We've got the engine out of the '55, have the new front springs ready to go in and am cleaning the crud. Any tips on what to paint the undercarriage with? I'm limited in my tools, space, etc. - and of course, there's the Mrs. who wants to know when I'll be cleaning up the garage....

erinaldi
'55 F100 IL6

 

Eastwood has a painting tool that looks like it'll work. I plan on trying it out myself. It's called Spra-Tool. It's a cup filled spray can, similar to what you would use to spray the garden with. Otherwise the old stand-by chassis black by Eastwood in spray can form works, too. But if you want it to last, then steps needed to clean and de-rust the frame are needed. (POR15 for instance)

 

I wire brushed mine with a drill and put POR 15 on it like Havi mentioned above the POR can be applied with a paint brush but you have to get all the loose dirt & rust off. After the wire brushing I used a cleaner to get all the residue off; however, if left in direct sunlight the POR 15 will look sorta like a rainbow in places. There are some pics in my frame swap gallery.

 

I used a twisted wire wheel on my 4'' angle grinder to clean all the rust off my frame. Then shot it with Rustoleum flat black in a rattle can took 6 cans at $3.98 a can. Cheap but turned out lookin great.

 

Eastwood Rust Encapsulator works well too. Used it on a number of chassis parts.

 

There's a product called "Chassis Saver" (click on the name to take you to the website). It's like Por 15 but a LOT less expensive, and doesn't use 2 or 3 different products to make sure it works. I used it on mine, and it's nothing short of nice. Very hard, covers well, then you can rattle can over the top of that, with black. Like ALL rust encapsulators, UV rays can turn it gray, so you want to top coat it with color. A gallon should do the frame no problem, as it costs almost as much for 2 quarts, as a gallon. I still have almost 1/2 of a gallon, after painting the frame, springs, most of the interior of the cab, and under the cab. I keep the leftover in the fridge, and it's 8 months old, has been opened probably 10-15 times, and is still as good as the day I bought it. I can't recommend it enough.





R

 

Paint really doesn't care how it is applied, as long as the surface is prepped well.

I like the Por15 stuff, but it's expensive, but self levels itself when brushed on. Also have used Zero Rust, but left a lot of brush strokes on my smooth 9inch housing whick I'll have to sand down at some point.

Good thing about brushing is there's zero wasted and minimal cleanup...but takes longer than spraying.

regardless, the key to it lasting is a good prep job.

 

i like zerorust in spray cans it last long and leaves a nice satin black look.....

 

I'm using rustolem in a can, brushed on. It's sold at walmart for about $10 a quart. It does leave some brush strokes, but nothing too bad. If you thin it a little with acetone it levels better. 1 can did my whole frame.

 

yeah im using rustolem also i bought a gallon for like 40 bucks i think at walmart and like stated earlier it may leave brush strokes but a second coat helps that out

 

zero rust works good. buy it in aerosol cans or quarts. spray on if in quarts never have brushed on

 

If you have a good shop in your location that would do it for a good price, you cannot go wrong with having it powdercoated.

 

Ditto the brushing, and I didn't mention, that the chassis above was brushed. NO brush marks or lap marks at all, I was very surprised that it flowed out as well as it did. The pics are before spraying black catalyzed enamel over it.

Still like the chassis saver, both for ease of use, and the price.

R

 

I like Krylon Semi-Flat Rust Tough black. Looks just like the satin black finish that comes on new parts from the factory and wears like iron.

 

I've used Chassis Saver on a few parts, very tough, but some brush marks. I've already painted my frame the same yellow the sheetmetal will be, and I used single stage urethane for that, but if I had to do it again, here's what I would do. My local Big R ranch store carries tractor paint in quarts, gallons and spray cans. I've used the spray cans for small parts. It's alittle slow to dry, which they say is due to the high solids, but once dry it's very tough with a decent finish. It's comes in several colors, including black, and is reasonably priced.