The chart says that it's 67.10" from wheel face to wheel face of the inner duals. So you've got plenty of room to fit it on the trailer. Depending on the weight rating of the trailer, you might just let the outer duals hang over the edge. If you decide to take them off, I'd stand to one side and deflate them first. Keep in mind too that they've been on there a while and won't want to come off. Widow makers fail because of metal fatique, rust, and road damage. Anything that disturbs the rim's halves can create a separation. Imagine how much depends upon the integrity of those two connecting rim edges as shown in the above cross section.

 

I'll probably end up removing the outer wheels on my uncle's trucks as I go get them, and I'll post back here how it goes if I survive, lol. Not to hijack, but anyone care to say how big the lug nuts are so I can bring the proper tools with me?

 

My advice to you since I have hauled these trucks from New England to Ohio. When you take off the back wheels still pull the truck on forward. You need the weight on the tongue and not the back of the trailer. I just hauled a 68 N600 from Virginia Beech to Cleveland area back on because of the width of the front wheels. I was good up to 50 mph but the trailer got the wiggles at over 50. I had wheel wells that I could not take off.

 

Scott- Same 3/4 x 16, LH and RH thread. Only difference is there's eight of 'em on each corner. It's an inch and a half socket. Stu

 

I assume these are 3 piece rims? I would suspect these are a little bit safer than the WM's?

 

Not much I can tell from the pic, Scott. Except that it's not a WM. Here are diagrams of what Budd lists as available for F-7/8s having an 8 lug x 10" circle pattern.

The first is from a 1949 listing showing the Firestone R-5° profile. The name is real similar to the RH-5° but they are different entirely. From what I've read the three piece designs were used on the heaviest models to allow the side ring to move with the tire bead rather than chafe the tire as could happen with a two piece "lock ring" design.

Next is the Goodyear LW-LBW profile. It will be a split lock ring design.

Next is the R-5° again but from Budd's 1954 listing. By then they'd changed the designs for different width rims. Just in case you've got replacement wheels on the truck. Stu

 

I work for a salvage yard and we got a 1952 Ford F-6 in fair condition. It runs and drives, but needs brakes. It has an 8 cylinder engine. The body has a few spots where it is rusted right through, but I have seen worse on trucks that are only 10 years old. My boss asked me to come up with a price. I came up with $3500, because this is NJ and people always try to talk the price down. This price is to allow me room to negotiate. Any ideas on what price I should be asking. I have little knowledge about the trucks Ford made, back when they actually built things to last. I can post pictures of it if anyone wants. I am not trying to sell it here, I am just trying to figure out a good price so it doesn't end up as scrap metal.

 

Welcome to FTE

Definitely help to see pics. If it runs that makes all the difference.

 

Here are some of the pictures I took.

 

Thanks for the pics, thanks for signing up. Not an authority, like you mentioned 3.5k may be a stretch, but it will get a good price to the right buyer. Hopefully somebody will chime in.

 

Honestly, I'd shoot for $1800 tops. It needs about everything. Not much love for the big trucks from the hobby side of the market.

 

Thank you for the information. I will shoot for 2200, so people can talk me down. It is unbelievable here. I have running cars that drive and need a little work for $799 bottom line price and people still try to talk us down by half. Cars of similar years with more miles, are going for a lot more.

 

I believe that is a script bed. If the bed frame has in raised script in the center of the rear bed member, it would probably help to mention that and bed length in your advertisement. Anyone interested in refurbishing that truck would be interested in detail pictures of the cab floors at the door posts, rear cab corners, and lower door edges. Top of the cab would be another area of interest. Any condition of the engine that is known will help value the truck. BTW, that is one fancy wiring system.
I see that truck as a cab donor for a smaller truck and at much less money that you had first mentioned.
Thanks for posting and good luck with the sale.

 

Thank you for the info. It is now posted at $2000 with room to negotiate. I hope it sells. I did post more pictures in the actual ad. I didn't want to put too many pics on the post here. Too crowded. I can post more if you want them. Thanks again.

 

Those stakes and boards look original.