Took my truck in today to Lucore Auto in Columbus Ohio to have it looked at. Still not running right. No codes, but doesnt have any oomph. What used to take about 6psi of boost to do now takes 12 to 14, so obviously there is an issue. They checked it out, and my up pipes are leaking/cracked, so need them replaced. They also showed me the exhaust manifolds, both have a small amout of soot/exhaust leak on the exhaust manifolds, none of the bolts are broken though. Also, I have a small amount of oil on the back passenger side of the block.

They say it needs the exhaust manifolds replaced, along with the Up Pipe, take the top of the motor apart and reseal the HPOP, and fix my leak. Does any of that sound right? Sounds like they recommend my oil cooler being replaced(even though my deltas are no worse than 12° even when towing 10k) since they say the intake has to come off. They dont have an exact number but just exhaust mainifolds and exhaust is around $2000, and to do it all is around $5000. How bad is that price? Im IRRITATED as hell! I dont want to do it, but what do I do? Do these things have exhaust manifold issues? I dont kmow how much it actually leaks oil, when i change it every 5k it never shows down from where its filled to, so it can't be more than a cup or two every oil change I dont think. But the back passenger side of the block is wet with oil, and you can see it wet on the top of the back of the engine when looking up the passenger side. Drives side looks ok.

While its apart that far, what else do I have done? Money is a factor but want to do it right, and not have to do something else in 5 to 10 thousand more miles. I have to say while i love my Excursion, and when normally towing, its a beast! But its becoming a serious money pit. I can't afford a new truck for sure! I just got my wife a new Volvo XC90 so....Im stuck fixing it, so anything that should be done?

Thank you for your help!

 

Not feeling the love.

Manifold replacement depends on the amount of rust. Otherwise, they can warp and not seal well, the aftermarket solution is to use exhaust manifold gaskets; factory is no gaskets.

I don't care for the automatic oil cooler replacement if the oil-coolant differential is good. HPOP cover oil leak - I'd prefer seeing that proved with dye in the oil. The GP harness could be more likely.

Best I can tell thought the computer screen.

 

Thank you! I will check on getting dye put in it, and have ot checked. I didnt know anything about the possibility of the glow plug harness leaking. Will have it checked for sure.

I was told about some aftermarket exhaust mainifolds that are suppose to be better than factory ones that have gaskets. Was told they are the same price as OEM ones.

 

When my 6.0PSD lacked power it was because the EGR valve was clogged with soot. May want to pop it out and inspect/clean it.

 

Wonder where the leaks on the up-pipes are? At the clamps, or holes in them? Maybe they only need to be adjusted?

Can you see soot staining anywhere?

 

Yes i saw soot on the flexible bellows area...on two of them, there are three total for what i could tell. Ive attached a pic of what they look like, or the style of them. Not sure what the factory put on? Not sure which styles are best? I can also see soot on the exhaust manifold/ head on drivers side back cylinder #8, and on the back one on passenger side #4. They told me to machine mine down to make flat or put on factory ones are the same cost as the recommended aftermarket ones. Does that sound right? I dont remember what they recommend for the aftermarket ones with gaskets?

 

Since it is gonna be that far apart, should i replace the HPOP? Anything else? Just shy if 300k and want to stop hemorrhaging money.(If i were only so lucky!)

 

If oil is not hitting the ground and you are not losing any on the stick I would not worry about that. If your deltas are 12* pulling 10,000 pounds how can the oil cooler be bad? Sure is easy for some to spend others money. I would go to a trusted muffler shop and get a free estimate/evaluation. Also check the known boost loss components. Here is video by DTR checking the system.

 

Since the bellows are leaking, it is time for new ones. I don't know anymore what are good ones and what aren't. You might start a new thread on that.

Last I heard, these guys had a great product (if I were to choose for myself, I would probably try these guys).
CONTACT THEM FOR YOUR YEAR MODEL:
https://leftlanediesels.com/products...piece-up-pipes

Also heard that DieselSite sold nice ones, but that was a LONG time ago.
https://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsit...eduppipes.aspx

Elite Diesel had a product people liked, but ELITE seems to be out of business, but I BELIEVE that the same product is available at Rudy's Diesel.
https://rudysdiesel.com/i-30515191?q=Y+Pipe#!model%3D6.0L%7C%7Cmake%3DPOWERS TROKE%7C%7Cyear%3D2006

BD Diesel had some good ones (I would contact them for assurance on your year model also):
https://us.bddiesel.com/products/6-0l-powerstroke-uppipes-kit-w-egr-connector-ford-2003-2004?variant=40920984617143

The MBRP ones - some liked, some had fitment issues.

Regarding the exhaust manifolds - If it were me, I would try removing one and just re-installing with the gasket (Jack's point). I put the gaskets in at 100k miles and no issues since (at 240k). That said, you could have cracks, excess warping from higher heat, we just can't know for sure from "here". I would probably try the titanium exhaust manifold bolts though, but I am a sucker for the higher end stuff sometimes (if the price is right).

Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
6C3Z-9448-A
Fel Pro MS96833

https://bulletproofdiesel.com/produc...bolts-90100043

 

If you can do the work yourself, you will save big bucks. $450 in parts for the Y pipe. Exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets $100.
Live with the oil leak .... free

That said, the exhaust manifold bolts need to be removed with some care and expertise.

I am sure that this community can offer some good tips .................

 

I would not necessarily replace the HPOP if it's working unless you are going to go with the better known (2) HPOPs for durability.

Probably the big factor here is based on if you can do the work, which may not be valid since you've already taken the truck to a shop.

 

I guess I'll jump on the bandwagon on the oil cooler also (just so you get hit with 3 barrels instead of just the two big barrels already fired at you above):

If yours is doing well, why would you change it out!!?? Under 15 degrees when towing??? That is great!

 

Regarding oil leakage - I have had some since day 1 (16 + years ago).
Always a hanging drop.
Always a mess on the bell housing and around the front side of the oil pan (doesn't take long after cleaning to be covered again).
None on the driveway.
.
.
.
I live with it (happily, I might add).

 

Oh - and the #1 reason for bellows to begin leaking is because they were installed in a "bind". JMHO anyway.

 

Looks like the BD Diesel are the most common "upgraded" manifold. Riff Raff appears to have the best price on them:
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/bd-di...ust-manifolds/

OEM manifolds:
LEFT MANIFOLD (Driver) 3C3Z-9431-AB - $142
RIGHT MANIFOLD (Passenger) 3C3Z-9430-AB - $105

https://www.tascaparts.com/search?se...fold&ptid=5860

OEM parts
Exhaust Manifold Spacers - 3C3Z-9A461-AA
Exhaust Manifold Bolts - 3C3Z-9S425-AA

Apply High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant (F6AZ-9L494-AA) to threads of bolts prior to assembly.
Exhaust manifold.......................................28 lbf/ft
Exhaust manifold flange (to up pipe).........20 lbf/ft