Hello all,

This is regarding the ranger in my sig. I bought it from the original owner back in March of this year, and it has never idled correctly. The owner thought it might be a bad EGR valve or clogged EGR passages. I just lived with it until recently when it got a lot worse.

Now, it will start fine, and for a few seconds it idles ok. Then it will slow down and die if I don't put pressure on the gas pedal. When I put a steady pressure on the gas pedal the engine will then go up in speed, and then fall back down and die. I can keep it running by pumping the pedal but it will not stay running without some sort of pedal pressure.

This started happening last week and I ended up leaving it in a local shopping center parking lot across from my work. I am hoping to baby it home, but I don't know if that will be possible because whenever a load is applied to the engine it coughs and sputters and dies. Slipping the clutch excessively will get it rolling, but when I shift into second it does the same thing.

Funds are tight as I am only working 2 hours a day, so paying $45 for a tow is not possible. I just had it in the shop about two weeks ago for an ignition switch replacement and the mechanic stated then he thought the timing belt had jumped a tooth. It ran ok then, but like I stated last week it started doing the above.

I was thinking a vacuum leak would cause the erratic idle, but I checked all visible lines and can't find any broken, or cracked or unplugged. I even disconnected the EGR valve and plugged it with a pen and still no change. Any ideas?

It currently has over 127k on it, and the previous owner states he has never changed the timing belt. I was thinking even if that is not causing this problem it is a good idea to change it, but if it is not the problem what else could it be?

 

When EGR screws up on us, it usually wants to RACE the engine. Huh, has he checked the IAC & TPS? Also, if you can get some starting fluid, try spraying a mild fog over the lines & sensors, esp around intake manifold gaskets. I'm drawing at straws a bit myself on this one. I suppose the t belt COULD have jumped, but more likely a sensor or control. Need the pros to pipe up.

 

Looks like I will have to have it towed after all. Today I tried to drive it home, and it would not even make it out the parking lot. It kept stalling. I was smelling fuel too. So I will just wait for payday and have it towed home. Only had this truck 8 months, and twice now it has left me stranded. Not a good sign

 

You likely need a new MAP sensor if the car is fuel injected. Oh, wait, you are in Fresno. Yup, MAP sensor will tell the computer how much load is on your engine, and fiddle with the injectors for lean / rich calculations. It is most sensitive at idle, because it can die, and you notice that (mostly).
I bought my 85 in Dublin at Shamrock ford in Dec 1984. I still like it.
To check, disconnet the electrical connector on the MAP, under the plastic cover rearward from the battery. A box about the size of a deck of cards with a vacuum host and electrical connections. If you disconnect it, the MAP signal will default to a 'base' value and fix your idle right now. But will get crappy fuel mileage.
If that proves true, replace it with new or boneyard part. About $50 in memory.
tom

added: Rangers were EFI to pass California SMOG rules in 1985, but carb'd in the rest of USA, from what I know.

 

Thanks will have to check that. I have noticed that when it is cold and I start it, it will run fine for a minute or two, but then it just dies, no matter what position the throttle is at. I also smell gas like it is running too rich. Sounds like it might be the MAP sensor. I also noticed that just before it got so bad I had to stop driving it, that when I went around a corner it would die too. If this was a carbed engine I would say it was float level set too low. But since it is injected, I don't know what controls that. I am off Wednesday and Thursday so I will check it then.

 

You just described a bad fuel pressure regulator. Might not be the real problem, but it fits O so well. I'm not sure where it would be on yours, but they usually try to put it on the fuel rail.

 

Get this fixed and it will outlast anything you can buy today. The timing belt will not ruin the valves if it breaks, you just have to put on a new belt. Recommended at about 65K miles.
The fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel rail, (the tube that all the injectors are plugged into) and has a schrader (tire valvestem) valve that you can use to check pressure. It also has a vacuum line. Pull the rubber vacuum line off and check for gas being inside. If it has gas inside, it has a ruptured diaphragm, and must be replaced.
There is another current thread in the Ranger section
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6343554
about timing belt replacement.
Try disconnecting the MAP vacuum line, plug it, and see if it will settle down enough to drive home. Cheap test, no? If not, pull the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator and check for gas. If gassy, get another regulator and bolt it on. These fixes are not major fixes, just nut and bolt. The parts could fit in your pocket. Buy both, and it will be less than $100, I'd bet. I still have the originals functioning on my truck and I bought it in 1984 as a Christmas present to myself.

They last. Parts are cheaper than payments, if you are strapped for funds.

tom