engine/exhaust brake
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 750
Likes: 1
engine/exhaust brake
Debating whether its worth doing or not. Couldn't find any videos on youtube or anything but do you guys think its worth doing it the DIY way?
Anybody got that link on how to make it yourself? I remember adding it to my favorites but can't find it and the search feature not workin for me now
Anybody got that link on how to make it yourself? I remember adding it to my favorites but can't find it and the search feature not workin for me now
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,608
Likes: 13
From: Belair md
its worth doing, takes almost no time at all to do it, my readings on ebp were high but technicly in the safe zone. i would recomend a gauge if you were planning on using it quite frequently but for fun here and there i see no issues running it.
here are the pics i think you want.
here are the pics i think you want.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
I did mine and if you put a gauge on there you may want to put an isolator or filter in there. The gauge gets clogged up fast with soot and carbon especially if you have the 10K mod or blow any smoke at all. IMO there is no need for a gauge if you use our EBPV setup. I have had my truck pulling a 5er HEAVY and down some REALLY steep grades (atleast for the right coast standards) and never had any BP levels get anywhere close to dangerous. This is just my opinion based on my experiences with my gauge.(disclaimer)
To hook it up:
Unplug the EBPV and cut the wire with the red tracer on it (harness side of plug)
Cap off the harness side of the cut you just made with tape or similiar.
Run a fused & switched hot wire to the plug side of the wire you just cut.
Plug the plug back in and you are done.
All you are doing is putting a 12v supply to the side of the plug with the red tracer. It takes about 3-4 seconds for the brake to come on fully but if you drive accordingly it is well worth the 3 dollars you invested. It only takes about 5 minutes to do the whole job. I would say level one on the hard job-o-meter.
To hook it up:
Unplug the EBPV and cut the wire with the red tracer on it (harness side of plug)
Cap off the harness side of the cut you just made with tape or similiar.
Run a fused & switched hot wire to the plug side of the wire you just cut.
Plug the plug back in and you are done.
All you are doing is putting a 12v supply to the side of the plug with the red tracer. It takes about 3-4 seconds for the brake to come on fully but if you drive accordingly it is well worth the 3 dollars you invested. It only takes about 5 minutes to do the whole job. I would say level one on the hard job-o-meter.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,729
Likes: 2
If you don't want to keep turning it on and off with the switch while driving get a 12v relay from napa or else where and run your 12v switch power across the NC contacts (if I'm remebering right...). Run one side of the coil to a ground the other side to the IVS, this way as soon as the pedal is pushed the power is relay opens and the brake goes off. Only adds about 5 more mins and around 10 bucks
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
microdevil45
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
60
Oct 27, 2021 02:03 PM
renyren
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
17
Nov 19, 2009 09:34 AM
Butchslittlesister
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
Apr 20, 2003 02:36 PM
