Two issues and do not know if they are related.

1. Would an 182,000 mile oxygen sensor cause it to run rough? I am still getting rough running at 1,700 rpm, 35 mph, light throttle. Everything has been replaced ignition wise except the ignition switch, PCU, MAP and oxygen sensor. Highway speeds are smooth. Did Heet, IsoHeat in last tank then StaBil in this tank. It is a weekend driver. Was a little rich until I replaced, ACT, ECT, IAC, TPS. Exhaust pipe is cleaning up now and very little smell. Most driving is on highway towing trailer.

2. Still get intermittent, occasional stall and restart in about thirty minutes and code 211 in continuous memory. Swapping ICM when stalled does not start it and KOEO codes show 111 when stalled. KOEO and KOER codes are 111. CM is 211, loss of PIP. Distributor has been replaced three times. Connectors, grounds and harness all good. Fuel pressure is 30 psi idle, 35 when I punch the throttle. Get 42, drops to 39 when the key is first turned on and the pump stops in a second. Run engine then turn engine off and pressure goes from 30 to 40 PSI in sixty seconds and holds it for 10+ minutes. Do you think the idle, 30 psi pressure, is low causing the light throttle rough running? Timing is at 11 btdc. spout out, warmed up because the engine runs better there.

All thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

When to change the O2 sensor" Well I would say it needs to be changed out when you do a conplete tune up and sense you have changed about everything else, go ahead and change it out. I have heard that the O2's should be changed out at 60k miles.

 

If it runs OK on the highway but stumbles a bit at lower speeds, then it's likely not the fuel pressure, although those numbers are a little on the low side. You may want to keep an eye on the pressure and replace the pump if it drops much lower.

Did you reset the computer after changing the sensors? It needs to re-learn the tolerances of any new sensors you install.

And yes, an O2 sensor can cause this, but normally you will get a code for it.

 

i would also change o2 as well.

how do your plugs look? has the fuel filter been changed out?

 

Thanks guys.

I suspected the oxygen sensor replacement was long over due. It is the next project. No codes on it. No codes on the other sensors either and they still worked, like me, just not as good as originally, so replaced them.

Codes were cleared with the code reader and checked after cleared for 111.

Copper Motorcraft plugs had great color when replaced recently along with the four sensors. Two plugs had a little dry carbon. When replacing wires months before I found two bad wires and they could have been on those same two plugs. Replaced with copper Motorcraft gapped to .0051 for the MSD blaster and 9mm wires.

Fuel filter was changed about 7,000 miles ago, I think. I thought it was suspect under highway speeds and not affect light throttle? The stalling occurs both at idle and highway and recently after going in for a hamburger it would not start for about 20 minutes. Stalling now happens in the 80's when it used to have to be in the 90's.

I'll replace the O2 Sunday during the Ike rain.

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated. The more the better.

 

check your tfi module, these can cause a no start issue on hot days

 

I now have four TFI (ICM) modules. My ignition system (CCD) likes the black ones. Gray ones give a 212 code and get too hot to touch. In the last stall I swapped another black one in which can be done without tools with the remote mounted one. I just connected it and let it swing. Previous test worked fine like that. Still no start until 20-30 minutes.

Could the ignition swich act that way?