1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

weigh in...minimum wiring needed to crank it up

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 06-30-2008, 08:13 PM
a BigR HamR's Avatar
a BigR HamR
a BigR HamR is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
weigh in...minimum wiring needed to crank it up

by now you probably know my goal...
54f100 been sitting for 6+ years / just trying to get it cranked.
not planning to drive it / not even run it for very long
fuel and mechanical challenges already overcome by great advice on this forum
current wiring resembles a train wreck so if I start from scratch what is the minimum wiring I need to start the motor?
I don't know that I need lights / gauges / most of the usual stuff.
My thoughts...
battery to ground
battery to solenoid
solenoid to starter
solenoid to coil to distributor to ignition

what do you think? what am I missing? Please weigh in...

Grateful
 
  #2  
Old 06-30-2008, 08:39 PM
bobj49f2's Avatar
bobj49f2
bobj49f2 is online now
Hotshot
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Posts: 16,007
Received 2,059 Likes on 804 Posts
The very basic is as you mentioned; good clean battery cables from the battery to a good grounding spot on the engine block, from battery to solenoid, from solenoid to starter. Next a wire to distributor and then a jumper wire from the coil with aligator clamp on the end to clamp to power post on battery. I like to use the aligator clamp because it will hold onto the battery but you can yank off quick if you have to kill the engine. You can either short the two power studs on the solenoid with a heavy jumper wire or the handles of a pair of pliers. I don't know if you have to energize the solenoid (two stud type) or if you just need to ground it out (one stud type) but you can wire the solenoid to engage, again, with a jumper wire with an aligator clamp. These systems are very basic and don't take much to get running and keep running. Make sure not to leave the coil connected to the battery too long without the engine running or you're going to burn the points.
 
  #3  
Old 06-30-2008, 10:36 PM
4tl8ford's Avatar
4tl8ford
4tl8ford is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Erie, pa
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
This is for an engine stand.
 
  #4  
Old 06-30-2008, 10:46 PM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil
sdetweil is offline
Hotshot

Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Pflugerville, tx
Posts: 11,660
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
fresh oil & filter
AND pump up the oil system before doing ANYTHING.

spray some wd40 or something in the cylinders, crank it over by hand

THEN use the starter to turn it over a few times with the plugs out,
THEN install the plugs..

sam
 
  #5  
Old 07-01-2008, 02:59 PM
a BigR HamR's Avatar
a BigR HamR
a BigR HamR is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
good suggestions...I'll see what progress I can make tonight.

mike
 
  #6  
Old 07-01-2008, 03:40 PM
53OlderThanMe's Avatar
53OlderThanMe
53OlderThanMe is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Highland Village, TX
Posts: 790
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Don't run it long if you have an alternator wired in unless you have a voltage regulator also. Don't ask me how I know.
 
  #7  
Old 07-01-2008, 07:28 PM
Julies Cool F1's Avatar
Julies Cool F1
Julies Cool F1 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Poway, Ca.
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 13 Posts
Don't forget - good clean fuel from a clean source and clean lines.

Mechanical fuel pump - Right? If it's electric you will need power to it as well (as Dicks diagram shows).

FIRE IN THE HOLE!

Good luck!

J!
 




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:20 PM.