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EBPV/ brake kwik version question

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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 04:38 PM
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Question EBPV/ brake kwik version question

I was wondering if there was a more simple way to do this. I am not the best at wiring things up when I read somewhere that I could fry the computer. Not saying Kwik's ( Dan's ) way is not good but there is alot of wiring going on there.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 04:44 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...brake-mod.html

Here is more on it. Forgot how to post a url
 
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 07:42 PM
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Which part scares you? I didn't read the link he referenced, because like Kwik, I have the 6 speed so no worries about a torque converter lock up. If you're just worried about where he mentions shorting out the ECU, then disconnect your batteries for 10 minutes before you cut any wires or make any splices. Then make sure all your splices are sealed and you don't have any loose copper strands hanging out of any connections.

I've had wiring issues with my main engine wiring harness where it chaffed near the valve cover and when it grounded out it would reset the PCM causing the truck to stall. Got the wires fixed and never had any issues with the computer.

Hooking a couple of wires together isn't too difficult, and with the instructions available you don't have to worry about trying to figure it all out by yourself. Besides there are plenty of folks here willing to help if you get stuck along the way. Look at it this way. You can do some damage hooking battery cables up backward too, but once you know how to do it, battery cables are no big deal.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 03:34 PM
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Hey Chris, someone else has mentioned that you don't need all the wires in kwik's sketch and was also wondering if this is true. What I was thinking was just slicing into the wire that feeds the ebpv into a switched power and then running the wire to a resister then to the valve. That shouldn't back feed the pcu and in wintertime I have to turn the valve on to help warm up the motor. Is this about right?
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 05:13 PM
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Ok I didnt read through the whole writeup but I got my info from the diesel stop.com(before I stayed here alot) When I did mine all I have is one wire going out under the hood and thats to the plug at the valve. There I have two resistor diodes tied in a Y, one in the wire I ran and one on the wire i cut in the two wire plug at the valve. The bottom of the Y I made got solder to the wire coming out of the plug. I think from what you just said is that your wanting to put one resistor diode in the wire that you are running??? I think you would still need two resistors to keep power from back feeding the wire you install and the other to keep from back feeding the factory wires going to the plug. This all may be in Kwiks writeup or be how his install is. Probably could have saved myself some typing and read the WHOLE writeup.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by redfire42
Hey Chris, someone else has mentioned that you don't need all the wires in kwik's sketch and was also wondering if this is true. What I was thinking was just slicing into the wire that feeds the ebpv into a switched power and then running the wire to a resister then to the valve. That shouldn't back feed the pcu and in wintertime I have to turn the valve on to help warm up the motor. Is this about right?
I'm not an electrician, but the only extra wire I see in Dan's diagram is an additional ground wire (just to be on the safe side). He went ahead and cut the ground wire in addition to the hot wire on his set up. I would guess it would work either way. Maybe one of our electrician friends will comment on advantages of one way over another.

If you have any doubts about it I don't think you'll go wrong following kwiks advice.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 07:42 PM
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OK guys I will do what Dan's write up says to do along with the switch diagram I posted. I will do it this weekend sometime. Thanks for the comfedence booster. If I need help, "I'll be back"
 
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 03:29 PM
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I've done it, and it works. Ran out of wire and hod to go get more. Its weird, a little mod like that costing so little and taking so much wire, why didn't fod do it. Dodge has one on the 08 and we've had them since 99 its just Ford didn't want to wire it up I guess.

Anyways thanks for the confadence guys another PMS mod in the books...
 
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 07:39 PM
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It wasn't that bad, was it?
I thought the way that I did it was about as simple and basic as you could get and still have it operate like factory if you want it to without blowing computer circuits.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 08:53 PM
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I probably didnt use15' of wire when I did mine. Tied the hot in the fuse panel and got my hot brakelight wire from my trailer brake box.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 02:53 PM
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And I assume using it wont hurt anything? I did read the higher the rpm the more braking you get but is it going to blow out my up pipe donutes or something? I tryed it when emty around 1900 rpm's and it did help slow me down some. I just like playing with it
 
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 09:30 AM
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It works best at 2500 and above. Very effective for slowing the truck and trailer down on a mountain pass. Hardly have to touch the brake pedal at all.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 10:15 AM
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Thanks Dan again!!
 
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