(Please say "no"...)

I've put up a few pictures in my previous thread regarding my brake problems. And Chuck 49fordpickumup) has pointed out the rust forming.

I guess it's time for Rust-Bullet or POR-15. I think I'm going to go with POR-15, but was a bit dismayed to read (though not really surprised) that it likes to be right next to the metal.

My frame was painted recently, so it's in good condition, however, the change of climate from your dry Texas to here in wet Scotland seems to be starting to affect it in a few places.

Should I just focus on the rusty bits -using POR strip to take off the chassis paint, and covering it with POR-15 and Chassis Coat Black- ? Or should I start a Forth-Rail-Bridge-esque end to end strip and paint?

Any advice?

Cheers,
QbE

 

Hi Quiff_boy_Elvis

POR-15 is a rust encapsulator that blocks oxygen from contacting metal thus stopping oxidation. You don't have to clean all the rust off to stop it. I bought some for the floor of my cab but haven't used it yet. I plan on cleaning the floor with a wire wheel to remove all the loose rust and get the floor smooth. A local autobody repair man gave me a tip on storing unused POR-15 after you opened the can. He said to put Saran Wrap(plastic wrap) over the can before you put the lid back on or you will never remove the lid again. Here is a web site that may help. The Rust Prevention Process - POR-15 Step-by-Step Demo

Rick

 

Thanks for that, but if you look at the picture below (closely), you will note that my frame is in good shape --little rust appearing, but best get at it now.

So I was wondering if I could just paint POR-15 over the existing paint....

 

I would say yes , just paint over it. It will stop the rust and should stick to the paint. I did not use either above but did use Zero Rust which is the same thing. Good luck!

 

Hi

Here is a link to the company's FAQ page. Scroll down to the bottom half of this page to find what you are looking for. POR-15 FAQ Description, Application Procedures, Questions/Answers

Here are a couple of quotes from their page as well. Rick

 

Yes -in fact it sticks better to rust or old finish than clean bare finish--they claim.. I just did my 56F100 frame in silver and I ground alot of it,and then brushed it on,then sprayed over it. This is a driver and good enough. I am not going to sandblast this one. I am building drivers and the frame will last 100 yrs like this....Bill

 

Personally I would get a couple of rattle cans of Zero Rust and spray the problem areas. POR15 is good stuff but more of a pain to work with, and in this type of application I don't think you would see any benefit of it over the ZR

 

por 15 works ok. doing body work after por 15 is a little harder to work with if you go down to bare metal. its so hard it wants to chip sometimes. i use picklex 20 and zero rust now then spray epoxy primer. easier and cheaper

 

I have used POR-15 before and it works really well under the right conditions. It likes to get ahold of the metal or rust. You can paint it on new metal that is smooth and it will come right off also it will come off of smooth paint. If you want to use it on anything but rust I would advise etching the surface either by sanding, chemicals or sandblasting. Also if you intend to paint over it I would advise doing it before the POR is completely dry. The reason for this is because when POR dries it is very hard and you would need to sand it to get the top coat to stick,thereby negating the encapsulating effect. Hope this info helps.

 

I'm using Chassis Saver instead of POR-15 - pretty much the same animal, just a lot less expensive. They recommend top coating before it's dry, or a light sanding if after it's dry. I've done it both ways, and after it's dry isn't too bad - granted, it sands a little hard, but you don't need to take it down a lot, just enough to have some "tooth" for the top coat to adhere to. And I don't think it negates the encapsulating effect, unless you sand all the way through, which isn't necessary. Just a light sanding, I used 180 paper. Adheres just fine.

I second that on either sanding or blasting the old paint. I blasted mine to raw metal, on my front axle, but the bolts that I replaced, I didn't, and when I painted you could sure see a big difference on adhesion.



I used a brush, and it really flows out well.

Personally, I would take it down to bare steel, or, alternatively, just scrape/sand/wirewheel the rust, and use Rustoleum. In my opinion, the rust encapsulation is rather a "all or nothing" proposition, after working with it. I'm even using it under the cab, on the floorboards, and I'm painting all the cab corner patches, etc, before I install them. But, I'm lightly sanding them before welding them in, because when I'm done, I will put another good coat on, wherever I can reach from the inside. Of course, I'll have encapsulation inside the entire cab, wherever it's going to be covered by paint, interior, etc.



R

 

Anyone have any idea how long POR 15 will last unopened. I bought some to do my frame but I haven't gotten to use it yet and it may be a while until I get to finish my frame?

 

probably about 2 years, if it hasn't been opened. The Chassis Saver recommends keeping it in the 'fridge once opened, and that's where I have mine. I've used about 1/2 gallon of the gallon, I've opened it probably 8-10 times. No problems yet. CS says to "float" a bit of the reducer on top, before closing it, which I've done. I did have one time where I didn't quite cover the whole top of the liquid with reducer, about a 50-cent piece sized "miss", and that one place sort of congealed. Fished that out, and haven't had any problem since. Used a bit last night, and was just as good as the day I opened it, 2 1/2 months ago. I would imagine that the POR-15 is just about exactly the same thing. Form follows function...

And I can see how they'd be right about the Saran Wrap - I've just been careful, when I dip into it, I have a piece of cardboard that I keep over the top, so I can't get any into the place where the lid "seals". That's where the problem would occur.

And, if it gets on you, I used lacquer thinner, but if you miss a spot, the only thing that gets it off, is old age! I had a quarter-sized spot on my leg for a month!

R