Notices
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

trailer winch guidance, power out

 
  #1  
Old 07-01-2008, 08:32 AM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil
sdetweil is offline
Post Fiend
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Pflugerville, tx
Posts: 11,601
sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.
trailer winch guidance, power out

now that I am fidling with my trailer more, my current winch doesn't cut it.
(its power in and freespool).. I also need power out..

anything I should look for? hate really not being able to SEE these things before you buy anymore.. I can go to the offroad/4x4 shop, but they really only talk about bumper mounted hitches.

this is what I call occasional use (once a month/every other month)..

I used my 3000lb winch this last weekend, and if I had been by myself a wireless remote would have been useful as the control cable wasn't long enough to reach the vehicle being loaded..

sam
 
  #2  
Old 07-01-2008, 09:25 AM
49willard
49willard is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Harpswell Maine
Posts: 2,856
49willard has a great reputation on FTE.49willard has a great reputation on FTE.49willard has a great reputation on FTE.49willard has a great reputation on FTE.49willard has a great reputation on FTE.
Trailers seem to be a current topic. I am also in the process of installing a winch on my trailer. I did buy just an inexpensive 3000# pull Harbor Freight winch with a remote (I went to the remote for exactly the reason that Sam discussed since I am often alone when loading the trailer). I probably only winch something every year or two and not a heavy vehicle so I did not go for an expensive winch. I think that it will do what I need. What surprised me was the winch rating at 1.1hp with only #10 wire pigtails to the motor since 1.1 hp would require about 70 amps at 12V. Granted that the full 1.1 hp would only be developed by the motor when trying to pull with a 3000# force (equivalent to lifting 3000#), much more that I should ever need. Their very sparce instructions talk about powering the winch from the vehicle while running (to keep voltage high). Most guys that I see have a separate battery typically in the nose of the trailer that is not connected electrically to the tow vehicle. I was heading down the road of connecting it to the tow vehicle thru the heavy duty 7 pin connector for the remainder of the trailer electrical needs. What have other done?

EDIT I did a little online research and #10 wire is rated at 55 amps for chassis wiring. That means exposed single conductor for a confinguration. That rating is signifciantly reduced for wire in a bundle. In any case my #10 motor leads are definitely on the light side. I suspect that they can do that based on an intermittant rather than continuous duty like a starter motor.
 
  #3  
Old 07-01-2008, 09:33 AM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil
sdetweil is offline
Post Fiend
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Pflugerville, tx
Posts: 11,601
sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.
I put a storage box on the tongue of my trailer, and have a full size battery there charged thru the connector to the pickup. you can see the box in the attached pic (and the old winch)

Is the HF winch you picked up the camo version? my trailer is the wood deck style, and I still have to find a good mounting place. only thing I can think of for the camo unit is the 30ft of cable.. the other 3000lb one (without remote), has 45 ft, so you could easily use a ****** block with the extra cable..

When we picked up the 54 back in Oct, this temp winch (3000lb pull) was not strong enough to pull the truck loose.., and we had to use the two 8000lb comealongs to get the truck onto the trailer (gosh what a SLOW, painful, hot process!.. no floor jack, no plywood.. no sledge to break the brakes loose, not tool prepared)..
and I was thinking I wanted to get a stronger one..
but those cases are pretty small.. maybe never again!..



But I have another question.. is this just bad translation/instructions (on the HF non-camo version, 91781)

3. Disengage the Clutch Gear of the Winch by pulling the Clutch **** (20) out and
turning it to the “OUT” position. (See Figure E.)
4. Pull out the Cable (30) to the desired length, using the “Power Out” feature
located on the Remote Control (33B). Always leave at least five turns of Cable
on the Drum (23) to prevent pulling the Cable completely out of the
Winch. (See Figures D and E.)

is step 3 wrong (disengage) or step 4 wrong (using the power out feature)

if it is disengaged, why use power out? it should be freespool at that point..
if the switch has forward and back, why would you need to switch the clutch?


Sam
 
  #4  
Old 07-01-2008, 10:09 AM
Gary E's Avatar
Gary E
Gary E is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: sacramento
Posts: 738
Gary E is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
I have the cheapy 2000 lb $40 HF wired winch I don't suggest it but it has pulled a bunch of stuff up, and I have yet to need to double line it yet. I like the rest of my setup though, I have a full size battery in the storage box on the tongue, I also keep all my straps etc in it. for a winch mount I used some 2 inch receiver tubing I had laying around and welded it in. So the winch is mounted to the tubing that goes inside it just like your trailer and I use a trailer pin. When not in use the winch/mount assembly goes in the storage box. I also welded a hook to the top of my "receiver" so I could use the winch on my jeep to pull on.
 
  #5  
Old 07-01-2008, 10:19 AM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil
sdetweil is offline
Post Fiend
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Pflugerville, tx
Posts: 11,601
sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.
Where did you weld the receiver onto the trailer?

(you guys with stuff just laying around!.. you kill me!)
I use the box for strap/tiedown storage as well
Sam
 
  #6  
Old 07-01-2008, 10:54 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer
AXracer is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 15,754
AXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud of
We usually drive the car into our enclosed trailer (being a convertible we leave the top down and climb in and out without having to open the door) but I installed a winch for just in case situations or if we happen to need to load or unload the car alone. My winch is a Warn 4K# with wired remote control switch. It was intended for mounting on an ATV, the switch came with a handlebar mount. I extended the switch leads 1/2 way down the side of the trailer and added an automotive type quick connect at that point. The leads on the switch itself with matching plug I made sure were long enough to reach the end of the loading ramp. You could use a flat trailer plug for a connector if you couldn't find a suitable automotive one. Since I have other 12V needs in the trailer (lights, AC/DC refrigerator, 12V outlets for computer, cell phone chargers) as well as 115V wiring for use where electricity may be available or with my portable generator, my setup is more elaborate than most. I installed a 12V gellcell battery wired directly to the winch with 6 ga stranded wire with a 40A fuse in the + lead. I also ran 10ga leads to a strip connector for gounds and a 10 fuse block for my other circuits which are fused and wired with various ga wires depending on expected draw. I ran a lead to the trailer power lead from the 7 pin connector to keep the battery charged when driving and to be able to run off the truck battery when hitched. I have a battery maintainance AC charger designed for gell cells wired into the AC circuit so I can plug the trailer into the garage at home and it keeps the battery at full charge without overcharging it.
Remember that rolling weight is much less than the full weight of the vehicle unless you are planning on winching it off the ground or out of frame deep mud. Make sure the winch you get has a roller fairlead, your cable will appreciate it.
 
  #7  
Old 07-01-2008, 10:55 AM
49willard
49willard is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Harpswell Maine
Posts: 2,856
49willard has a great reputation on FTE.49willard has a great reputation on FTE.49willard has a great reputation on FTE.49willard has a great reputation on FTE.49willard has a great reputation on FTE.
Sam, The HF winch that I bought was # 95912 which was $80. It has only 30' of 3/16 cable however that will get me to a vehicle pull point at the start of the loading ramps with margin. To freewheel the cable the instructions say to disengage the freewheel **** by turning the **** to the "out" position then press the power out on the transmitter and then pull the cable out to the desired length. I don't know if you hold the power out button while pulling all the way out or not. I will find out after I complete the installation. I cannot vouch for the ability of the winch since I have not completed the installation
 
  #8  
Old 07-01-2008, 10:59 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer
AXracer is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 15,754
AXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud of
I saw a setup where a hitch ball was mounted to the trailer floor and the winch had a trailer hitch attached to it's mount. To use the winch he just "hitched" it to the ball. With a few additional power leads you could use the hitch in other locations like installing an extra ball at the rear of the trailer or onto the truck's hitch without the trailer with this type setup.
If you were real che... er frugal you could just cut a keyhole slot in a mounting plate and just drop it over the hitch ball. The advantage of this over using a receiver type mount is it is self centering so it doesn't put side strain in the winch and mount or pile the cable up on one end of the drum.
 
  #9  
Old 07-01-2008, 11:09 AM
bobj49f2's Avatar
bobj49f2
bobj49f2 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Posts: 13,234
bobj49f2 has a brilliant futurebobj49f2 has a brilliant futurebobj49f2 has a brilliant futurebobj49f2 has a brilliant futurebobj49f2 has a brilliant futurebobj49f2 has a brilliant futurebobj49f2 has a brilliant futurebobj49f2 has a brilliant futurebobj49f2 has a brilliant futurebobj49f2 has a brilliant futurebobj49f2 has a brilliant future
I got a winch from a friend for a few bucks for my trailer. I bought some 2", I think, inch square tubing and welded it to front of my trailer. I then welded an " plate to a piece of 2" sqaure tubing and bolted the winch to it. I can insert the winch bracket into the 2" tubing, insert a pin to hold and remove it when I done. I also mounted a 8"X 8" junction box on the winch bracket and inside I use four 12 volt starter solenoids to control the direction of the winch. Through the side I have two different types of twist plugs, one I have wired to the solenoids which I plug in a 25' cord with small unilet conduit fitting with a three position toggle switch to control the in/off/out of the winch. The second twist connector is for incoming power for the winch. I didn't want an extra, heavy wire running through my truck so I have one end of a set of 25' jumper cables into the plug and have clamps on the other end which I clamp onto my truck's battery. I've used this setup many times without a problem. I also should mention I have a tilt bed trailer and if the winch has a problem pulling I use a pulling/hook and double the cable back to the front of the trailer. I have a 50 cable on my winch so I have enough to double it up.
 
  #10  
Old 07-01-2008, 11:14 AM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil
sdetweil is offline
Post Fiend
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Pflugerville, tx
Posts: 11,601
sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.
the keyhole mount is the way the portable winch mounts.. it has 3 slots the winch locks into.

on the trailer, I chain the mount plate to the front upright with 20,000 lb chain. a Ball mount would be easier!.. (duh, didn't even think of that)..

sam
 
  #11  
Old 07-01-2008, 11:19 AM
dongc1's Avatar
dongc1
dongc1 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Gatesville, TX
Posts: 692
dongc1 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Sam,
I have nearly the same setup as you have, but I have a steel floor. I have a 6000# Harbor Freight winch on it. It has a 3/8" cable, not sure how long, but I have never run it all out. It freewheels out by flipping a lever, but it is power in and power out as well. Has a remote on a cable that plugs in. I attached long welding leads to it with jumper cable clips. I just open the hood on the truck and clip onto the battery posts to power it. I have had it for 2-3 years and no problems. I have a dragged a car, that had all of the brakes locked, onto the trailer with it and it did just fine. I think I paid $299 for it and I bought the extended warranty. They will replace it no matter what, even if it falls off the trailer. Your trailer should have channel iron going across it that the wood sets on, drill into it and bolt it down. It would be nice to bolt to two different channels to spread the load. I bolted to the metal floor that was welded to the channel. Come on up to Gatesville and look at mine if you like, only about 1 1/2 hr drive.
 
  #12  
Old 07-01-2008, 11:30 AM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil
sdetweil is offline
Post Fiend
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Pflugerville, tx
Posts: 11,601
sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.
Originally Posted by dongc1 View Post
... I have a dragged a car, that had all of the brakes locked, onto the trailer with it and it did just fine. I
THATS what I'm talking about.. POWER!!.. do you spend $100 now, and bitch later!?

Sam
 
  #13  
Old 07-01-2008, 11:33 AM
LEckart's Avatar
LEckart
LEckart is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Kansas City area
Posts: 1,734
LEckart is starting off with a positive reputation.
Sam-

I just came in from the garage (installing an electric winch) for lunch and found your thread. My trailer looks to be a copy of yours. I had also planned to have the tool box in the same location as yours but now I'm looking at other options. I may mount the winch on a 1/4" plate in front of the front trailer cross member but if I do that it eliminates the tool box in that location. Have you found any interference problems by mounting the winch to the floor at the front of the trailer; I'm concerned if it will be too close to the car/truck being hauled.

I'm replacing a Beebe hand winch with a Smitty ZRC8 (8000lb) with remote. The old Beebe could pull anything I ever needed loaded but I'm tired (too old) to keep cranking on it, especially in hot weather.

Larry
 
  #14  
Old 07-01-2008, 11:48 AM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil
sdetweil is offline
Post Fiend
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Pflugerville, tx
Posts: 11,601
sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.sdetweil has a spectacular reputation.
when my green machine was on the trailer, we had about 3 feet to the front rail, plenty for the winch. (see attached pic with the temp winch, much bigger space requirements)..

I don't intend to pick up anything so big its hangin over the front rails.. I need to add d-rings someplace for the tie straps.. wood floor is getting to be a pita



oh, I got the big tongue box, and it just interferes with the jack handle (can't lay it flat)..

Sam
 
  #15  
Old 07-01-2008, 08:56 PM
dongc1's Avatar
dongc1
dongc1 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Gatesville, TX
Posts: 692
dongc1 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Sam,
You are going through all of the problems that I have had in the past. The wood floor is indeed a PITA. Get some steel plate and bolt it through the wood into the channels underneath and weld on some D rings. I had the same trouble with the tool box, so I made my own to fit the space. I had a rollback trailer and got rid of it because it was a problem pulling it back up, after it was loaded, if you were in sand or on grass. Had a wimpy winch, got a stronger one. The roll back trailer was hard to tow, rode real rough for some reason. I tow the one I have now 70mph and don't even know its back there. I got the ratchets for my straps with hooks built into them. Hook right into my D rings and they are right where I can tighten them easily. I finally have a setup I am real happy with. Can load and unload my truck in 10 minutes without killing myself. Trailer is 18 ft.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: trailer winch guidance, power out


Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.