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Support mounting question

Old Jun 19, 2008 | 09:26 AM
  #1  
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Support mounting question

Just a fast ? before I head into work. Specs in siggy for the truck in question. I ordered in via NPD new radiator support rubber's in the 'kit' format. Our old ones are trashed badly. Left side is missing the lower rubber completely, and the right one the top bushing is pushed just about out of the retainer. Makes the whole front of the truck look lop-sided. (frame is fine, did a quick measurement using the bumper and it's even, but the body is cocked off to one side due to crappy mounting rubbers.)

Now I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer when it comes to body mounts. The kit contains 4 new rubber bushings, 4 jumbo washers, 4 smaller washers, and the sleeve the rubbers mount over.

I'm guessing the bottom end mounts rubber to the frame, jumbo washer, small washer, and the nut for the retaining bolt.

The question is for the radiator support mount. Should it be rubber against the frame, jumbo washer, support mount, small washer with the bolt going through everything? Or should the order be rubber to the frame, place the support mount on top of the rubber--then the jumbo washer, then the small washer?

What is left of the former parts are trashed, and are in pretty sad shape, it looks like the smaller washer has pulled through the right radiator support mount? (in which case I have no problem with using another larger washer if that retaining hole is worn out a bit) Given the cob-jobs I've already found? It's clear these parts have been replaced before, and it's also clear they probably didn't get replaced correctly. Just need the order to install things.

Thanks in advance

S-
 
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 10:47 AM
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Rubber to the frame, then the core support on top of the rubber, then a large washer, small washer, bolt. However, you may need to shim the support for alignment so a shim would go between the rubber bushing and core support. At least this is the way I've seen it done.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 07:42 PM
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That makes sense. The old parts on the right side? It looks pretty clear the smaller nut pulled through the mount, and the rubber is all squished out to the rear of the mount. (only about 1/8" actually doing anything). If the larger washer was on top of the mount? That would clearly have prevented the smaller washer and nut from getting pulled through.

Thanks!

S-
 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 06:58 PM
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Well, on the pain in the tuckas meter? That job just rated a solid 7 out of 10.

Passenger side? Frame mount area HEAVY wear from the old dead rubber. The spacers used? Just one big pile of rust. It was someones idea of a quick-fix that didn't work out. I wound up ditching the spacers (not worth saving, just a hunk of rusted garbage) went rubber to the support mount. Had to grind the large metal washer to fit into place in the support. Nailed it down using my electric impact. The rubber still feels 'loose'...and the nut/bolts are as tight as it gets, but you can still turn them with a wrench. (the nut is against the end stop on the bolt) On Sunday when we do more body work? I might see if I can throw in a couple fender washers between the rubber and the radiator support to tighten it down more. It's a rough job considering the nuts are the self-locking type, and trying to hold the impact in one hand---wrench in the other...and trying not to smash knuckles in the process.

Drivers side was a full blown pain. Factory lower retainer that was rusted in place to the inner rubber sleeve. Again, all the spacers just a big pile of rust...and the frame area also has very heavy wear...I'd say on both sides it's very thin, maybe the thickness of a fridge magnet at the thinest point. Thankfully as you go further from the edge of the mounting holes? It gets thicker. I wound up pealing the last spacer like a grape, it rusted itself onto the steel inner sleeve, which was just about welded to the factory lower mount.

The rubbers on both sides are not as compressed as I'd like, however it's pretty solid and the front end/grill area looks to be where it belongs. It did set off more body mount noises under the cab's front mounts. It feels like a springy snap under my left foot while driving over bumps. That's about where the cob-jobbed crappy cab mount repair panel is. Looks like I'll get to install new front cab mounts, floor pans pretty soon to get the rest of it where it belongs.

All in all? Pain in the rear job, and I'm glad it's done.

S-
 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 07:08 PM
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Glad to hear you got the job done. I know when I tore mine down, I never expected to save anything so I just impacted the bolts off until they broke or came loose. Then I had to pretty much torch the bushings off. Metal under mine wasn't bad. New rubber bushings, new lower retainer nuts, new bolts, washers, shims etc.

When you get to the cab mounts, try to save the hardware. Bushings don't matter, but the hardware (upper and lower retainters) are expensive to replace. And also, expect your mounting frame brackets to be rusted pretty fierce when you have the bushings off. These are what my highboys ones looked like.

 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 07:17 PM
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The hardware's gonna get replaced with the bushings. The old steel mounts the cab's fronts started with? Rusted away years ago. Someone (you'll love this) Used heavy gauge steel, manage to fold it to a box shape with creative welding. It's held in place to the floors of the cab using everyone's favorite!! Stove bolts. 3 in a triangle pattern. Probably the worst corn-cob repair I've seen to date. So it's pretty much a safe bet--if the passenger side crap repair using el' cheapo parts that wore the snot out of the frame--The hardware is not even close to being to specs LOL.

How much of a pain in the rear end is the replacement of the frame support bars? I'm expecting to see wear just as bad--if not worse when I do ours..

S-
 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 07:22 PM
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The rivets are kind of a pain to punch out. Works pretty good just grinding of the heads and using an air punch to try and get them punched through. Or use a torch, just have to be careful. I had my cab completely off, so it made it much easier.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 07:26 PM
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Sounds like I'm about 3 steps behind yours LOL.

I'll give this ol' girl a lot of credit. It's a heck of a lot easier to work with then the Probe GT my better half used to drive.

Ok...drill/hammer out rivets.. Any recommendation on mounting hardware to the frame? I'm thinking Grade 8 with big ol' washers and stuff LOL.

S-
 
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