WHOA there cowboy, dont shoot the messenger!

You do not need to add injectors to the truck motor. Just call and talk to Jody at DP-Tuner. he can add a true 100HP Safely without sacrificing engine durability/reliability. Have him put you an 60tow tune(for over 8K trailer), an 80 econo tune, and an 80tow (for under 8K trailer) and you will be MORE than satisfied with the outcome.

PS as far as injectors go, dont try to rebuild your own, too many folks have tried, and windowed their blocks. go ahead and spring for the remanned or new injectors. single shot injectors use less oil. the HPOP (high pressure oil pump) supplies the intesifying force to atomize the fuel for a cleaner burn. a single shot injector runs at a lower PSI than the stock split shot injectors. you can actually gain mileage by going to a single shot injector, but you must have the PCM reflashed with tuning for a single shot for it to idle correctly. singles are also noisier. split shot injectors = a small pilot shot of fuel is injected into the cylinder before the big charge is released. this is done to quieten the engine. split shots use more high pressure oil because they are delivering two shots of fuel for each power stroke of the engine.

 

OK you know the next question . would you happen to have a number for jody so I could contact him?THANKS

 

Dp Tuner
the number is on the site....

 

Hey BRANDON
Maybe I can help some of the other guys on this site!
I have had 2 F550 trucks burn because of a very simple problem.When the motors are replaced in a f series vehicle in most cases when putting the motor back in you have the chance of tearing the insulation at the firewall at the down pipe,when this happens the heat from the down pipe can heat up a bolt on the firewall that holds the heater ducts and cause the plastic to catch fire.
The only way I know how to see the bolt is to take out the radio and look directly down in line with the center of the radio opening on a downward angle and you will see a I think a vacume pod for the heater ducts ,the bolt that attaches that to the firewall lines up perfectly with the back of the turbo where it attaches with 2 bolts to the down pipe .When this bolt gets exposed and the heat from the exhaust can super heat it ,it then transfers the heat to the plastic it mounts to the wall and causes a fire.This is in the 1999-2002 F550 series trucks that I know for certain from fires in my own trucks.It only takes a very short time for the heat to place the plastic on fire. I am not sure the exhaust is configured the same in all the Fseries trucks ,or if all the dash mounting points for this duct are the same but most of the guys you know are playing with motors and if the remove one and replace it I would hate for them to learn the lesson that I have learned the way I have.I would think ford would configure most of the 7.3 cabs the same way.I don't know what to call the assembly that is mounted to the fire wall but I know for a fact that if these guys start adding 4" and 5" exhaust on these trucks the chance of heating up that bolt gets much greater .I do not know a lot about these trucks but what I do know I have had to learn the hard way,and I hope that you can put out some kind of advisery to help other people from having their trucks distroyed. And like I said before ,thanks for the help and info on the E350 engine swap. I have a intercooler coming and we will see just how hard it is going to be to install one on a E350. Get back to me and let me know if you were aware of the fire problem with this bolt.

 

Dan, Thanks for the info on the fire problem, I was not aware of it.
Take lots of pictures of your motor swap and IC install and post em up on here so other guys can see it.
Did you talk to Jody at DP?

 

Brandon :Give me your thoughts on this .
How about I run a van turbo w/an IC w/ the F350 intercooler manifold,on the stock F350 motor and put it in this van. Because I am allways towing heavy ,and I will have 355 gears and I am trying to have economy ,and as funny as it sounds trying to make this installation simple.
That way I don't have to make up wiring adapters for the length of the plug being different between the engine harness and the firewall harness which come out on oposite sides .And I am going to put a 2" body lift on this van which will do several things 1.allow me to put in the allison trans,2.give me some space to get the IC lines in,and give me some additional airflow.and last but not least mabe give me some rooom to work on this motor while it is in the truck!!!! Just looking for another opinion as to weather I am going to have problems with that set up as far as the running of the motor.and I really would like to have the extra HP .I am not sure if after I get jody to flash the PCM weather or not I have gained ,If I use the van turbo instead of the F350 turbo,but the guys that are towing seem to like the van turbo better than the F turbo.I am not one to jump on the truck from the get go ,that is how I got 540,miles out of the last van without replacing the engine ,trans or rear.I also have 355 gears fo economy going in this van ,because they worked well in the last van .I have already installed a Hydro boost brake set up on this van because I am just as worried about stopping as I am going,and sometimes trailer brakes are not the best.
See what happens when you answer somones questions ,THEY COME UP WITH MORE!
THANKS GUY!!!!!!!!!

 

I have never heard of putting an Allison Tranny behind a PSD why don't just get a performance tranny from someone like Brains Truck Shop ? Don't forget once you figure out how to get the IC in your still going to have to connect it in and out of the turbo I think thats really going to be ruff .

 

dave sorry about the smart answer with the tranny! But everyone always has problems with the ford trans ,and just because you never heard of an allison behind a PSD doesn't mean with some good engineering it cant be done .And just because nobody else did it doesn't mean it can't be done it might just mean that it was to much trouble for someone else.A lot of the equipment on a lot of the trucks in this forum wouldn't be on other peoples trucks if somebody hadn't tried it first an said it worked.If I can't do it with the equipment I have at my disposal than I will get back on here and tell people where the problems are and why I couldn't put the IC on the van.
As for the allison trans well we have already done the research there and the only thing I have to do is raise up the body for the bell housing clearance and the hose fittings.Which like I said will give me more room for the IC and the 4" down pipe,pluss give me more room to work on the motor while in the truck and give more airflow over the engine,You can laugh if you want but by raising the body I may just have enough airflow so that this might be the first diesel van that doesn't have a problem with heat causing either a casset player or CD player to heat up .I just am not into this computer motor stuff but the practical equipment side of this I can handle when it comes to removing all the add on coolers and restriction most people put in front of their motor and wonder why they have heat problems.
Just to help cool this van I have done the following
1.trans pan w/cooling tubes
2.remote underframe fan cooled trans cooler
3.remote P/S cooler under the frame
4.removed the trans cooling from the radiator so it doesn't increase the heat to the motor.
Now when I add the IC to the front of the AC condenser and the radiator
I have done all I know how to lower the heat to the motor.With the addition of A diamond 4" exhaust I have got to have a pretty good handle on the EGT problem.
BUT I will still listen to all the advise I can get because there are a lot smarter people then me out there .some other people just don't do much more than go to the store and buy the add ons and say they have a custom truck.I owned a custom shop for several years back in the 70's there isn't much that makes me run the other way as far as a challange.
Thanks for anybodies input!!!!!!!!!!!

 

did the put allisons behind the IH busses and trucks with the 444E

 

You can do most anything with enough money and time.

 

Hey guys. I talked to diverdan on the phone today and he's got most of the logistics worked out. What he is really trying to decide is whether or not he wants to go with the van turbo or the truck turbo. If he goes with the van turbo what exactly is he going to need to do to make it work with the intercooler turbo pedestal-wise much like some of those on here have done on their trucks. Also what exactly are the benefits of the van turbo vs. the truck turbo. Like I said, I talked to him for a while on the phone today and these were the questions he had. Jim, I hope this helps to clarify what you are wanting to know.

 

None of this will help the EGT problem(except for the larger exhaust) and the 3.55 gears will also raise your EGTS. A van turbo has a very large drive housing(the side the exhaust goes in) and it takes a lot of fuel to move that wheel inside the housing. with the van turbo and an IC and the 3.55s you will have a sluggish truck(read: the turbo aint really gonna light untill 2000RPMs) Now more fuel means more EGT. the problem you are going to have is LUGGING the engine. you will not have enough fuel on the lowend(unless Jody custom tunes your PCM for it) with the 3.55 gears the engine will be out of its powerband at cruising speeds and when you give it the go peddle you will see your EGTS rocket towards 1300* (this is precisely the problem I was having untill Jody live tuned my truck.) I have 3.73 stock gears but am running 34" tires so if you do the math it puts me at about 3.55 ratio. I towed my 11.5K# 5th wheel to Tennessee a couple of weeks ago, and there were many times i had to back off the pedal, or turn off the cruise control B/C a small hill would shoot my EGTS way up over 1200*. I told Jody what it was doing during my live tuning session and he adjusted it and now its like it should be.

I know you want to K.I.S.S. but with the 3.55 gears I think the .84 turbo on the truck mptor would make you happier in the long run.

 

THANKS AGAIN !!!!!
Pardon if I was a little shakey at first because ,I had people giving advise that didn't know how to do the math and I was trying to pick out the right thing to do out of allthe advise.like I said I had a 97E350 extended Econoline W/a high top 7.3 non super duty factory stock that was ordered in with 355 gears , I was verry happy with that truck accross the board ,good economy,bad front tire ware,horrible rear drum brakes,enough power to tow.But I had 540,000 on it when I flipped it and never replaced the ENG,TRANS,or REAR . This is why I bought a used van ,this time a superduty w/4w disc brakes ,but it ended up with a blown motor and the motor I bought came out of a F350 that was IC ed .when I read the valve covers and saw that the van had 215 HP and the F350 had 250 HP I was soooo happy until I took a look at things on the F350 motor that were not on the van motor ,then I was totally lost !!!!SO I would like to build a impossable truck! one that has dependability ,power for towing,and economy.Almost Every used van you see for sale has had to replace te tranny which is why I started to research a Allison trans ,and I found a allison person who really knew their ****.I just needed to gain a little room for the bell housing & the plumbing,this I can do by a 2" BODY lift kit ,which will do a lot of things ,most of which give me some room in that tunnel they call a engine compartment,and give some additional air flow over the engine.like I said guys I don't know a lot about the computerized 7.3 stuff but I try to plan ahead and eliminate future problems,that is why the overboard on the cooling equipment and the IC .Thanks for the help everbody ,it is a hell of a learning experience!

 

Anyone out there know a mfg. of a remote oil filter set up that would screw into the original oil filter set up and then cap that .Then come off with hoses to mount the remote
What I am trying to do is eliminate the oil filter running down the side of the pan ,so I can cut the base of the pan and install a wide section to the bottom with cooling tubes installed for additional oil cooling. Thanks for letting me pick your brains!

 

ams-oil sells one