I just acquired a really solid '68 F100 SWB. The 6cyl. engine is not original to the truck. The previous owner had the 3speed shifting column all apart and the clutch linkage wasn't hooked up. (I trailered it home from Dallas. 300 miles) I got it home, put the column all back together and found out why he had'nt hooked up the clutch. The clutch fork wasn't clipped into the throwout bearing. Gotta pull the motor or tranny to fix that. right? Also the ball thats screwed into the block is about 2inches lower than the ball on the frame Maybe he hooked it up and the fork popped out because of this, I don't know. I plan on fabricating a bracket to correct the geometry unless someone else has a better idea. Anyone ever run into this before?


'69 F100 Ranger, 390 C6
'68 F100 SWB , 6cyl. 3spd standard
'68 Fastback 'Stang
'47 8N Tractor,All original

 

Never mind, I pulled the motor today and clipped the fork back on the throw-out bearing. When I put it back in I kinda cocked the motor and bent the clutch adjusting rod just a little bit. Still don't look quite right to me but it works. Anyways the little 240's days are numbered. I've got a '64 Thunderbird 390 thats gonna take its place as soon as I get everything together. (A 4,000lb truck has gotta have a big-block.)

 

Take a look at the motor mount bolt holes on that 1964 T-Bird 390. When Ford began installing the 352 FE engine into 1965 F100/350's, a change to a new bare block was necessary, because the motor mount bolt holes are different on 1964 and earlier engines. There are only two, not three like the 1965 and later blocks have.

 

Heya,Bill! Is this the thread that started all the stir regarding slow response to Newbie questions? Is it just me,or does it seem as if he asked a question in the AM,12 hours later answered his own question and sorta rendered it irrelevant when he stated that he got it to work,but that it didnt really matter anyhow,since another motor was going in soon! I would have interpreted this as "Question answered,thread closed!" Im not really surprised that he got no further responses,many readers would assume he had the problem solved.....

 

Since he claimed to solve the problem, I made no comment originally. Usually when this mis-alignment occurs, the nylon bushings inside the Equalizer Bar are broken or missing. These bushing ride on the two clutch pivots, one on the frame, one on the engine. When missing (they break apart, and fall out), the E-Bar is misaligned, then the clutch adjustment rod that attaches to the E-Bar, then to the clutch fork is out of whack.

 

The bushings are good in the Zbar. The problem is the pivot ball that screws in the block is about 2 inches lower than the the pivot ball that bolts to the frame. I'm not familiar with the 240/300 engines. (i'm a V8 guy) The engine is not original to this truck. I was just wondering if maybe Ford changed the mounting point on the block at some point. Or maybe the motor-mounts are wrong? I bent the clutch adjusting rod and made it work, but like I said before, it ain't right. The thing runs like a top and I hate to admit it but I'm kinda getting attached to the little 6banger.

 

From the 1964/72 Ford Truck Parts Catalog...

Same engine mounted clutch pivot 1965/72 240's & 300's. (The same one was actually used thru 1974 on 240's, thru 1996 on 300's).

C5TZ7A535A .. Clutch Pivot-Engine Mounted / 2.54" long -1" hex head -9/16" -12 thread one end, 5/8" diameter pivot shaft the other.

C6TZ7507C .. Clutch Pivot-Frame Mounted-Includes Pin / 4" center to center of mounting slots / Fits: 1966 F100 4WD / 1966 F100/250 2WD (after serial # 830,001) / 1967/72 F100/350 all 6 or V8.

Mis-aligned: Which Equalizer Bar are you using? There are 5 different ones for just 1965/72 F100/350's.

And then...there are more types after 1972. I'd have to look 'em all up to find out just how many.

Of course, Ford didn't mark them, and the parts catalog description of each is rather scant.

C8TZ7528B .. Equalizer Bar / Shaft 5 1/2" long / Fits: 1968/72 F100/350 (except 302).

There are two others that are 5 1/2" long - there's a serial number split for these two 1965/67.

Then there's another that's 7.94" long, also used 1965/66, and still another that's 5 13/16" long for 302's.

The shape of all a these is also different.

 

Thanks for all the info NumberGuy (you're obviously not a dummy). The PO told me everything on the truck was original except the engine. And it's an older model, C5AE on the block. You can jack the motor up just a little and everything lines up right. So I'm thinking the motor mounts are wrong. They both say "made in Korea" in big letters.

 

Should gas prices stay where they are Diamondblue,you just might get to liking the 6 cyl. more and more! Assuming that you have the VIN plate on the door,take a look at it. first 3 digits should be F10,next should be a letter,Y is 360,H is 390,im sorry to say i dont have my Chiltons guide in front of me,it lists other engine codes.BTW,the 240 would have been the base engine option,i believe? Could the PO mean that engine had just been replaced with a new one,or did he specifically say that a different size engine had been swapped....."made in Korea",thats FoMoKo,Ford motors of Korea,kidding! Good luck............Bob

 

The mounts are prolly too small, and are made from an inferior product.

Many of the molds of these "ferin" parts were made from original parts, not the way any auto maker did it as original. When this scheiss comes out of the molds, they're usually slightly undersized.

This same malady also affects the Asian sheet metal, because it was made the same way ...from originals. Now you know why peeps complain it doesn't fit right. It's also slightly undersized.

The quality of the rubber (actually neoprene rubber was used originally) is also suspect (is it neoprene...or not?).

And...IMO the absolute worst of all is...the tensile strength of the steel used in Asian counties isn't anywhere close to what was used originally.

Don't need no stinkin' badges, or a manual, parts catalog, crystal ball, tea leaves, tarot cards, or a oijia board to tell y'all that...

1968/72 engine codes: A = 240 / B = 300 / G = 302 (1969 and later) / H = 390 2V / Y = 360 2V.

C5AE is a casting number, not a part number. The same casting number was used for both the 240 & the 300, and the blocks are the same from 1965 thru 1979, regardless of that 1965 casting number.

I just typed Ford facts over another 1965 casting number inre to 9 inch rear ends in another forum.

Peeps think the casting number only refers to one year. It does not. Peeps think that if an A is used as the 3rd digit in a casting number, the part is only for a car. It is not.

Peeps should not go by casting numbers to ID anything, because if they do, they're prolly wrong 99.9% of the time.

 

I decoded the vin# before I bought the truck. It is originally a 240 6cyl. 3spd. Rangoon red, short wheel-base F100. Truck matches the numbers to a T. I have the original engine, it was in the bed of the truck when I got it.
Numberguy I think you're right about the motormounts. The rubber looks all mashed out. (Dang furriners)

 

Both the following motor mounts are replaced by a later type, but Ford sez you have to change the engine stands to make them work.

So, I did an internet search for originals and found the following.

C7TZ6038A .. R/Motor Mount / Fits: 1965/72 F100/250 2WD / 1967/72 F100/250 4WD / 1967/72 F350.

JST Automotive in Lebanon KY has 7: 615-443-3086

Miller Obsolete Parts in Binghamton NY has 7: 800-546-7278

Wesley Obsolete Parts in Liberty KY has 5: 606-787-5293
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C7TZ6038B .. L/Motor Mount / Fits: 1965/72 F100/250 2WD / 1967/72 F100/250 4WD / 1967/72 F350

Don Sanderson Ford in Glendale AZ has 16: 623-842-8762

Wesley Obsolete Parts in Liberty KY has 1: phone number above.

Dale King Obsolete Parts in Liberty KY has 2: 606-787-5031