96 F350 7.3 Crew Cab and fuel
#1
96 F350 7.3 Crew Cab and fuel
OK. So I am mad! I buy my diesel truck and the fuel prices go from a $1.30 below gas to $1.50 (or more) above gas. Now my truck gets 13 to 18 mpg. I can not afford to run her. Does anyone know what (if anything) I can do to get my mpg up to or over 20 mpg?
I know, wishful thinking on my part...
I check the tire pressure, change the oil, fix the trans and replaced the small down pipe with a 3 inch pipe. I will be putting a 4 inch stainless pipe on soon (as long as my wife is not looking). But really, where do I go for better mileage?
Anyone have a proven idea?
Bio-diesel is an option, but making the stuff and keeping it fluid is the hard part. I know a guy that starts his truck with regular diesel, then he heates the tank in his truck bed (filled with the bio-diesel) and away he goes.
So let me know what everyone thinks.
I know, wishful thinking on my part...
I check the tire pressure, change the oil, fix the trans and replaced the small down pipe with a 3 inch pipe. I will be putting a 4 inch stainless pipe on soon (as long as my wife is not looking). But really, where do I go for better mileage?
Anyone have a proven idea?
Bio-diesel is an option, but making the stuff and keeping it fluid is the hard part. I know a guy that starts his truck with regular diesel, then he heates the tank in his truck bed (filled with the bio-diesel) and away he goes.
So let me know what everyone thinks.
#2
First of all, Welcome to FTE.
Train your right foot to act like there is an egg under it...braking too. I have the same truck as yours (4x4, 4:10 axles) and can get 19-20 MPG if my right foot stays under control. 22MPG was my best.
Get rid of all unnecessary weight
Keep the fluids/filters fresh
Keep the tires inflated to the maximum.
Keep the engine below 2K RPM.
IF you have a boost gage try to keep the boost under 10psi while accelerating.
4x4? unlock the front hubs.
Some custom burned chips will give better mileage but the right foot will prevail.
Train your right foot to act like there is an egg under it...braking too. I have the same truck as yours (4x4, 4:10 axles) and can get 19-20 MPG if my right foot stays under control. 22MPG was my best.
Get rid of all unnecessary weight
Keep the fluids/filters fresh
Keep the tires inflated to the maximum.
Keep the engine below 2K RPM.
IF you have a boost gage try to keep the boost under 10psi while accelerating.
4x4? unlock the front hubs.
Some custom burned chips will give better mileage but the right foot will prevail.
#4
Ya, intake exhaust, and chip are your best bets for mods.
One thing that must be discussed here is the difference between Waste Veggie oil (WVO) and biodiesel.
WVO is used oil from the fryer to the tank, with a little filtering. It is, IMHO a tad less reliable. you have to heat it to lower the viscosity, so driving less than 10 miles, you probably wont even get to using it.
Biodiesel is WVO that has been filtered, heated and "converted" to a methyl-ester chain. this has a lower viscosity, and does not need heating unless it's below like 15F outside, and you can add a pour point additive to fix that. it's just like #2 in terms of use.
Good luck!
And if you decide to go to WVO or BD, i'd highly recommend Fabmandelux for all your questions. he usually hangs out in the alt. fuels section and is very knowledgeable.
One thing that must be discussed here is the difference between Waste Veggie oil (WVO) and biodiesel.
WVO is used oil from the fryer to the tank, with a little filtering. It is, IMHO a tad less reliable. you have to heat it to lower the viscosity, so driving less than 10 miles, you probably wont even get to using it.
Biodiesel is WVO that has been filtered, heated and "converted" to a methyl-ester chain. this has a lower viscosity, and does not need heating unless it's below like 15F outside, and you can add a pour point additive to fix that. it's just like #2 in terms of use.
Good luck!
And if you decide to go to WVO or BD, i'd highly recommend Fabmandelux for all your questions. he usually hangs out in the alt. fuels section and is very knowledgeable.
#5
OK. So I am mad! I buy my diesel truck and the fuel prices go from a $1.30 below gas to $1.50 (or more) above gas. Now my truck gets 13 to 18 mpg. I can not afford to run her. Does anyone know what (if anything) I can do to get my mpg up to or over 20 mpg?
I know, wishful thinking on my part...
I check the tire pressure, change the oil, fix the trans and replaced the small down pipe with a 3 inch pipe. I will be putting a 4 inch stainless pipe on soon (as long as my wife is not looking). But really, where do I go for better mileage?
Anyone have a proven idea?
Bio-diesel is an option, but making the stuff and keeping it fluid is the hard part. I know a guy that starts his truck with regular diesel, then he heates the tank in his truck bed (filled with the bio-diesel) and away he goes.
So let me know what everyone thinks.
I know, wishful thinking on my part...
I check the tire pressure, change the oil, fix the trans and replaced the small down pipe with a 3 inch pipe. I will be putting a 4 inch stainless pipe on soon (as long as my wife is not looking). But really, where do I go for better mileage?
Anyone have a proven idea?
Bio-diesel is an option, but making the stuff and keeping it fluid is the hard part. I know a guy that starts his truck with regular diesel, then he heates the tank in his truck bed (filled with the bio-diesel) and away he goes.
So let me know what everyone thinks.
jrc
#6
Unless you find a really good price on the SS exhaust I would save the dough and just put on a quality Aluminized steel one. Then change out your intake to open it up (6637 filter mod as mentioned). Then get hold of Tony Wildman Sorry don't have his contact info just do a search here or google and get some custom programs for your truck....I have the same truck with 3:55 gears with ZF 5 and regularly get over 20 mpg and have had as high as 24.5. Mind you this is with Canadian (imperial gallons).....You could also try mixing in 2 stroke oil (low ash) at a rate of 1 oz per gallon some see a couple miles per gain.....
jrc
jrc
#7
No, diesel fuel. Some have found that it helps with mileage, and it's a good lubrication additive for the fuel systems and the upper cylinders of the older diesel engines. It is recommended to use the marine grade because it has less ash in it. I have never used it, but there was a study done a while ago with most of the lubrication additives people were using. They even tested some non conventional stuff such as 2-cycle oil, motor oil, and some others. The 2-cycle oil did quite well. If I can find it I'll post it. John
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#9
I have one more issue. I see some people are saying to "change out your intake to open it up (6637 filter mod as mentioned)". Here is my question, I have a stock air ram box that I opened the front up to allow more air in. Why would I replace a better system with one that pulls air from inside the engine compartment? I am really not knocking what you are saying, I just thought air ram was the better of the two systems.
Ok.. Fire away!
Thanks.
John T
Ok.. Fire away!
Thanks.
John T
#10
John, the stock filter doesn't flow much air, and the airbox is notorious for leaking and letting dust through. The 6637 flows a TON of air and will keep dust out of your intake. You can build a cold air setup pretty easy for one too if you wanted, I'm going to try to rig one up on my 99. Plus, you can send an email to a member here (filtercovers@gmail.com) and get a sweet looking cover for the 6637 filter, similar to this one:
#11
I have one more issue. I see some people are saying to "change out your intake to open it up (6637 filter mod as mentioned)". Here is my question, I have a stock air ram box that I opened the front up to allow more air in. Why would I replace a better system with one that pulls air from inside the engine compartment? I am really not knocking what you are saying, I just thought air ram was the better of the two systems.
Ok.. Fire away!
Thanks.
John T
Ok.. Fire away!
Thanks.
John T
The stock air box is NOT a better system. Like superduty4x4 said, they leak dirt past the filter...especailly if you have a K&N filter (Bad fit).
Drawing air from the engine compartment is not a big issue if you leave the snorkle over the battery in place. I've monitored the intake air temp rolling down the road and I see ambient air temps. It climbs while stopped at a light though but drops pretty quick when you get rolling again.
#12
jrc
#13
When I say I opened up my air box, I meant to say I trimmed the plastic around the opening. I did this at the recommendation of Diesel Joe (a local MBRP Dealer) who sells air in-take kits. He states that it has been proven on a dyno time and again that trimming the unnecessary plastic from the opening will allow more air into the engine. As for the filter, he says to replace it with a green (?) filter. I assume that there is only one “Green Filter” that is sold. Again, I am only going by what I was told. It would seem to me that if he sells then then he would sell one to me. So what is correct?
John T
John T
#14
GREEN IS GARBAGE! i had more green airfilters blowing dirt by than anything else. they are a knock off of k&n. horrific results on every truck i ever had come through the doors. one guy dusted 2 brand new 6.0's using that junk. yes that s right 2, i replaced the first under warrenty (under 10k) and told him to not put that fitler back in or else the warrenty was void. he did not listen and came back again in another few miles. the dirt was so bad you could wipe it out of the intake and the turbo blades looked like they ate a bird. whatever you buy DO NOT BUY A GREEN!