2000 v 10 with 4 inch front and 6 inch rear all spring bds lift. Can i shim and do a zero rate to correct the .5" lean on the driver side? Also should the amount of push with the zero rate equal the amount of spacing I do with the front bumper? Now I have PC mt 35x 12.50 x 17 x 9 classic lock 2 with 5" backspacing with no rub. On the rear I was also gonna do a zero rate to keep my 1" rake at the fenderwell tops should this be 0 or pushed 1 or 1.5' ? Thanks in advance, I'm in Michigan and need to be under 30' at the bumpers so trying to stay as low as possible via whatever tricks are out there.

 

I"m not familiar with the terminology you are using, zero rate?

 

bump anyone

 

Your going to have explain "zero rate" or atleast what it pertains too.

 

Zero rate add a leaf Offroad Design - Fullsize 4x4 Performance. Kind of like a lift block that bolts to the spring pack which is completely safe. I'm currently using a set on my 79. You need to clarify the rest as to what your after. Also I'm thinking that your backwards in stating that you have 6"s of lift in the rear and 4"s in the front, it's 99.9% of the time the opposite of that. Either that or your truck is super tail high.

 

I wouldn't shim only one side of an axle. If one side is sagging, I would first look for the cause. Is the spring pack failing? Do you have extra weight on that side? Are the bushings failing or shackles bent?

Failing that, I would do air bags to level it up. 1/2" is a pretty good bit to fix figuring it takes a couple hundred pounds to compress a spring 1".

 

Interesting how they renamed a block, a leaf so to make it "safe" for front end use. It is a block, that is all there is to it. It is a really short block, but a block none the less. Just because it is located by a spring center pin doesn't change that. Else a 4 inch block could be bolted with the springs and called a leaf? My .02

 

a zero rate spring wouldnt have all of the negative side effects of a block. it wouldnt promote axle wrap in the same way. did you lengthen your trac/panhard rod when you lifted your truck?

 

How can this be so? It is spacing the spring away from the axle and not distributing the load over a distance like a real leaf would. I'm really not understanding how this qualifies as a spring

 

wow my bad i didnt follow the link at first. yeah thats definetly a glorified lift block.

i'm betting that this guy didnt drop his trac bar mount so its pulling the drivers side down.

a 2000v10 has a trac rod right? i know my dads 01 does but its a diesel.

 

All front solid axles suspended by non-floating leafs need a track rod to locate the axle lf/rh.

 

could you enlighten me as to what the difference between non-floating and floating leafs is? thanks

 

Non-floating is the axle is bolted directly to springs and the spring controls the rotation of the axle. Floating, the axle is contained in a pivot housing so the axle can rotate independently, which it needs to if your running leaf springs and a control arm setup (3,4 links).

 

it seems like the seventies f250/350(and for that matter all gm and dodge) ran this nonfloating setup with no track bar.

 

I hadn't seen that. Typically leaf sprung front ends have the pair of leafs and a panhard/track arm. The rears don't need panhard/track arms with leafs. I didn't remember the reason, but it probably has to do with the steering and the axles tendenacy to push the vehicle straight forward.

It is possible, but I'd think they would go through leaf spring bushings very quickly.