No. Only the front hub bearings on a 4WD are non-serviceable. On the rear wheels, the outer bearing should already be in the stack of parts you have, and the inner is only held in by the seal. The seal should be replaced while you have it apart anyhow . . .

 

Guys,

I'm collecting parts for my overhaul and the brake kit on Guzzle's site shows PN F81Z-2648-CA, but it says it's not compatible with my vehicle on ebay. Is my SRW e99 using these, or another part number?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-99-04-F-250-Super-Duty-Parking-Brake-Shoes-9U2Z2A753A-/262023481723?hash=item3d01d1097b&vxp=mtr

 

According to the link you posted from ebay, all 1999 and up trucks use the same emergency brake shoes. And, if Guzzle (Bob) says they'll work, they'll work. My experience says that all the emergency brake shoes and hardware are the same. The variables that come into play are the rotors, brake calipers and pads that fit the calipers. Also the wheel seals may different, if you're pulling the hub to do this repair. Some Ford trucks have left hand threads on the drivers side rear spindle. That also varies from truck to truck.

 

I just went thru my 06 SD front hubs and the needle bearing or my case, the spindle bearing is replaceable. On the 4x4...

 

Thanks! I thought so. But when I actually enter my truck it says no. I want to replace everything, so it might take me a bit to get everything.

Does anyone have the part numbers for the hardware kit, ie: adjuster,springs,etc?

 

Is this the same for a 2005 f250 diesel? Thanks

 

They are the same. There might be a difference in the parts, I don't know about that,. But the repair procedure is the same.

 

So I put the new bearings in and inner seal. I torqued the spindle ratchet nut to 60 then backed it off 5 clicks. The spindlw/hub will turn but not easily. Is that because its a new seal in there or is it supposed to turn easily. (axle is not in yet)

 

It will have some resistance, especially if new bearings and races were installed. Did you put some oil in the hub between the bearings? And did you put some oil on the bearings?

 

With axle out & brake caliper off it should turn free with new or used bearings,the seal wont have much resistance.

 

Everyone I do is by feel when it comes to wheel bearings and seals. It has been my experience that new bearings will be a little stiffer than ones that have been broke in/seated.

 

From this article:
93 f250: steps to replace a right rear axle seal..cab..4wd

Hub Nut Installation

1. Install Hub Wrench Tool T85T-4252-AH on spindle.

1. Tighten hub nut to 75-88 Nm (55-65 ft-lb). Rotate hub occasionally while tightening. NOTE: The hub nut will ratchet as torque is applied.

1. Hub nut adjustment:
   1. For new bearings, after tightening to specification 75-88 Nm (55-65 ft-lb), ratchet back five teeth or notches on the hub nut. Five clicks must be heard during this operation in order to have performed it correctly.
   1. For used bearings, after tightening to specification 75-88 Nm (55-65 ft-lb), ratchet back eight teeth or notches on the hub nut. Eight clicks must be heard during this operation in order to have performed it correctly.

 

I am in the process of doing my rear axle seals and I had an OEM 2 piece seal. The Ford dealer looked up the parts with the VIN number and gave me a 1 piece seal. The old seal broke apart when I removed the hub and I can't get the inner part of the seal that seats on the axle to come off, any suggestions?? The other question is am I OK going back with the 1 piece seal as a replacement?? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Does someone have a list of part numbers for the seals, O rings, bearings, cups, and perhaps the e brack actuator arm? In all these threads I haven't seen an aggregated list for them.

 

Do not have a parts list. There are potentially 2 different seals for these axles, and they are not interchangeable. The seal surface on Ford axles came in 2 different diameters. If your axle had the 2 piece seal on it, then you better get the 2 piece to put back on it.

To remove the stuck piece, you will need a hammer and chisel, and you will need to be VERY Careful! Sometimes folding the back part of the seal down with a hammer can loosen it up enough to come off. This rarely works, but it's worth a try. The next option is to drive it off with the hammer and chisel taking extreme care to not damage the axle seal surface. If you can get the chisel imbedded into the part of the seal that's folded down, it won't be hitting the seal surface.