11-12-2014, 11:42 AM
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Front 4x4 Hub Removal / Rotor change out
#61
01-21-2012, 12:10 AM
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Location: Portage Des Sioux, Mo
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Supposed to be able to split race with chisel, but I have never had luck with that. I use a rotozip to cut race as much as I can then use chisel to finish it. Spindle is probably scarred. If it is may not be the best thng to do but I have in my poor days CAREFULLY filed spindle clean and reused, as long as the seal race is clean. 
#62
01-21-2012, 08:27 AM
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im gonna have a friend come look at it. when he picks up the rotor to go turn it.
i think the race is still in the rotor, just the bearing is on the spindle. i managed to hammer it on further up the spindle so atleast now i know its not welded itself on there. and i bought a new bearing and seal, so i dont care if i break it at this point
i think the race is still in the rotor, just the bearing is on the spindle. i managed to hammer it on further up the spindle so atleast now i know its not welded itself on there. and i bought a new bearing and seal, so i dont care if i break it at this point
#63
01-21-2012, 11:19 AM
#64
02-28-2015, 01:54 AM
You should have a Dana 60.
Your best bet is your local parts house for a replacement rotor. You want to stick to a name brand. There is some foreign stuff being offered that is junk right out of the box.
To replace the rotor, here is a basic rundown:
1. Jack up, put on jack stands and remove tire (obviously)
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove bolts holding locking hub body to hub
4. Remove snap ring from end of axle, Remove hub retainer ring from ID of wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver or pick to start it out of the groove. Remove the hub body
5. Remove the outer bearing lock nut, lock washer and the inner adjusting nut
You need the special socket for this OTC #7158 or similar
6. Remove the outer bearing and then the hub
7. To separate the rotor from the hub, use a soft faced hammer to drive the studs out
8. Turn the hub over and set the new rotor in place. Put the studs back in.
9. I will usually use an air hammer to drive the studs back in. Alternating in a circular pattern. If you don't have access, you can use a large diameter punch or another hammer on the back of the studs.
10. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings and replace the wheel seals. Pull the spindles and check the bearings and seals in the back of them. If they are not rusted, slab some grease on them and put back together.
11. Install the hub and rotor assy, and the outer bearing and bearing adjustment nut.
Adjustment:
I always adjust wheel bearings by feel. But this is the factory procedure
1. Tighten the inner nut to 50 ft-lbs while turning the hub back and forth to seat the bearings.
2. Back off the nut, tighten to 30-40 ft-lbs while turning the hub again.
3. Back off 90 deg. Install the lock washer so that the holes line up on the tang on the adj nut, tighten slightly as needed to line up.
4. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 175 ft-lbs.
Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.
Jason
Your best bet is your local parts house for a replacement rotor. You want to stick to a name brand. There is some foreign stuff being offered that is junk right out of the box.
To replace the rotor, here is a basic rundown:
1. Jack up, put on jack stands and remove tire (obviously)
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove bolts holding locking hub body to hub
4. Remove snap ring from end of axle, Remove hub retainer ring from ID of wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver or pick to start it out of the groove. Remove the hub body
5. Remove the outer bearing lock nut, lock washer and the inner adjusting nut
You need the special socket for this OTC #7158 or similar
6. Remove the outer bearing and then the hub
7. To separate the rotor from the hub, use a soft faced hammer to drive the studs out
8. Turn the hub over and set the new rotor in place. Put the studs back in.
9. I will usually use an air hammer to drive the studs back in. Alternating in a circular pattern. If you don't have access, you can use a large diameter punch or another hammer on the back of the studs.
10. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings and replace the wheel seals. Pull the spindles and check the bearings and seals in the back of them. If they are not rusted, slab some grease on them and put back together.
11. Install the hub and rotor assy, and the outer bearing and bearing adjustment nut.
Adjustment:
I always adjust wheel bearings by feel. But this is the factory procedure
1. Tighten the inner nut to 50 ft-lbs while turning the hub back and forth to seat the bearings.
2. Back off the nut, tighten to 30-40 ft-lbs while turning the hub again.
3. Back off 90 deg. Install the lock washer so that the holes line up on the tang on the adj nut, tighten slightly as needed to line up.
4. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 175 ft-lbs.
Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.
Jason
#65
03-01-2015, 04:47 PM
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