So here is what you do for that, (the F-150 has the same thing because of ABS, very rare on these trucks) Anyway, you should be able to get a three jaw puller on that sucker and secure that rotor with the hub in it and press that ABS piece off...save that piece because if you dotn have a new one with the rotor, you gotta put it back in. Its not hard to put on, i recommend some sort of easy-off spray stuff or something...

 

Tecgod - its a frankenvehicle I am discovering. Its actually a 2000 e350 that supposedly had a Quigley conversion. However Quigley has no record of the vehicle, and suppose the front end work was done by someone else. So the lineage of the front axle assembly is in question. I just want to replace the rotor and brake pads, lol.

The guy at Quigley told me how to disassemble the hub. He's the one who told me he thought the gear was 95-97 F350, a google search led me to this thread. Save the tone ring thing this thread was spot on in terms of removal. I'll look into it - a quick in the garage, I don't have anything that can press that thing off. I'll take it to a local machine shop if I have to, but sheesh! Its always something, eh?

 

Arnie thanks, I can't budge that thing with anything I have - I can't even figure out how to get leverage on it. I'll think on it and take it to a machine shop tomorrow if something doesn't occur to me. Cheers

 

we got an Arnie in here?

 

Opps sorry Aune163rd!

 

oh hi lol...welcome to FTE...this is the 7.3 & 6.9l Diesel engines that Ford used from 1983-1994.5....these engines are still on the road and can keep up with the strokes from 1994-2001 now i would say, not fast, but can pull all day long for its age...

 

OK so I did a **** poor job of trying to press off the tone ring and I goobered up the rear seal doing it. So it was off to the shop for me anyway! They finished my botched job and charged me an hour's labor - fair enough. Anyway, thanks for the free advice in this thread, I found it very useful. Cheers

DMT

 

I wish my quest for rotor replacement on my 1997 F350 4x4 was so straight forward; my wheel bearing locknut is not a quad notched dual locknut configuration like the ones shown, it has a single "wheel retainer nut" holding the outer bearing that was a pain in the @ss to locate any info on. I finally found info and a picture at the following link:
http://warn.iwebcat.com/imgVD/WAR/32722A2-pn32720.pdf

The proper socket tool is a 2 3/4" thinwall socket sold by Autozone for $14.99 made by Performance Tool Part# W83246. Don't buy a standard 2 3/4" socket it's too big(I tried it), the right socket looks like an oil filter wrench.

 

Hi, I have a quagmire with my front end... truck has been on jack stands for a few days and is starting to get pissed off at me :-)

I posted this to another forum and got no solution... This post deals with exactly the job I am having difficulty with... hope it's not too serious of a no-no to repost.

I have a 1997 F250, 4x4, Dana 50 front end, 7.5L Gas. Great truck... but now it seems to hate me.

I decided to change the front brakes; rotors and pads. While I had the whole thing apart, I decided why not change the bearings too.

Took the thing apart, everything went nicely. Changed the rotors, no problems. Bought new bearings (Timken 387A Inner & Timken LM104949 Outer), packed them with super duper grease, inserted the inner bearing in the hub and closed the whole thing up with a brand new grease seal.

Tried installing the hub on the shaft, and it won't slide in completely... it stops about 1.4 inch short. It's REALLY tight after that... I tried coaxing it in with a few taps here & there.... disaster it got so tight, wouldn't go in, and wouldn't come back out!!! I had to pull & yank, finally the grease seal came off, and I was able to pull the hub off... with the bearing still tightly attached to the shaft. I finally got it off with a lot of brutal persuasion, and well... destroyed the bearing in the process... No big deal they are not too expensive.

Pretty much the same deal on the other side. The bearings are identical to the old ones. Even the old ones can barely go on... When I took the whole thing apart, the hubs just slid right off, perfectly smoothly as I expected. Those original bearings that came off nicely, now barely fit, and when I get them on, they are hard to get off...

Whats going on? I feel like I'm in the twilight zone. According to Autozone website, they are the right bearings for my truck. AND that's what was there before.

Am I doing anything wrong?

If I decide to buy a bearing from another manufacturer... Which I would gladly do if it save me time & effort... Will I need to change the bearing races in the hubs? That sounds like a major PITA...

HELP Please!!! Anyone figures out my problem, I'll mail you a case of beer!

Thanks,

Martin

 

I hope I am not bringing this thread back from the dead (Thanks google) But I just wanted to give a big thank you for that PDF. Not that I can't remember how things go together but knowing what it looks like before you start is fantastic. Pretty simple easy job.

Oven for the hub. Race in the freeze works perfect. And a propane torch to get the race off worked like a charm.

 

Martin, I'm new to this forum, but have experienced your issue just recently. If your hub/bearing has had lots of miles, it would have been worn enough to come off. The new may not go on as it's tolerances are tighter. The spindle could have heat damage and could be out of round.

If you haven't already fixed this, take some 400 or greater sandpaper and clean up the surface of the spindle a little where the rear bearing will seat. Polish it with 1000 or higher when you know you can slide the hub on and off. These trucks have been around for some time and may have slight damage to the spindle. Not the best fix, but should keep you going, make sure to add sufficient grease to the spindle before completing.

 

ok a little help here. 92 f360 with a d60. drivers side rotor. so far: hub cap removed, hub gears removed, snap ring holding the gears in removed. both locknuts and washer removed, outer bearing removed.
all that i can see thats left is the rotor and inner bearing on the spindle. i have 1/4" of play sliding the rotor in and out but it doesnt want to move anymore past that.

 

im still stuck. i need this off to replace it. not to mention it needs to be driving by 2/1 to get it inspected
going off this:


76, lockout itself is off
74, c clip-ring is off
84, 85, 86 im not sure. i pulled out a whole assembly of gears and was at the outer bearing nuts after
81, 82, 83 were removed
64, removed

the only thing im not sure about is 75, i never found it. what does it clip to? am i missing it being ive taken everything down this far already?


this is my view right now. all i see is the inner bearing?

 

Stupid question... Did you take the brake caliper off??

Looks to me like you should have everything out of the hub that needs to come off. I think circlip 75 from the picture goes on the end of the axle-shaft. Its been a while since I was inside my hubs, so I can't remember for certain.

My only other guess is that the inner bearing is stuck on the spindle and thats holding it together. Try pulling harder?

 

yea the caliper is off. this was a brake job. pads were so bad the rotor was trashed.

i just managed to get it off 10min ago. now i know why it was so difficult. the bearing is stuck to the spindle so bad it stayed on there when the rotor popped off.
im hoping it wasnt neglect and the bearing isnt welded to the spindle....

i tried to pry on it but it wont move. any ideas on hwoto get the bearing off? i dont want to buy a new spindle...