clicking sound
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Los Angeles
clicking sound
hi all -
When driving, I have a clicking sound that may be coming somewhere right side engine/tranny only when WOT. When in Park and rev steady at 3000rpm no clicking sound. It seems only on load. I've checked engine mounts and the nuts on the flex plate. no luck. any help wiil do. thanks
When driving, I have a clicking sound that may be coming somewhere right side engine/tranny only when WOT. When in Park and rev steady at 3000rpm no clicking sound. It seems only on load. I've checked engine mounts and the nuts on the flex plate. no luck. any help wiil do. thanks
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Senior User
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From: Los Angeles
I can try the lucas oil. It won't hurt. but don't think that's it. Being that the fordracing crate motor only has about less than 10,000.
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I had a very similar noise in my 79, and I come to find out, that my flexplate was cracked 3/4 of the way around! Here is how I swapped it out in 5 hours of work!
1. remove all bolts from the transmission to the cross-member & transfer case mounts. Don't remove the cross-member out of the truck. Let the trans continue to sit on it and hold the weight.
2. remove both drive shafts.
3. get a transmission jack that is on wheels and jack it up to the transfer case.
4. get some 3 or 4 inch bolts to replace the bell housing bolts with - this way you do not loose the lineup of the motor and transmission.
5. unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate.
6. disconnect the transmission oil lines & shift linkage.
7. split the motor and transmission apart. you should have enough room to get up, and unbolt the flexplate off of the crank!
just as an FYI, if you do have to do this, be aware that the bolt holes on the flexplate will only line up ONE WAY on the crank! Getting these holes lined up, is the hardest part of this job.
1. remove all bolts from the transmission to the cross-member & transfer case mounts. Don't remove the cross-member out of the truck. Let the trans continue to sit on it and hold the weight.
2. remove both drive shafts.
3. get a transmission jack that is on wheels and jack it up to the transfer case.
4. get some 3 or 4 inch bolts to replace the bell housing bolts with - this way you do not loose the lineup of the motor and transmission.
5. unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate.
6. disconnect the transmission oil lines & shift linkage.
7. split the motor and transmission apart. you should have enough room to get up, and unbolt the flexplate off of the crank!
just as an FYI, if you do have to do this, be aware that the bolt holes on the flexplate will only line up ONE WAY on the crank! Getting these holes lined up, is the hardest part of this job.
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Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
I had a very similar noise in my 79, and I come to find out, that my flexplate was cracked 3/4 of the way around! Here is how I swapped it out in 5 hours of work!
1. remove all bolts from the transmission to the cross-member & transfer case mounts. Don't remove the cross-member out of the truck. Let the trans continue to sit on it and hold the weight.
2. remove both drive shafts.
3. get a transmission jack that is on wheels and jack it up to the transfer case.
4. get some 3 or 4 inch bolts to replace the bell housing bolts with - this way you do not loose the lineup of the motor and transmission.
5. unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate.
6. disconnect the transmission oil lines & shift linkage.
7. split the motor and transmission apart. you should have enough room to get up, and unbolt the flexplate off of the crank!
just as an FYI, if you do have to do this, be aware that the bolt holes on the flexplate will only line up ONE WAY on the crank! Getting these holes lined up, is the hardest part of this job.
1. remove all bolts from the transmission to the cross-member & transfer case mounts. Don't remove the cross-member out of the truck. Let the trans continue to sit on it and hold the weight.
2. remove both drive shafts.
3. get a transmission jack that is on wheels and jack it up to the transfer case.
4. get some 3 or 4 inch bolts to replace the bell housing bolts with - this way you do not loose the lineup of the motor and transmission.
5. unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate.
6. disconnect the transmission oil lines & shift linkage.
7. split the motor and transmission apart. you should have enough room to get up, and unbolt the flexplate off of the crank!
just as an FYI, if you do have to do this, be aware that the bolt holes on the flexplate will only line up ONE WAY on the crank! Getting these holes lined up, is the hardest part of this job.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 108
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My uncle actually said the he had his race car do the same thing. He figured he had spun a bearing, or something like that in the bottom end. Pulled the motor, and found the flexplate cracked. I figured, what the hell. I split the motor and trans as stated above, and found the same condition! If you would like, I can take a picture of it! I painted the flexplate, and it is hanging on the wall in my bar!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 172
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From: Los Angeles
My uncle actually said the he had his race car do the same thing. He figured he had spun a bearing, or something like that in the bottom end. Pulled the motor, and found the flexplate cracked. I figured, what the hell. I split the motor and trans as stated above, and found the same condition! If you would like, I can take a picture of it! I painted the flexplate, and it is hanging on the wall in my bar!
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 108
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It was the stock flexplate the I cracked... ******* me put another stock one in, so I guess I will see if I crack that one... My motor is only building 350 horse, unlike my uncle's which is running close to a 1,000...
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