How To: 6.0L CCV Re-route
#122
#123
#125
Looking for some input on this as well
Has anyone used any of the oil catch cans sold on eBay?
Some from $20 and up, they have a 1/2" in/out ports.
Would it be ok if a 1" bushing is installed to fit our 1" hose from crank case n back to air duct?
Would you consider bushing down from 1" to a 1/2" and back out to 1" cause a significant restriction on the system?
Thanks
2006 F250, EGR deleted w/ new oil cooler, coolant filter, oil recirculating filter, 4" turbo back pipe, CAT-ECL1 coolant, ECT tow/egr delete tune, blue spring, Rotella 5w40 + Rev-X oil AND just after my recent oil change white smokes during warm up and the whole trip taking my boy to school
My mechanic said it's a glowplug but is getting worse, it starts/idles good, lots of power and by the time I get to work smoke is gone.
Could this be also related to CCV?
Thanks for your help
Some from $20 and up, they have a 1/2" in/out ports.
Would it be ok if a 1" bushing is installed to fit our 1" hose from crank case n back to air duct?
Would you consider bushing down from 1" to a 1/2" and back out to 1" cause a significant restriction on the system?
Thanks
2006 F250, EGR deleted w/ new oil cooler, coolant filter, oil recirculating filter, 4" turbo back pipe, CAT-ECL1 coolant, ECT tow/egr delete tune, blue spring, Rotella 5w40 + Rev-X oil AND just after my recent oil change white smokes during warm up and the whole trip taking my boy to school
My mechanic said it's a glowplug but is getting worse, it starts/idles good, lots of power and by the time I get to work smoke is gone.
Could this be also related to CCV?
Thanks for your help
I purchased my truck new and hopefully I have maintained it well enough... Around 25k miles I flushed coolant, added elc and bypass filter... It has had about 15 or more dino oil changes since new... I recently switched to rotella t6 on my last oil change... Currently truck is still completely stock and just shy of 37k miles... Knock on wood but the only issue I have had was the original tires showing dryness on sidewalls after only about 10 years , lol, so replaced them with Michelin...
So I ordered two of those cans yesterday before reading this thread and plan on running them side by side on frame... Instead of the black hose everyone is using I will be using 1" ID clear reinforced pvc tubing to and from the cans so that I can watch what is going on through the lines... A 1 inch coupling will be used on the original ccv hose to connect the pvc line... I will keep an eye on them to make sure they hold up or start to kink and if need be i will replace with better hose... They are oil resistant 125psi and good up to 170degrees...The one inch tubing will tee off right at the two filter cans on frame using half inch barbs...
So your original question was if a can would work, well I don't know if that restriction would cause issues using one can but with two cans teed together there will be no restriction...But if that turbo bung is only half inch ID, I don't know if having a one inch hose would be necessary... I am just going to use one inch...
Those aluminum cans are on flebay for as low as $15 shipped... I got the square ones with removable top and bottom as I wanted to inspect the inside of them...
#126
IMO 1 " hose is necessary - because of the length of hose required.
It is all about TOTAL pressure drop and you don't have much pressure loss in a short section of 5/8" line (as long as it is very short).
Many people think that a one inch in length section of 5/8" diameter hose/line is the same as 10 feet of 5/8" diameter hose/line. Far from it. The longer the run, the larger the hose needed.
It is all about TOTAL pressure drop and you don't have much pressure loss in a short section of 5/8" line (as long as it is very short).
Many people think that a one inch in length section of 5/8" diameter hose/line is the same as 10 feet of 5/8" diameter hose/line. Far from it. The longer the run, the larger the hose needed.
The following users liked this post:
#127
IMO 1 " hose is necessary - because of the length of hose required.
It is all about TOTAL pressure drop and you don't have much pressure loss in a short section of 5/8" line (as long as it is very short).
Many people think that a one inch in length section of 5/8" diameter hose/line is the same as 10 feet of 5/8" diameter hose/line. Far from it. The longer the run, the larger the hose needed.
It is all about TOTAL pressure drop and you don't have much pressure loss in a short section of 5/8" line (as long as it is very short).
Many people think that a one inch in length section of 5/8" diameter hose/line is the same as 10 feet of 5/8" diameter hose/line. Far from it. The longer the run, the larger the hose needed.
I am thinking the 1" run to the cans will be anywhere between 5 and 7 feet for both in/out ccv lines. Not sure if that length would be safe to use smaller diameter for at least the return so I have the 1" for both runs
#129
Sorry but I'm going to have to say that is wrong. The pressure of the intake over time will destroy epoxy causing that cap to be sucked into the turbo. The correct method to insure that nothing EVER gets brought into the intake is using the piece that was originally in the intake and epoxy a cap "OVER" it.
I used a short 1 inch long bolt with fender washers put rtv me washers and tightened it up. Not coming out
#130
Has anyone had any issues with turbo seals since doing the ccv delete?
Crankcase Ventilation Modification is a Bad Idea -- Powerstrokehelp.com
Crankcase Ventilation Modification is a Bad Idea -- Powerstrokehelp.com
#132
It's not likely that the seals are going to "blow out". They are basically steel circlips or piston rings that act as labyrinth seal. If the modified ccv has a blockage of not sized properly, OK maybe it would then vent through the seal. Btw, never did this.
I can never watch that guy. He is a clone for an employee I inherited that would screw up everything he touched.
I can never watch that guy. He is a clone for an employee I inherited that would screw up everything he touched.
#133
#134
#135