Yes that is what I understood as the part you had trouble with.

My guess is the splines in the hub are messed up somehow.

Did you get it in all the way?
Like far enough for the lock ring to go in?

I would use a 1/4" thick steel plate about 8" square and drill holes for the cap screws to go through.

Then drill 4 - 3/8" holes outside the hub in the corners.
Use some bolts long enough for the head to rest on the rotor with a nut behind the plate on each bolt.
Then put the cap screws in , probably about as far in as they will go, but even so they are all resting on the plate and pulling.
Now tighten up the nuts against the plate and work around the four bolts making 1/4 turns with the nuts.

Those cap screws are rather hard, but they sure are little.

Good luck getting it out.

If the lock ring in in place, I don't think driving it would hurt.
After a bit of 4x4 driving it may actually help loosen it up.

If the lock ring is not in, the hub may pop out when the brakes heat the rotor and hub up, which would let dirt and dust in the bearings.

 

Ok, I am trying to get my rotors off of my "new" 89 F150. . . . Followed the instructions. . . My hub now looks like the second pic that was posted (thanks for teh pics by the way). I took the O ring off. . . Directions say that the hub should slide out after taking that ring off? Not mine. . . . help?

 

wjohn1980,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

There is a ring retainer around the inside of the hub and a c clip on the stub axle.

Both must be removed to get the lockout out of the hub.

 

I wanted to follow up with one more detail of my situation. I was able to get the final outer locking mechanism into the hub.

I purchased a cast iron plumbing flange that was close in diameter to the hub and ground it down to make a perfect tool for driving the locking mechanism in just far enough to put in the final outer locking ring.
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I measured the old and the new hub diameter and found that the new hub was indeed .004” smaller than the old hub which explains my problems. This was a PG Plus Raybestos rotor that I purchased – not their lowest grade. Made in China and shipped out of a warehouse in Detroit
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Dave, thanks for the great advice on the pulling mechanism. It is much more simple than what I was thinking and will probably work better.

 

Well, I just learned alot about redoing my bearing on this website. Yes, I recently put new bearings in and over tightened the adjustment nut (should have read this forum before hand). I burnt out the bearing on my first road trip. Now I am having troubles getting everything apart again. I finally got my adjustment nut off, which seemed to have been stuck on. Now i cannot get the hub off. The outer bearing is cooked in the hub and appeares to be stuck. I tried hooking my mini van onto the hub and pull it off, but this didn't work either. I'm now planning to get some torches and cut the outer bearing out. Anyone have this trouble before?

My truck is a 1995 Ford f-150 4x4, 4.9 L. Thanks for any help.

 

yes i just had to cut mine apart with a cutting torch
the bearing dried out then the rollers welded themselves to the inner race
take your time cut a little bit at a time
use a clean or brand new tip
i had to cut the race in to quarters
after i melted the rollers
and then use a bar to pound them out
i got lucky i was able to reuse the spindle
at the worst u will destroy it and have to get a new one
good luck!!!!

 

canadaford15,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

You might want to check some local salvage yards for spindles just in case.

If the inner bearing races are welded to the spindle you may have to replace them.
And the outer races may be welded to the hub.

 

Well, I tinkered with the stupid thing again trying to hammer the hub off without any luck. Just went and purchased some new torches, used hub and shaft. Cutting starts tomorrow. Got a welder friend coming over to help me cut.

Once I do get the hub off, is the inner bearing difficult to remove? Do I need any special tools to reinstall the inner bearing? or does it just slide on? According to the manual I have, it states that you simply slide the bearing into the inner cup and then slide on the hub and outer bearing and then the adjustment nut. Then do the bearing adjustment.

Anyways, thanks alot guys. I would be totally lost right now if it wasnt for this forum.

 

The races need to be pressed or driven into the hub.

The inner races should just slide on the spindle, but I have seen them get hot enough to actually weld the races to the spindle.

When that happens, I have seen about 40% of the spindles salvaged and still usable, but that leaves 60% that were junk.

Good luck on your venture.

 

Thanks for all the info shared in this forum. I just had one problem that I found an easier solution for.

I found pounding on the studs for 30 to 40 minutes with a soft faced mallet, and then some 2x4's and the mallet. And various other supports and pounding angles pretty frustrating. Specially since after 30 to 40 minutes, it looked like I hadn't budged a single lug as much as a micron.

So, I dug out my air hammer. The lugs are concave on the ends that I was pounding on, so I got a bit that would fit inside that concave section and applied the miracle of compressed air to it. 20 seconds later all 8 of the lugs were backed out, and a quick whack with the lumber and mallet on the back side of the hub popped it out of the rotor.

To put the studs back in the book recommends just putting the lugnuts back on and tightening in a crisscross fashion just like putting the rim back on. Seems to have worked just fine on mine.

As for the $20.00 tool from Autozone. That one is for a Dana 44 axle. I have a Dana 60 axle. I purchased the tool that said it worked on F250 4x4's from 3 different auto stores before I managed to pick up the $50.00 tool from Napa. Should have just gone to Napa first and saved all that time and gas money.

'93 F250 4x4 7.3 IDI (non-turbo) - 263,000 miles and still hauling 10k lbs down the road.

 

First post here.

I know this is an old thread, but try as I might I cannot seem to find (and remove) the lock ring for the manual the hub lock. So I am stuck. I don't know what I should 'pick out' to pull the hub lock and get at the innards.

Any info - parts diagrams, photos or text will be greatly appreciated.

Btw, I am removing the LF rotor from my '94 F350 7.3 crewcab. The inner surface is so eaten down that it's down to the ribs. I'll post a photo when I get it done.

 

Pretty sure once you remove the hex screws that hold the chrome cap over the manual locking hub, you should see a snap ring inside there that allows you to remove the switch mechanism, after that, then you use the special tool listed above to remove the rest of the hub.

 

The retaining ring rotates out from it's seat counterclockwise. If you run a small flat screwdriver around the edge clockwise you will be able to feel the end of the ring, like looking for the edge of a roll of tape but easier. Once you find it pry the edge up enough to grab onto it. I use a small pair of side cutters to hold it tight enough to rotate the ring out from its seat.

 

jollygreengiant,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

Snap ring on the stub axle in the center, and a round clip around the outside of the hub keeps the locking mechanisim in place under the locking hub caps.

You need the spanner socket to get the spindle nuts off.

 

Gents, Much thanks for all the help. Got her out intact and she is up and running again.