I need some help from some of you who are much better than I am to figure this problem I have, I've look-up all over the net and can't find the answers.

I need to know what do I realy have as an engine;

My questions are;
what is it, 429 or 460 - CJ ??
How much HP and torque

Block casting #: DIVE-6015-A2B
Heads casting #: C9VE-A

I'm told it's a 429/CJ, not sure of that

What would be a good "tweak" I could do to this engine, cam? ports? don't want to spend to much, but a reasonable tweak would be nice.

Look forward to hearing back from some of you specialist!!!

Thanks.

 

Could be anything, without checking the crank numbers.
I have a DIVE block, internally balanced 460-fairly common truck engine.
I also have the C9VE-A heads, no they are not the CJ pieces that some books say, they are an older revision of the DOVE-C heads, still very good, for stock tho.
My guess is that it is a stock 460 short block, with some early 429 heads, and should be in the mid to high 9's for compression ratio.
If your familiar with cam timing, and take it apart-check to see if the cam timing is retarded(usual 72 + emission bandaid) or straight up-69/70 429/460's used this, and it helps power and mileage alot.
Smoothing out the exhaust ports usually helps, remove the thermactor bump, if the heads have it.
Other than that, it depends on real application=vehicle weight, usuage, transmission, gear ratio, etc.
Phone up a cam tech line, from one of the good brands, and get to know the 385's.
There is soo much info needed and out there, start searching-google is your friend.

 

My 429 is a Dove block, with C9VE heads(well, was originally)

 

C9VE heads could and were used on both 429 and 460 engines (same with the D0VE heads)

CJ and SCJ heads will be D0OE-R ONLY

 

the block is a 71 or up 429/460, the heads are 68-72. its NOT!! a cj engine but for the street and especially in a pickup the stock early 429 460 was better (more bottom end) in my oppinion.

there are 2 ways to tell if you have a 429 or a 460 the best way is to pull it apart and check the casting numbers on the crank ( i have them if you need) but the easiest way is to pull one spark plug and get a 3/8 wodden dowel. turn the engine by hand (long handle 1/2 ratchet) and mark on the dowel top dead center and bottom dead center. this tells you the stroke 3.59" = 429 3.85" = 460


being a d1ve block it has a 10.310 deck height opposed to a 10.300 of earlier years i think this will make it the low compression 429/460 8.0 (429) 8.5(460) putting the hp at 202 @ 4400 rpm 4v (429) and 224 @4400 rpm (460)

torque at 322 @ 2600 rpm 4v (429)
357 @2800 rpm (460)



if you are intrique buy these old eninges i would reccomend a book by george reid (high performance ford engine parts interchange. it has all the casting numbers from 221 CI to 460 CI

 

And I would strongly suggest being real careful taking everything in Reids book as gospel. he does things like Lump FE and 385 series engines together and has a lot of miss information in it but there is also a lot of good info you just have to learn to differentiate between them and to double check what you do read.

Oh and no all D1VE blocks were 10.310, only in 71, in 72 they went to 10.322. It depends on the suffix after the main part. D1VE-AA = 10.300, D1VE-A2A = 10.310, and D1VE-A2B = 10.322 IIRC

 

very interesting, thank you.

Do you have any recomendations for books for myself?

-josh

 

So far all the books on any of the ford engines and especially on both the 335 and 385 series engines seem to have a lot of misinformation. I am not really sure except to say that the guys that are writting them are more chev guys even if good engine builders and are relying on urban myths and other sources. They all have some good info, just when it comes to things like casting numbers there seems to always be a lot of mistakes is all.

I do know of at least 2 guys I would trust writting books about the 429/460s and about the performance parts available both factory and aftermarket but so far neither one has finished them. When they do and are published I will post info about them.

 

[QUOTE=gingerbreadmaniac;6542664] ..............................being a d1ve block it has a 10.310 deck height opposed to a 10.300 of earlier years i think this will make it the low compression 429/460 8.0 (429) 8.5(460) putting the hp at 202 @ 4400 rpm 4v (429) and 224 @4400 rpm (460)

torque at 322 @ 2600 rpm 4v (429)
357 @2800 rpm (460) /QUOTE]

The horsepower drop was due to the rating system changing as much or more than the compression drop. Instead of rating with no water pump, alternator, nothing but an engine like pre 1972. They rated the engines wih water pump, alternator, air pump, etc installed and in some cases even rated the engine at the rear wheels.

 

the block is a cj block out of the torino's and mustang in the early 70's. the heads are great, they come with 2.09 valves and no exhaust hums, so they flow great build that motor, its stock 10.5 to one with stock flat top pistons.

 

ford_highboy you might want to do a little researching before posting stuff like that. It's been beaten to death already and what he has is just fine for a build but it is NOT A CJ. the block is NOT a CJ block. a very few of the CJ blocks had a D1VE casting but DARN few of them did, most were D0VE-A blocks just like all the rest of the passenger car blocks. Actually you are partially correct a CJ block is nothing more then the same thing as what you would find in grandma's station wagon not a thing in the world special about it, just a thin wall casting 2 bolt main standard type oiling system setup, the SCJ block had the eidtion of the 4 bolt main caps and a FEW of the extra's were used for the CJ engines.
The heads yes have the 2.09 intake valves, exactly like the 351C 2V motors nothing special, nothing to brag about but will get the job done on a pickup motor. As to the exhaust humps some of the D0VE heads actually do have them and they don't flow any better then the "smog" heads everyone says to junk (that would be the D3VE heads).
There is not a thing in the world wrong with his motor as a starting point but I don't want people coming in a posting a bunch of wrong information how the D0VE heads are same as CJ, how the D0VE and D1VE blocks are the SCJ blocks yadda, yadda, it's not true and causes a lot of misinformation to be past around when the truth is actually just as good adn no one gets hurt (a standard passenger car or pickup 2 bolt block will hold more power then 98% of the people building anything will every need. If you NEED a 4 bolt SCJ block then you are much better off going after market instead of wasting your time looking for aor converting to one.)