WOW...added and checked ground and still only 12.5V using a solid state VOM, Hummm, here's some pics, not that they'll help, but maybee.

 

12.5 is ok for idle...but it should be higher than what the is voltage after the engine has been off for a while......... try running at about 1500-2000 rpm, all accessories on, as in lights, heater, wipers and check voltage then.......

ps
the pic of the voltage regulator is a solid state version, IMHO way better than the old points style

 

O.K. I went back throuh the whole checklist testing everything again, this time I have the power wire completeing the circut and when I jump the a and f terminals at the regulator plug I get my 13.5 volts I have a new regulator and a couple of extra good used ones as well, so it must be the terminal plug and or the wires leading to the ALT, yeah? Here's a link of what I think is the Culprit.
AutoZone.com | Shopping | Parts | Product Detail - Connector - Voltage Regulator

 

Yeah I can see that........have seen it before......and will see it again .....wire terminals in plug corrodes, circuit resistance goes up, field current/voltage goes down, alt charging rate goes down......
Very easy to replace, and cheap even better try and run/replace with as much new wire as you can......old wiring sucks.....see corrosion note above.
Also check the spade terminals on the voltage regulator they like to corrode to........ put some dielectric grease or vaseline on the spade terminals before you install the plug and you should have no more corrosion probs there for years.

 

If you have one wire in the engine bay, you may have more wires/grounds on the verge of causing a malifunction. I would check all, it will make for a happy driver as time go by. I solder all my connections, terminals/splices etc. Looking at the yellow wire on the relay is good example of why to solder. It will collect water in the wire strands and corrode. Have a great day,chuck

 

Thanks Sparky and Chuck,
good advice....I wish I had a few extra bucks....I'd buy an EZ wiring kit and be done with it...but it seems other things always get in the way, Mortgage, Insurance, Utilities, etc.etc. Bills just suck man, so I plug away with my limited budget and hope for the best. One day though things will come together, In the mean time everyones help and advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks again Dan. Check this post again and I will let you know how things worked or did'nt.

 

Good luck...... I am usually around here at least once a day..... so I will check the thread.........or PM me if you need more info.... etc
Chuck is right about those wires not looking the greatest but..........throw some vaseline over them to keep out the water does not take alot......... replace when you can.... Rome wasn't built in a day as the saying goes

 

O.K. I must be starting too sound like a real dumb *** here, but here it goes. The test I ran using Sparky's diagnostic/troubleshoot guide, It tells me that I have a bad "S" and/or "I" wire running to/through the ignition. It says to replace/check for breaks. Well how do I know if its hooked up correctly to begin with. "S" wire is running to "S" terminal on back of the ignition switch "I" wire is running to IGN on the back of the ignition switch. "I" goes through the Ballast Resistor before reaching the coil and then to the "I' Terminal on the starter solenoid. "S" goes to coil as well (spliced together with "I") going to the coil before going to the "S" terminal on the Starter Solinoid. At first I thought it was refering to the Voltage Regulator connector so I repplaced that connector and wires. Basically ALT is charging just isn't making to the BAT. I could'nt be more confused at this point in time. Help please Dan

 

Ok do not confuse igntion circuit and charging circuits, although they both have terminals labeled "I" ,"S", or whatever they are referring to different terminals, wires etc.............................
Since you are working on the charging circuit you will be concerned with the wires on/from the alternator and the voltage regulator, silver flat box in your #1 pic:
Here are the 4 terminals of the voltage regulator and what they do and where they go:
F= to alternator field "F" terminal, controls the voltage the alternator puts out, keeps it around 13.5 to 14.5 volts under varying loads

A= to battery positive post, not sure why it is A, but the wire can go to the battery positive post, or to the large terminal on the starter relay that the battery positive wire is hooked to, electrically it is the same place.......it is the output of the alternator to the battery and fuse box....for charging and powering the truck when the alternator is turning

I= is for indication not hooked to anything if using ammeter.....but if using idiot light it runs to the idiot light thru the ignition key, that way when the key is off the light is off....as the light only cares if there is no alternator output, and can't differentiate between engine running and engine off.... so that is what the ignition key does for it.

S= to stator terminal on alternator, if using idiot light......... if using ammeter,then it is hooked to a wire that has voltage on it only when the key is in "run" position........ this turns regulator on and off

Hope I haven't confused you even more
To bad you are so far away would not mind helping you to check/rewire it

 

No, you have'nt confused me more.....as a matter of fact I may know what the deal is, you see I am working on my dash's instrument cluster. Its actually out of the truck. I may have cut the idiot light wire or maybee not. It may just be disconnected or not grounded or whatever. Those are very clear and concise descriptions of what each terminal on the charging system does. Let me go back and run through the checklist of tests again.
Thanks Dan

 

O.K. When I replaced the bad Voltage Regulator terminal, all i could find was the three wire. I originally had a four wire for the dummy light. Well that was the problem, I hooked the Stator wire to the back of the ALT like before. So I changed that to the IGN switch and it works fine now. between 13.5 and 14V depending on the engine RPM's. I would've never guessed that the dummy light would have broke the circut, and all I could figure was the circut is'nt complete. Thank you so much for all your help!
Thanks Dan

 

No problemo...... glad it is working

 

Just noticed I screwed up in the description
"A" on the voltage regulator is just the alternator voltage sensing circuit....it still goes to the battery positive though... the charge/power feed is the wire from the "BATT" terminal of the alternator to the battery positive ...........my bad

 

All good info....it will be going into my notebook I keep. Its kinda a tech manual specific for my truck, I just copy and paste into a word doc and print for my three ring binder. Kudos my friend you done good.
Thanks Dan