I have a valve that seems to stick open causing a commpresson loss and a little ticking noise. I assume it ticks because it is slightly open and when the cam shaft turns it hits it open farther. Otherwise this engine runs beautiful.

I have never done a valve job before, but I am pretty mechanical.

I have already tryed mystery oil in the cylinder, gas and oil and transmission fluid in the carb while running trick, nothing has worked to date. The problem is intermitent, but when it reappears I do get a slight miss.

Are any special tools needed to remove the valves or can I do it with the regular stuff, how hard is it, any advice? What else should I do when I get in there with the heads and manifold off. I would like to try it my self,

How much would I expect to pay if I find a local shop? Anyone know of a good shop/person in the Ft Lauderdale area?

Thanks

Bryan

 

You can do the valves, just keep in mind they're "upside down" from a later engine. The old standby Ford tool was like a modified pry bar and can be used to pry the spring down to remove the upper retainer or pry the spring up to remove the valve keepers and lower retainer. The valve then lifts up and out of the block.

Likely you have an exhaust valve that has more carbon deposits than the remedies you've tried can handle. Clean the guide and drop a new valve in and put it back together. NAPA carries the valves here. I haven't tried, but I think you could use a modern valve removal tool. It will be tight since you are working right next to the lifter. Turn the engine over so the valve is closed to start with.

You can hand lap a new valve with one of the suction cup on a stick and a little grinding compound. If your engine is a '52 or '53 it probably doesn't have hardened seats, so if you need any machining done you have to pull the block. Since your problem is intermittent a new valve should solve things.

 

So you are telling me that I can basicaly use something to pry down the spring, remove harware that holds the valve in place, install and hand lap a valve, piece of cake?

Does the valve install easily too?

I understand what hand lapping a valve is, but can someone elaborate, so I can give it a try?

Thanks
Bryan

 

Does the spring and everyting stay in place when the vavle come out?

 

Sorry, Brian, I wasn't too clear with that info.

You pry the spring down and remove the upper retainer if you're removing the valve, spring, and guide as one unit.

All you need to do - probably - in this case is use a tool to compress the spring so you can get the keepers off and then lower the spring back down on the lifter (those two semi-circular wedges just like modern valves) This frees the valve so it can be pulled out of the guide.

Reassembly is the reverse.
Shade tree trick when you reassemble - daub some grease on the keepers before you try to stick them in place. The grease holds them on the valve stem while you carefully lower the spring/retainer back in place.

 

Thanks, buying some manifold and head gaskets today so I can take a look and see.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 29-Jul-02 AT 06:39 PM (EST)]one of those big c clamp type valve spring tools worked the best for me, you might have to take the guide out with the valve on some, if the valve is musruomed. good luck