved around in the yoke. I have never seen this before.
All of the other u-joints were fine. I bought 3 new greasable u-joints for the front axle. I'm just going to replace them all while I'm down there.
How hard is it to get those u-joints out? The undercarriage is pretty rusty. I may just have a shop do it, as I do not have access to air tools and a lift.
Any suggestions?
All of the other u-joints were fine. I bought 3 new greasable u-joints for the front axle. I'm just going to replace them all while I'm down there.
How hard is it to get those u-joints out? The undercarriage is pretty rusty. I may just have a shop do it, as I do not have access to air tools and a lift.
Any suggestions?
#7
Join Date: Jun 2006
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#8
Have been wondering if I should change the U Joints on my 91 F150. When I'm under the truck there isn't any slack when I try to turn the drive shaft by hand. I don't necessarily notice any clunking when I release the clutch either. Should I just change them or would I probably be OK to grease them and forget about it?
#10
Join Date: Jun 2006
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It's far more common for the front drive system u-joints to dry up and sieze from lack of use than to wear out. Of course if an older truck is pushed into heavy 4wd use after the joints sieze they will eventually spit all the bearings out of the joints and then they will be loose, but the siezing usually happens first. Unfortunately there is only 1 real way to know if the joints are dry and that's to take the driveshaft or axle section out and see if the joint moves freely.
P.S. When the front alxe joints are in good shape there will be no noticable noise, vibration, or drag when engaged at any speed under 50mph.
P.S. When the front alxe joints are in good shape there will be no noticable noise, vibration, or drag when engaged at any speed under 50mph.
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