239 rebuild
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,958
Likes: 105
From: Houston
Might be alittle late but I have a digital copy of the 1949-59 Ford Parts illustration and text catalogs and for the 55 and up 272.292.312 engines typical it shows the part number for the bolt you are seeking as to be 6A340, the washer is 372757-S and the crank pulley without power steering is part number 6312, the 292 and 312 Tbird engines has the same part number for the pulley as does the pass engines and so do the bolt and washer. If you have power steering the power steering pulley part number is 6A312 and the crankshaft bolt is 20408-S and lock washer is 34807-S, the bolts that holds this second belt pulley to the crank pulley is 21063-S with lock washer 34850-S.
As I said this might be alittle late but it appears all Y blocks used the same part number crank bolt and washer as far as the 272.292.312 engine goes.
As I said this might be alittle late but it appears all Y blocks used the same part number crank bolt and washer as far as the 272.292.312 engine goes.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
From: Bend, Oregon
Not only am I needing the carb spacer/gasket, but also, a gasket for the intake...Not able to find anything...C&Gautoparts has an intake gasket but does it matter if it fir a 2V??? I have a 4V for my 239Y
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,958
Likes: 105
From: Houston
If all you need is a gasket I would get some gasket material and make my own it isnt that hard. I did that for an oil pump to engine gasket since I couldnt get one. Cut out a small square sit it in place and used a hammer and lightly tapped around the edges, it will cut the gasket and if your using a ball peen hammer use the ball end for where there are holes in the middle for bolts and such it will cut those out also.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 4
From: Southern Oregon
It shouldnt make any difference on the 2V vs 4V regarding intake manifold gaskets. I may have an extra set to fit the earlier motors.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
From: Bend, Oregon
really! that would be great!...My truck has a running 1954 239Y
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Hey guys, new question.
I know earlier in the thread, wild.bunch made mention of the different styles of timing cover for the truck and car models. Will this make a difference in the damper as well. So far, I seem to have gotten the damper almost all the way on, but it is about 1/2 inch to far out when compared to the water pump pulley. No matter what I've done, I can't seem to get it to actually seat the last little bit to match. Would the timing covers make this difference?
I have the part number off the cover that is on there and it is EBV-6059-G and the water pump number is ECE-8505-B if that helps sort it out.
Thanks
I know earlier in the thread, wild.bunch made mention of the different styles of timing cover for the truck and car models. Will this make a difference in the damper as well. So far, I seem to have gotten the damper almost all the way on, but it is about 1/2 inch to far out when compared to the water pump pulley. No matter what I've done, I can't seem to get it to actually seat the last little bit to match. Would the timing covers make this difference?
I have the part number off the cover that is on there and it is EBV-6059-G and the water pump number is ECE-8505-B if that helps sort it out.
Thanks
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 4
From: Southern Oregon
I can offer one small bit of info. Look at the front of the pulley/damper crank bore, and see if some moron in the past tried installing the assembly with a hammer. I have a damper that someone did that to, and it will not go fully onto the crank snout because its ID has been decreased from the hammer blows.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2008
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Hey 46,
Could you explain a bit clearer, I don't follow what you are talking about. do you mean check the damper to see if the inner bore that goes over the crank end is not the same all the way through?
Could you explain a bit clearer, I don't follow what you are talking about. do you mean check the damper to see if the inner bore that goes over the crank end is not the same all the way through?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 4
From: Southern Oregon
When I am looking at the front of the damper, around the perimeter of the crank bore, there are hammer marks from someone trying to drive the damper onto the crankshaft with a hammer. That resulted in deformation of the iron, effectively decreasing the bore enough out where the large washer seats, that the damper will not go on completely. I can feel the ridge created by the hammering on the inside of the bore with fingers. In this case the damper is mostly scrap metal, since it would have to be machined before being rebuilt.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2008
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hmm... the damper here looks pretty clean, although it may have been repainted by damper doc when the worked it over. Like I said, I only need another 1/2 in to get it lined up with the other pulleys, which is why I was wondering if there were more than one type. I need to run to the hardware store and grab one more bolt that's slightly longer than the stock one, as it only gets a few threads on before it hits the damper. I'm really hoping that my problem is just I bottomed out the one I had, and need something a little bit shorter to finish it off.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 4
From: Southern Oregon
hmm... the damper here looks pretty clean, although it may have been repainted by damper doc when the worked it over. Like I said, I only need another 1/2 in to get it lined up with the other pulleys, which is why I was wondering if there were more than one type. I need to run to the hardware store and grab one more bolt that's slightly longer than the stock one, as it only gets a few threads on before it hits the damper. I'm really hoping that my problem is just I bottomed out the one I had, and need something a little bit shorter to finish it off.
When installing a damper I use a combination of extra long bolt and shims to get it going. Shims being an extra oil pickup tube to oil pump nut plus some washers. Then when the damper is pretty far along the long bolt is exchanged for the stock washer and bolt. It is one of those thing I just do and is difficult to recall in print.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2008
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239's do, I believe. If you recall, this is for a 292 I am replacing it with. I think all the discussion under the 239 rebuild heading is probably throwing everyone off. I may go ahead and let this thread die and open a new one with a more specific heading if I continue to have questions.
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