Took a look today at my 2000 f-250 super duty with 5.4 engine...wanted to change the plugs - hit a wall 5 minutes into the job.....the 7mm screws that hold the COPs in place wont budge....any suggestions - looks like a job if they snap off....arent the plug boots spring loaded - making these screws absolutely necessary?

also the whole job looks like a major PITA - anyone have a procedure- do the fuel rails have to come off?.....and working under the windshield cowl looks like absolute torture.......Ill need a mattress to cushion my chest/belly on the core support & engine for this job......this wasnt one of Fords "better ideas"

a step by step procedure would be much appreciated - any narrative suggestions/tips/cautions welcomed

thanks in advance

 

Welcome to plug changes on the modulars. IIRC my COP hold down bolts also were rather stiff. I may have upped to a 3/8" ratchet to break them loose. The COP's won't go flying off but they would wobble around and eventually fall off without those hold down screws.

There is always argument over the fuel rail. I have only been able to change plugs on a 4.6L in a car with it intact, on my 5.4L it has to come off. For the back 4 plugs you need every swivel head, swivel extension and length of extension known to get into those plugs.

 

I just finished changing my plugs on a 2000 F250 5.4l 4x4 (thank god it isn't lifted). The way I did it was placing a 3x6 sheet of 3/4 mdf across the front of engine compartment (use scrap 2x4 pieces to shore it up and brace it) on top of this went a "padded moving blanket". This made it almost comfortable to be there. I did not have to remove the fuel rails, however I did rmove the injector electrical conectors to give myself plenty of room. I also removed (and cleaned) the throttle body and throttle body adapter. with this out of the way the plugs were easy to get to. so far as the COP bolts, mine were not overly tight.

 

I did mine last week on 01 e 250 took me about an hour a plug. One thing I used a lot was a magnet to fish the cop bolts out when i dropped them. My chest is still bruised from all the leaning over. Question do the fuel injector connectors have to go back exactly where they were prior to removing the cops?

 

After reading the replies - and scoping out this job on my own truck - and after owning many Ford trucks - some F-series 460s which I THOUGHT were a PITA to change plugs on (esp drivers rear)....I have to say Ford engineers screwed the pooch on this one.....I guess they make the trucks for the first owner who trades before they need changing and FU*K the next guy

How STUPID to put a low torque 330 cubic inch engine in a 6000+ pound truck in the first place - then make it hard to do - what should be- simple maintenance on it...Im NOT impressed with the engine or the unitized front (4x4) axle bearings - another stupid idea - otherwise the truck is OK.....I like my old body style trucks for REAL truck work though - this is my driver - its a big improvement comfort wise over old body style ......good thing I dont drive too much - for all its lackluster power - it still gets 11 mpg ; same (or less) as my old 460 trucks....go figure !

thanks for the replies - I was turned off on the job when I tried to loosen the COP screws - felt like a sure case of 'broken screw trouble' .....so probably not gonna do it....at least until truck runs crappy

 

Buffalo-I did mine and it kicked my ... . Still have a miss. Ordered a set of ebay coils yesterday. My thinking is replace all the cops and save the good old ones for spares. FYI Ford dealer Arlington wanted 350 to replace plugs. and extra 50 because it was a van. The van is a littler easier because of the engine cover can be removed. I paid about 24 for the plugs and 105 for the coils. I figured what I saved I can buy gas for my boat rest of the summer.

 

Read a little of this and it will help alot.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ark-plugs.html