Did Salt get your Powerstroke Oil Pan (7.3 diesel)

 

Hmmmm, interesting find there Ron.

 

i wonder if it works as good as it looks???

 

I dunno. Looks like it would leak and make a mess of your driveway. Gravity isn't going to be that pan's friend.

 

Very Interesting....
Wonder How thick it is compared to original.
Dont you still have to pull the engine to get the old pan off? or atleast nudge the engine a bit?
I dont see how thats going to make it back in...if thats the actual picture for the 7.3L two peice pan.

Thank you ron...this might turn out to be an alternative....if it works as it is designed.

 

The 2 piece pan thing is nothing new for diesel engines however most are made from aluminum to prevent warping. This pan looks like it should work fine ,but I don't like the fact the bolt holes are not reinforced in key areas this can cause bent rails and leaks!

 

saz-all will cut most any thing...i think you still need to lift the motor some to do this...i thought the problem was in the front of the pan and cross member..i dont know..we will have to wait for someone that has pulled the pan before to chime in....

 

Your eyes are better than mine. I can't tell how well it's built from the pictures. It would be nice if they specified what type of material they used to build it. You would hope they offered it with stainless steel bolts if it's designed for replacing rusted pans.

Nice find Ron.

 

POR-15 looks better everytime I think of doing something with my pan....just worry to much about a pin hole showing up after i knock off the loose stuffs!

$20 vs $500 hmmmmmm.......

 

I think if you make a hole in the pan while you are removing the loose stuff, all you did was find the leak early. Before you loose all the oil on the road.

Good find Ron. Down here my pan looks brand new.

 

My thoughts as well, been keeping an eye on things under mine, leaking oil and not coming from the top or ped.-O- rings , seems to be oil pan gasket. I snug the bolts a little and it made it a little worse.

 

Hmmmm. Interesting find.
If a customer handed me the pan and said to install it, I would not warrenty against leaks.

 

Received the instructions from the guy.

"We sell an oil pan that comes in 2 pieces. Put truck on ramps, lift orsome safe means to get the motor up so as to work under. Rememberyour truck is heavy .... make sure your ramps can safely accommodatethe weight of the truck. Disconnect battery. Undo engine and transmount bolts. Undo pan bolts. Jack –up the motor till turbo hits firewall, push-up the trans and drop the pan down. U can do this with aautomotive floor jack, an engine hoist even a bottle jack. It isadvisable that u 'SHIM' the motor up with several small 2x4 blocksbetween the engine mounts and frame support 4 safety. The Old Panwill drop about 5- 6 inches. Slip a sheet of light gauge metal, plastic or even aluminum foilbetween the pan and block. ' 'Cut-out' the old pan. by removing a 3"rear section with a 'saws all' , pneumatic cut off saw or similar.Save as a reminder of what a fine machine Henry built 4 U. Make surenot to damage the pk-up tube. If the pk-up tube gets 'nicked' it mustbe weld repaired or replaced. Do a through job of cleaning the face flange on the block and theround supports for the main bearings with a solvent that cuts oil.CAREFUL some cleaners are a fire hazard. NO SMOKING. Practice with a 'Dry-Run' of putting in front section and pk-up tube.This will help U see how the front of the pk-up tube goes back inwithout DISTURBING THE CAULKING. U will see to hold the pan sectiona little back and toward the drovers side a little bit so front pk-uptube bolts can be seen and placed . This is best as a 2 man task.The man in the rear guilds the tube and the man in front puts thebolts in place When ready, new front section goes in with caulking in place. Afterapplying the caulking put a nail or similar stop to keep it fresh.If U drop a front tube bolt retrieve with telescoping magnet or removepan section and start again. Once in place U want to move along toget the pan section in before caulking 'dries-out' The open endmakes the job of attaching rear pk-up tube bolt far, far easier. Caulkthe second section and bolt in place to bo the the block and the frontpan section ……. and you are done. Takes no time at all. We can doit in 2 hours in Meadville PA or sell U the pan with caulking ....Level of experience required? …. Modest. Record so far is 47 minutesby 2 pros. That is a little better than Fords 18 hours shop time($2,200 plus $330 4 the pan, 24 for the chaulking). We are swamped. It is taking about a week to 10 days to deliver.


I just dont understand what cutting the 3" out of the a$$ of the pan will make it clear....well it has been a year since ive been under my truck so maybe im just ignorant but dont have a picture on hand of underneath our trucks to see what it looks like.

Im thinking...if i can jack it all up and the pan it close to coming out.....ill remove that turbo for a few extra inches and slip a new pan in der Though that dosnt solve the "needing?" to flip the engine upside down part. Ive done a few L10 and M11 Cumming oil pans while they where in the truck...just gota use the gasket and let the RTV dry. My list for when i get home gets getting bigger....and bigger...and bigger! But i'de rather have peace in mind for when i drive down to TX for my next few years.

 

The reason for cutting the 3" out of the rear of the pan is because the rear of the pan won't drop down since the flywheel will be in the way. Once the 3" is cut out, the rear of the pan will drop down far enough to pull the front section out backwards.

 

Or you could jack the motor up, and simply replace the oil pan....