You need to get the code ....

You can unscrew the Oil pressure sending unit & look at the oil level there ..

 

Humm, what is the part number on the MAP sensor? Some gas MAP senders will plug right in but work on vacuum instead of boost. Unplug the hose on the gasser MAP sensor and PCM is very happy with output .. it is in spec !! It just does not do anything.

 

you are supposed to unplug the sensor, not the hose..... and you need to get the icp and ipr readings under load when it wont go anymore. have you checked fuel pressure while it acts up?

what you are describing sounds liek either a lack of fuel, or a lack of high pressure oil

 

Negative .. he unplug the hose to the MAP and the CEL went away. This tells me it is defiantly a MAP sensor issue IMO. Some Ford Gas MAP sensors will plug right in and if the hose is disconnected they will put an output frequency of 110 HZ. At that frequency the PCM is happy therefore no CELL.

 

Hussler,I'm not near my truck so I can't give you the part#. I've tried all different scenarios with the original and the new map sensor with no noticible difference.

Coon, I'm gonna take it to the local diesel shop tommorrow and have them put it on the scanner for me. With tuner set to stock it will puff black smoke if you rev it up to 2000rpms. Get to 2500 rpms it pours out blue/white smoke pops farts and will sometimes clear up and go to redline.

The injector rebuild went fine,install went good,all injectors seated as I believe they should.?????????

 

that is exactly how my truck runs

 

We've both got a problem then.lol. If I get it figured out I will surely let you know.

 

ya thank you stuck 2400. in it last nov and never got it runing right yet been working night and day two job's and no time to fix it or try

 

imo if your getting white smoke after the engine is warmed up you have some more serious problems, white smoke is raw un burt fuel, within a few mins of running you should not get white smoke it should be at least getting partialy Burt thus black smoke. unless its blue smoke from dumping lots of oil into one of the cyl i would get an compression test done.

 

what color is your map sensor? black or grey? i misread the post about the unhooked line. if you unplugged the hose and the light goes out then you have an issue there. that could be all of your problem. when it gets scanned read the pid data on the map sensor- key on engine off, engine idle, and wide open throttle through the gears.

putz and opt's trucks issues are runnning together and i'm getting them mixed up...

 

To me it almost sounds like you don't have an injector or two seated properly, or you tore one of the o-rings when installing them...

 

otp, it may be a compression issue. Bump to remind people for your other thread. Or maybe I'd get a map off a known running truck and try it.

 

Optracer how do you plumb directly into the HPOP I need to run this test on my truck. ?
I don't think white smoke would indicate unburend fuel you may have a problem with coolant in th ecombustion chamber. Try a compression test maybe and isolate one cylinder maybe the o-rings didn't seal?
Larry

 

Some reading :...

It explains how to build a guage setup fpr testing....

thanks to Swamps Diesel site.

How to check if my HPOP is good

There are 2 ways to measure the oil pump's performance.

If you have access to a scantool, hook it up to the trucks OBD connector, and go to the "datastream"...scroll through the sensor values, until you find ICP (or injection control pressure)...this is your HPOP's "oil pressure".

***NOTE: if you are running any kind of "box" such as the "Edge EZ" or the "Banks Six Gun" you either have to remove the aftermarket jumper harness/plug at the ICP sensor, and reconnect the factory harness by itself. If you are running a home made "10k mod", etc...which plugs/taps into the ICP sensor wires (or connector pins), you will have to remove it as well, or proceed with getting the parts together to run the mechanical gauge, as the scantool will not receive accurate data from the ICP sensor if its signal is being modified from any one of thes "ICP foolers".

To test the HPOP's output, you will be looking on the scantool for the line labeled "ICP" and it's units should be in psi not volts. Some scantools measure ICP in kPa (kilopascals) which you can convert to psi after you take your measurement in kPa.

1kpa = 0.145psi

(for example 19,310kPa = 2800 psi)

Put your chip in its' highest setting, and go out on the interstate (while having someone watch the ICP value on the datastream) and start at about 60mph...

FLOOR the pedal, and stay in it, 100% from ~60-90mph...what you're likely to see (on the scantool) is that the ICP will spike up rather quickly, to 2800-3000psi or so, and then the longer you stay in the pedal...the ICP will slowly drop and drop and drop...the ICP will eventually stabilize (stop dropping).

WHERE the ICP levels off can be some indication as to the condition of your HPOP.

If your truck can maintain 2800+psi then you are one of the FEW folks that have a terrific HPOP.

I would estimate that 90% of the Power Strokes can only maintain ~2200(+/- 200)psi of HPOP pressure, or ICP...5% are above 2600, the other 5% are below 1900psi...


depending on how low (or high) of ICP you are able to maintain will greatly affect which model of injector I would recommend.

If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60 or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more valuable than you think.

The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for (minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.

You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the head to the hose.

This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called # 5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90. Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90

"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.

Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle, cracked, etc...

The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes, etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90 from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight...check for leaks prior to getting too far from home...

run the hose, away from moving parts, electrically conductive junk (like batteries, glow plug relay, starter relays, etc) ..and just route the hose up through the cowl toward the windshield...for short term testing purposes, we just lay the gauge up under a windsheild wiper, and go drive...testing it just like I describes previously...chip in the highest setting, floor the truck, etc....

If you can maintain 2800+ psi of ICP, then any injector 250cc's and under will perform exceptionally well.

If you can maintain 2400psi then that's not bad, not great either.

2200psi is mediocre, and full performance from any injector will not be achieved with that HPOP, though power WILL go up with nearly any injector, driveability (excessive smoke) might be an issue.

If you cannot maintain 1900psi, you might seriously consider an aftermarket dual HPOP system, or our Gen3 HPOP. Nearly any larger injector is going to make the truck feel sluggish, and smoke excessively.

 

Well here is the deal guys. The shop finally got to my truck and it is the IDM that crapped the bed. They put an IDM off a running truck on mine and took it down the road and said it runs really strong. Sooo any idea where I can get an IDM for under the $800 they want to charge me? I'm gonna check e-bay right now but other suggestions are appreciated. Thanks

Dave