Should be able to start blasting the frame soon then the cab. How many bags should it take to do the frame? When I do the cab I am not sure what I will use, I have been told sand will damage the metal . My pressure blaster isnt big. I can run it steady at about 90psi. Or even at this pressure could it damage the metal?

 

Put a tarp under it, you can re=use a lot of the sand. Just sift it through a window screen before you put it back in the blaster.

 

It takes alot more than I expected.
I can`t remember for sure but 8-10 bags is a good start for just the frame and of course there will be a lot more items such as the axles, brake backing plates, etc you`ll want to blast. As far as reusing the sand some of it will break down into a fine powder dust after the first use. It will still work ok but it will be a little slower in removing rust and the old paint.

 

If you can, go somewhere that sells sand and gravel in bulk. If you have trailer, or know someone with a trailer, load it up and bring it home. Try to keep it as dry as possible, it'll work better if it's dry.

Also, take all the precautions, body protection, eye protection and especially lung protection-don't scimp.

 

With my pressure pot sandblaster any slight amount of moisture would plug it up.
An excellent point on the safety precautions, that can`t be over stated or mentioned enough.
Sandblasting safety link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...th-hazard.html

 

One major question you had didn't get answered. You can blast the sheet metal with your blaster but you have to be very careful and take your time. Thin sheet metal will warp very easily. Stay as far way from it as possible and shoot it at a 45° angle. If you encounter a stubborn spot don't concentrate on it too long. Go away and come back to it later. The heat from the blasting will warp it. If you can I would stay away from the center of large open areas of the sheet metal, work on the edges and creases. If you're trying to remove paint in the bigger area use paint stripper.

 

Isn't there some other blasting material that is safer for the user than sand? I seem to remember reading about something else being used and I think Eastwood sells it. I'm not talking about Soda Blasting either. I was kind of checking out my option sometime back and ran accross this stuff for rust/paint removal. If I get some time later I'll see if I can figure out what it was. Maybe someone else has an idea.

 

There is a product called Black Beauty (I believe that's the name) that is powdered material from coal slag. I assume it is safer for the lungs than sand but don't take my word for it.

 

Black beauty, Walnut shells, aluminum oxide, glass/plastic beads.

some are re-usable, some are not.. most are not good on real rust, and thus are less damaging to the metal surface, and less effective..

and more expensive... 2-25 times. (80lb bag of sand for <$3).. $0.04/lb

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
25lbs walnut shell for $25.. $1/lb

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

glass media, $40/50 lbs $0.80/lb

Sam

 

Black Beauty is iron slag and is very aggressive. I don't think you can use it in a pressure system. I would never use it to blast sheet metal. I use it in my small syphon system because it's a weak system with a smaller air compressor and I can't do much damage with it. It would take me all day if I used plain sand in my system. I have large booth made of a 6' steel cube and I still use a respirator because the dust gets out and will make it hard to breath, I know this for a fact.

There are a lot of other media that you can use, crushed walnut shells for one. It's not as aggressive as sand but is bio degradeable. Search around, you may have a local source for other types of media, just ask around at the place that sells blasting media like sand and Black Beauty. I can buy this in 80# bags at my local hardware store. If they don't have it maybe they can tell you who does. Buying from places like Eastwood may be OK but you going to pay through the nose for shipping and will probably not buy enough and have to wait for another order to be shipped. If there is some place local you can get it from you can buy as much as you need and if you run out take a short drive and get more.


I would still use a respirator not matter what kind of media you use, small particles are small particles and will affect your lungs.

 

I used 10- 80lb bags of sand over the 2 yrs I was sandblasting frame, doors, grills, misc parts.. didn't do the cab or hood.. wished I had..

I used the 40lb Harbour Freight pressure blaster with play sand.. had to window screen it first, and on reload. (used my shop vac to pick it up again)

took 2 times as long to clean and reload as it did to use. (bummer)..

I used 5 gallon cat litter buckets with snap top lids to hold the sifted/picked up sand to keep it dry. damp sand doesn't move..

I blasted in my driveway or carport, never in the garage..

Sam

 

Call the locale area blasting people and go see what they are using and recommend. I've used sand that you would buy for a child's sand box. River sand size varies to much. People that strip and paint Corvettes locally usually know the latest types of stripper to use. Frames can take a ruff stripper especially if you are using something like POR-15, so it will stick to the surface.What ever you buy, test it on a piece of metal with your equipment. Use a face shield/mask and gloves etc. It's dusty,dirty and stings when shooting. If you can afford to, have it stripped. chuck

 

I forgot one more piece of advice I strongly believe-find someone else to do it. I hate blasting, especially bigger part outside in the summer heat.

I have a lot of experience blasting outside. I worked for a truck body shop for about four years, one of my jobs was blasting frames, and other parts, and the other job was pressure washing trucks before starting the body work. It always seemed there was blasting to be done when it was 80-90° or pressure washing when it was around 30-40°, neither was a fun experience.

Before buying media check out a few shops first, you will be a lot better off, IMO.

I have found a local guy that will do the blasting for me for probable three times what it will cost me to just buy the material. The benefits are I don't have to find a place to do the big jobs, it's messy and media will get everywhere, I don't have to cook my brains out under the sun, I don't have to handle heavy pieces and best of all I don't have to clean up. I still do small parts in my booth but any larger pieces I take the blaster.

If you have someone in your area that will blast the bigger parts I strongly suggest you go there. Shop around, I found there is a wide range of prices to do it. Also, ask for references, not everyone can do sheet metal. I had a place blast and epoxy prime the cab, inside and out, the two rear doors of one of my panels for $600. This guy did a great job, no warpage that I detected and I blocked sanded the entire body so if there were any warpage I would have noticed it. This was about six years ago but I can't see it costing much more now, maybe $800. The lastest guy I found is only about five miles from house. About two years ago he blasted and epoxy primed main part of my 8N tractor, top to bottom, for $300 and did an excellent job. I did the sheet metal parts myself in my booth.

 

When I did my frame and cab, I went through 12 bags of sand. I re-used most of it, until I was down to just a half a bucket full - the rest went to the ground. I put a visqueen plastic sheet down, and swept it up. You can take a 5-gallon bucket, cut a hole in the bottom, and cut it off about 5" from the bottom. Then take a piece of screen, put it over the top of the top piece, and shove the cut off bottom with the hole over the screen into the bucket - voila, instant filter screen, of large quantity! Works great.

Also, be aware, that play sand is packaged "wet", to keep the dust down at the factory. I had to take 4 or 5 bags at a time, spread it on the neighbors concrete driveway, and keep spreading it until it was dry. Then I put it into a trash can. Wet is NOT good! Keep your compressor blown down of moisture, as well. It's bad enough getting all dressed up, and HOT, then having to stop to fix the blaster...

I agree with Bob - strip chemically all the large surface areas. I did one panel, and it warped in about 2 seconds! Wasn't on the truck, and was a repair patch I made, but I was really surprised how quickly it warped! Real "curvy" places, like the floorboard, and dash, work fine. Just don't stay in any one place for very long - sorta like welding on the panels.



On the frame?? Aggressive is fine - just make sure you cover anything you don't want sand in. I knew I was going to replace the wheel bearing, etc, so didn't worry too much, but when I found my kingpins bad, you'd be amazed how much sand was between two surfaces that you wouldn't have though it could have worked it's way into! Also, don't forget the breather on the rear end - wouldn't take much to pound that full. Also, all your zerks should be removed, and cleaned afterwards - in other words, the sand gets EVERY where!!



(you can see the home-made filter screen back by the blaster - nice thing is, it fits perfectly into another 5 gallon bucket!)

Good luck...and most of all, have fun!!

R

 

Thanks guys. I lov the bucket idea for sreening the sand. Thinking I may get the local guy to do cab. Qouted me about 5 hours at $100 per hour.Would take me 3 days to do cab. I can pick up an extra shift at work for those 3 days and just pay him.