Doing a quick search I found the following:

Fuel regulator 3/16 shim
3/16 bb in the regulator
Regulator screen cleaning
Accel sensor adjustment (mine requires about 1/4" depression before throttle activation)

Are the first two worthwhile mods?
Aside from intake and exhaust mods I plan on installing gauges, a TW programmer and possibly an intercooler later on.

Hopefully I can get some responses before the Mrs get's me on other projects!

Thanks.

 

First 2 are the same thing I belive.
The FPR shim is a fairly easy mod. =)

For your TPS, I duno how you would fix that. There isn't much adjustment on a TPS.

 

I'm going to guess you're right on the shim thing.

I just finished the screen cleaning and I can say with certainty that it has NEVER been cleaned. I know the original owner, who I purchased it from, and he didn't even know it existed. It was completely plugged and I had to use a gun cleaning brush to gently brush the black deposits away. They were crusted pretty hard to the screen.

The throttle sensor is a "bend-to-your-satisfaction" I think. I'll play with that last.

Is the bb mod something I need to check fuel pressures for "before" I install it or is it just "something you do" regardless of the current pressure?

 

I am unsure.

If the TPS is like a gas engine, its just a potentiometer.
You loosen it and adjust it by turning it.
I think it has about 3/16ths of adjustment.
The lack of throttle response could be due to a bad TPS.
The sensor is not sending info right away and it thinks its on infinity.

 

Did a fuel pressure test and my gauge bounced between 50 and 55psi. I've heard 50-60psi is ok and I've heard 70psi is the max, so at this point I think I'll leave it alone.

 

Im pretty sure that the max is 80 psi. And the TPS mod is a tab that you can bend to your liking, it also involves egging out a hole but im not sure which one it is. If you search for a TPS mod the was a write-up done by Tim, if im not mistaken, and it is pretty good.

 

80 PSI is the Max for fuel pressure. If you do the BB mod us a BB from a BB gun and nothing else and you won't get into trouble.

There is a small "TIT" on the inside center of the brass plug. Make sure that after you install the BB, then install the spring making sure that the BB and the spring both slide inside the triangle valve and the that the spring "Centers" on the "TIT" and stays in place while you compress the spring and start the threads.

You only have to compress the spring a couple of coils. it's really not a big deal. After you have it back together re-check your fuel pressure.

You can clean the screen without removing the pressure regulator from the filter. Drain your filter, remove the cap and filter. On the drivers side about an inch or so down on the inside there is a hole, 7/16 or so. With the aid of a mirror look inside the hole and you should see a clean fine mesh screen. If not take a Q-tip, remove the cotton and just using the Q-tip stick gently scrape the
crud off of the screen.

This is also a good time to clean out the crud that has been accumulating in the bottom of your fuel filter, With the aid of the proper size crows foot loosen the stand pipe & remove it from the housing. "CAUTION" This pipe is a LEFT HAND thread.
(righty loosey-Lefty tighty) Bass ackwards from everything else

Below that is a plate with a single curved wire silver soldered to the plate in three (3) places and plugged into a heater plug. Un-plug the wire and remove the heater. Don't be surprised if one of more of the soldered pads holding the heater wire have broken loose.

If the heater wire is loose from the plate and you don't want to replace it with th OEM heater or the upgraded SuperDuty heater, you can replace the plate but don't plug the heater back into the heater element sensor on the side of the bowel. You will experience a blown fuse.

Fuel wise you should be in fairly good shape now

Rog

 

bending the tab on the pedal is only the first step, to get maximum performance you need to do some more work, most, if not all, psd's have crappy pedal's and you are not gettng anywhere near full throttle when you foot hits the floorboard. bending the ivs tab is only to increase throttle tip-in. you change your full throttle position you need a scan tool with pid data function so you can moniter tps voltage while playing with your pedal. so far the easiest method is done by grinding the throttle stop rod out of the pedal and replacing it with smaller 1/4 inch diamter all thread.

i have tried several times to upload a photo of my pedal modded with no success, webshots says it is an incorrect file, yet it is a jpeg, no different then any other file i upload, so i willl have to go take some more photos of it. tj has the same mod done to his truck, perhaps he can get some pictures up

 

I dont think TJ has one on his webshots.
I think he has an already modded pedal for sale?

and just to remind everyone, my motorcycle is for sale too, (so i can buy a powerstroke)

 

That's caught my interest.
What does that include?

 

I think its just the gas pedal from the truck
hahaha

 

Well written Rog- reps sent!

 

I think the pedal Tim has for sale is just a stock pedal out of the 95 parts rig he picked up about a month back.

 

X2!
Thanks!

 

In the mean time you get the TW chip, you can do the ICP MOD. (10,14.7,20,22 K mod, cOOn´s mod) an easy mod too and cheap.