97' F-350 Cali 460 Cranks/Won't Start
#1
97' F-350 Cali 460 Cranks/Won't Start
Hello Everyone!
Very new here, but would be very grateful if anyone can help me out. I have a 1997 F-350 with the V8 460 and it is a California truck with all of the emissions junk. I discovered a small oil leak so I decided to change the valve cover gaskets. Nightmare of a job due to the egr tube. I ended up snapping the egr tube from the 60 degree elbow attached to the manifold. I managed to get the elbow out of the manifold by grinding with a special cone shaped fitting. Unfortunately, I got into some of the threads on the manifold, but the new elbow fitting threaded in with no issues. Got EVERYTHING back together and took my time. Needed to replace the egr valve gasket and bolted everything back on. Along the way, many of the colored hard plastic vacuum lines were breaking so I ended up replacing most of them with rubber windshield washer hose. Quick side note-due to the grinding, metal dust/shavings were everywhere. After pinning everything up, hop on the truck to start it....cranks, cranks, cranks and cranks even more-does not turn over/start. I am at a complete loss what it could be. Prior to me starting this job, the truck ran PERFECT with no issues.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
Very new here, but would be very grateful if anyone can help me out. I have a 1997 F-350 with the V8 460 and it is a California truck with all of the emissions junk. I discovered a small oil leak so I decided to change the valve cover gaskets. Nightmare of a job due to the egr tube. I ended up snapping the egr tube from the 60 degree elbow attached to the manifold. I managed to get the elbow out of the manifold by grinding with a special cone shaped fitting. Unfortunately, I got into some of the threads on the manifold, but the new elbow fitting threaded in with no issues. Got EVERYTHING back together and took my time. Needed to replace the egr valve gasket and bolted everything back on. Along the way, many of the colored hard plastic vacuum lines were breaking so I ended up replacing most of them with rubber windshield washer hose. Quick side note-due to the grinding, metal dust/shavings were everywhere. After pinning everything up, hop on the truck to start it....cranks, cranks, cranks and cranks even more-does not turn over/start. I am at a complete loss what it could be. Prior to me starting this job, the truck ran PERFECT with no issues.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
#2
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#3
Thank you for the welcome and reply!
My dad was a mechanic for 45 years-passed away in June. I picked up many things along the way, but not everything of course.
How do I check for spark?
I'm not sure how I would have disconnected the fuel-any thoughts on mow please let me know.
I live in PA, but bought it as a California truck.
Thanks again!
My dad was a mechanic for 45 years-passed away in June. I picked up many things along the way, but not everything of course.
How do I check for spark?
I'm not sure how I would have disconnected the fuel-any thoughts on mow please let me know.
I live in PA, but bought it as a California truck.
Thanks again!
#4
Pull a plug, put the wire back on it and lay it on the manifold or block. Have someone turn the engine over with the key--you should see a nice fat blue spark.
If not, check the wiring for the ignition.
Fuel lines would have been memorable, so check wiring near your repair or anywhere you may have laid a hand, tool, foot or beer.
If not, check the wiring for the ignition.
Fuel lines would have been memorable, so check wiring near your repair or anywhere you may have laid a hand, tool, foot or beer.
#5
#6
Post a few pics of the engine
The smart folks on here might just see what you left unplugged
Not a lot on those old 460's to screw you
Check all the basics, do you hear the fuel pump run?
You may have inadvertently tripped the inertia sensor?
The distributor is plugged in?
It is not backfiring right?
If you pulled all the spark plugs out, did you replace them?
Possibly with the wrong ones?
Double check all of your work and check the firing order
The smart folks on here might just see what you left unplugged
Not a lot on those old 460's to screw you
Check all the basics, do you hear the fuel pump run?
You may have inadvertently tripped the inertia sensor?
The distributor is plugged in?
It is not backfiring right?
If you pulled all the spark plugs out, did you replace them?
Possibly with the wrong ones?
Double check all of your work and check the firing order
The following users liked this post:
#7
Post a few pics of the engine
The smart folks on here might just see what you left unplugged
Not a lot on those old 460's to screw you
Check all the basics, do you hear the fuel pump run?
You may have inadvertently tripped the inertia sensor?
The distributor is plugged in?
It is not backfiring right?
If you pulled all the spark plugs out, did you replace them?
Possibly with the wrong ones?
Double check all of your work and check the firing order
The smart folks on here might just see what you left unplugged
Not a lot on those old 460's to screw you
Check all the basics, do you hear the fuel pump run?
You may have inadvertently tripped the inertia sensor?
The distributor is plugged in?
It is not backfiring right?
If you pulled all the spark plugs out, did you replace them?
Possibly with the wrong ones?
Double check all of your work and check the firing order
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#8
So look to see if the distributor and the coil are plugged in
Doubtful that your TFI module took a dump right at this moment
Check key on power to the coil red wire
If checking spark at the plug, need to inspect cap and rotor for arcing
Sometimes the rotor gives up and spark shoots right to ground thru the rotor into the distributor shaft
Also some of the older caps had a big BB in the middle, they would get loose and not let spark from the rotor hit the plugs
You have a fender mounted TFI module by the left hood hinge right?
The TFI, the coil, or the stator in the distributor is the failed part for a no spark in your case
Doubtful that your TFI module took a dump right at this moment
Check key on power to the coil red wire
If checking spark at the plug, need to inspect cap and rotor for arcing
Sometimes the rotor gives up and spark shoots right to ground thru the rotor into the distributor shaft
Also some of the older caps had a big BB in the middle, they would get loose and not let spark from the rotor hit the plugs
You have a fender mounted TFI module by the left hood hinge right?
The TFI, the coil, or the stator in the distributor is the failed part for a no spark in your case
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#9
So look to see if the distributor and the coil are plugged in
Doubtful that your TFI module took a dump right at this moment
Check key on power to the coil red wire
If checking spark at the plug, need to inspect cap and rotor for arcing
Sometimes the rotor gives up and spark shoots right to ground thru the rotor into the distributor shaft
Also some of the older caps had a big BB in the middle, they would get loose and not let spark from the rotor hit the plugs
You have a fender mounted TFI module by the left hood hinge right?
The TFI, the coil, or the stator in the distributor is the failed part for a no spark in your case
Doubtful that your TFI module took a dump right at this moment
Check key on power to the coil red wire
If checking spark at the plug, need to inspect cap and rotor for arcing
Sometimes the rotor gives up and spark shoots right to ground thru the rotor into the distributor shaft
Also some of the older caps had a big BB in the middle, they would get loose and not let spark from the rotor hit the plugs
You have a fender mounted TFI module by the left hood hinge right?
The TFI, the coil, or the stator in the distributor is the failed part for a no spark in your case
The distributor and coil are plugged in.
Power to red coil wire.
Yes, fender mounted TFI module by the left hood hinge.
The coil shows power so I am down to the TFI or the distributor. My hunch is something with the distributor. I took the cap off the distributor and it does spin.
#10
You are sure welcome
So, the other wire on the coil, the green one should blink when cranking if the stator in the distributor is working
The coil wire at the coil should be checked for white corrosion on the high output or secondary post
You have checked for spark down the line too, like out of the coil right?
The coil wires go bad sometimes
You can substitute a plug wire in place of the coil wire to test
So, the other wire on the coil, the green one should blink when cranking if the stator in the distributor is working
The coil wire at the coil should be checked for white corrosion on the high output or secondary post
You have checked for spark down the line too, like out of the coil right?
The coil wires go bad sometimes
You can substitute a plug wire in place of the coil wire to test
#12
I checked and did find a coil fuse. It looked good. Replaced the TMI. Still no start and I’m not very surprised. I attached two pictures. The clip I’m holding plugs into the coil. I used a test light from the battery and it lights up to the red wire but not the white/yellow wire. Should it?
#14