1956 F-600
#61
#63
Always good to see another F600 being made driveable again. On the brake cylinders, you likely have the two cylinder setup on the rear brakes - nothing like the smaller trucks. A hone is not all that expensive, and I have used home made ones (a piece of wooden dowel rod with a slot at one end and a piece of Scotch-Brite).
Before you go looking for parts to rebuild them, first take them apart and inspect the bores. If they are pitted, no sense trying to hone and rebuild, as they will leak anyway. The parts to rebuild wheel cylinders are available, as are the whole cylinder. I recently found four new rear wheel cylinders (Raybestos brand) for mine on Ebay at about $20 apiece, so sometimes you can get lucky.
Before you go looking for parts to rebuild them, first take them apart and inspect the bores. If they are pitted, no sense trying to hone and rebuild, as they will leak anyway. The parts to rebuild wheel cylinders are available, as are the whole cylinder. I recently found four new rear wheel cylinders (Raybestos brand) for mine on Ebay at about $20 apiece, so sometimes you can get lucky.
#64
I have not had tiem to do much of anythign lately with my new job at hand. I now work at Autozone, which I find much more tolerable than Ponderosa. I got a few spare parts for the truck thsi week, two more single piece rims with solid tires on them (also 9.00/22.5s), an intake and carburetor, and a starter. The truck was driven to my house a few miles away, which was rather interesting. The two speed motor and mechanism is shot, froze up. The truck topped out at 40 down hill, I hope it is stuck in low range, but I won't complain. I cleaned out the gas tank, so that can be hooked up again. I might be done until next spring, it is getting cold up here and we have not had decent weather in a week. One last thing I did was grease up the rear suspension.
#65
I have not had tiem to do much of anythign lately with my new job at hand. I now work at Autozone, which I find much more tolerable than Ponderosa. I got a few spare parts for the truck thsi week, two more single piece rims with solid tires on them (also 9.00/22.5s), an intake and carburetor, and a starter. The truck was driven to my house a few miles away, which was rather interesting. The two speed motor and mechanism is shot, froze up. The truck topped out at 40 down hill, I hope it is stuck in low range, but I won't complain. I cleaned out the gas tank, so that can be hooked up again. I might be done until next spring, it is getting cold up here and we have not had decent weather in a week. One last thing I did was grease up the rear suspension.
#66
Having JUST gotten back from driving all day again today and coming across this topic which I haven't seen before, I had a slight moment of panic as I opened it and saw you buying a Red 1956 F-600... mainly because mine is finally after 7 months of problems, being delievered for me tomorrow... for a split second I thought it was mine and somehow sold... lol
*nevermind the logic in this, its what happens when you're waaaay too tired*
Kinda cool to have two of us working on similiar trucks right now. I'm bobtailing mine ^_^
*nevermind the logic in this, its what happens when you're waaaay too tired*
Kinda cool to have two of us working on similiar trucks right now. I'm bobtailing mine ^_^
#67
#68
You can try squeezing the wire harness at the red button really tight to make sure the connection is good, a company that I worked for used to wrap wire ties around them to keep the connection tight, as the button would get a lot of use and the nubs inside the switch would wear down.
If it is not the button switch inside the cab then remove the two speed motor from the rear, then touch it to a battery post or battery charger, if it spins the motor is fine and the automatic switch inside the motor housing needs to be replaced. If that is the case you can buy this switch from a truck parts supplier such as an International truck dealer, this part is probably around $20.00 and easy to replace.
Also, while you have the motor off, reach into the rear end with a screw driver and manually shift it into high range (truck not running of-course) this will let you drive it at normal operating speed.
Keep in mind that the larger trucks may share chassis parts with many different makes and years, as the truck manufacturer in most cases did not make the transmission, rear end, brake components, etc, and used them for many years. Example: 1950's-70's, Ford, GMC, IHC, so cross reference with parts that are easier to find, that keeps my trucks running.
That is a really nice looking project truck. do you have any pictures of the COE?
If it is not the button switch inside the cab then remove the two speed motor from the rear, then touch it to a battery post or battery charger, if it spins the motor is fine and the automatic switch inside the motor housing needs to be replaced. If that is the case you can buy this switch from a truck parts supplier such as an International truck dealer, this part is probably around $20.00 and easy to replace.
Also, while you have the motor off, reach into the rear end with a screw driver and manually shift it into high range (truck not running of-course) this will let you drive it at normal operating speed.
Keep in mind that the larger trucks may share chassis parts with many different makes and years, as the truck manufacturer in most cases did not make the transmission, rear end, brake components, etc, and used them for many years. Example: 1950's-70's, Ford, GMC, IHC, so cross reference with parts that are easier to find, that keeps my trucks running.
That is a really nice looking project truck. do you have any pictures of the COE?
#69
I have taken the cover plate off the 2 speed mechanism already, the shaft connected to the motor is rusted into place, and the screws holding the bottom plate on the housing are just stripping.I think I will end up getting a whole new motor and housing for it, and seems how the shaft is frozen I can't take the sliding block out of my way to shift the rear end. I have another topic in the projects section for the C600.
#70
I made a little more progress with the monster today, I have the 2 speed ripped apart and the truck is now in high range. Now 1st (what people tell me is called double low) is like 2nd gear in low range. No brakes yet, but that is my next task. I found a guy who may have a set of 4 new 9.00x22.5s for me, will know in a few days. I dropped a used battery I got from work in ti today, which certainly beats using a tiny jumper pack to start it lol. I might also have a lead on a carburetor kit, but I am curious if anybody has a Napa or Autozone part number for it...the Carter ABD. I have two other carburetors kicking around, but I would prefer to keep this one on it. I might even be able to look one up at Autozone seems how I work there, but I just need to know if there is one Ford vehicle that only used that particular carb on it. I keep getting results for Holley carbs... but any pointers in the right direction would be great! I know a carb kit is just what the truck needs to kill the rough idle/ "selective" idle. But if not, I have two other carbs to fall back on. I have one of the Tea pot ones and some other monstrosity I have never seen before, another Holley product.
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