You are gonna have to manufacture something. The "test pipes" of years ago were made illegal by the EPA, as to many people were replacing their cats and they don't like anyone not following their orders, hence the $10,000 fines for removing emissions equipment if you get caught.

 

Hey Rebus,
The thread seems to be wandering a bit. Any updates on your problem? Sounds like several members would like to know what, if anything, you have found.
Roger Carter

 

Same here just came across the thread. Had an idea for ya if you are still having a problem. Try shortening the spark plug gap. It takes more juice to jump the gap with more cylinder pressure (full throttle). If shortening the gap helps then the solution is to upgrade the ignition.

 

Well, where was I? I replaced the engine temperature sensor and the air temperature sensor (mounted on the manifold near the engine temp sensor). I still get the EGR code but just ignore it now. I've instead disabled the EGR. I've never liked that system anyway. The power loss problem is is not as bad as a result, but still is not perfect. It does have another pronounced problem now. Air/fuel mixture is better everywhere except idle. It idles roughly, with about a 13:1 mixture. Just crack it off idle and it jumps to 14.5 - 14.9:1. Any idea why idle would be so rich? I'm thinking it has something to do with the idle air solenoid. Either it is restricted from crud buildup or is not working properly. I don't think it is adjustable.

 

Just a guess, maybe, & I'm dumb when it comes to Fords, but how about cylinder compression & the valves.
I know you said 89 model FI, but I got an 87 carb model in a M/H & the heads are giving me fits.
Just a guess.
Neil

 

How is the idle speed? The IAC responds almost entirely to idle speed so if idle speed is fine The IAC is probably OK, to test you should get a momentary jump in idle speed when you first put it in gear and when you turn on the AC.

 

Different engine I realize, but on my 4.6 PI V-8 in my Crown Vic, I got an EGR code along with engine running at full rich both banks. Idle was fine however full throttle or under power were very flat. Had nothing to do with the EGR. I found an air leak at the seal between the plastic air box and the throttle valve. Replaced the seal and all lights when out, performance returned to normal, as did gas mileage.

 

Idle speed is fine. It does speed up when put in drive.

Scott

 

I got an idea on your idle problems. When was the last time you serviced your injectors? Leaking injectors (that's what they do when there worn) could vary easily cause a rough and rich idle.

Two things happen with worn injectors. The injectors will leak to the point that the computer can't shorten the pulse width enough to lean the engine out at idle. And the spray pattern will suck, it will be more of a drip, this will cause a significent loss of power and a rough idle.

 

If it was a rich idle there should be a code for it as the O2 sensor would pick it up.

 

Undo the battery,hit the brakes to bleed the juice off? See what happens?

 

And this would prove what?

 

I think he's saying to reset the computer.

 

That would depend entirely on the location and condition of the O2 sensors.

 

I don't think I ever saw an O2 sensor located anywhere except in the exhaust system. In fact my '93 Crown Vic PI has two, one in each exhaust pipe. But a single exhaust usually has it after the "Y". But hey, you can put yours where ever you want.